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Old 05-31-2016, 04:09 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Do you plan to leave the tire carrier in offroad? And if so what's the plan for recovery? Just pull it out and hook up to the hitch?
I do plan to leave it in for offroad. So far haven't needed recovery for myself and my girl don't get in much trouble yet. nothing I haven't been able to get her out of with some rock stacking or hoping on the back bumper. If it does come down to it I have a receiver hook I can swap places with the tire carrier. In the future I plan on making something so I don't have to remove it at all.
Old 05-31-2016, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 89limited_hero
I do plan to leave it in for offroad. So far haven't needed recovery for myself and my girl don't get in much trouble yet. nothing I haven't been able to get her out of with some rock stacking or hoping on the back bumper. If it does come down to it I have a receiver hook I can swap places with the tire carrier. In the future I plan on making something so I don't have to remove it at all.
I wheeled with a guy that had a receiver tube mounted 5-6"s to the left of the center receiver . With as good as you can fab you could just take one of these tubes and weld it on so that you still have a way to tow or can have a recovery point with out removing you carrier.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces.../Curt/E-9.html
Old 05-31-2016, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JandDGreens
I wheeled with a guy that had a receiver tube mounted 5-6"s to the left of the center receiver . With as good as you can fab you could just take one of these tubes and weld it on so that you still have a way to tow or can have a recovery point with out removing you carrier. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces.../Curt/E-9.html
then it could be off to the drivers side so it doesn't block so much rear window.
Old 06-01-2016, 06:56 AM
  #124  
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I don't mind it blocking the window, I can still see with my side mirrors and there is enough room on each side of the tire for good view when head checking.
Old 06-02-2016, 05:44 AM
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The reason for it is so you can tow a trailer and still have a spare. I only have a 31" tire right now, but I don't think a 33" tire will make it so I can't see either. You just don't see the person behind the wheel cursing at you if you aren't driving as aggressive as he is!
Old 06-10-2016, 07:48 AM
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Stupid Toyota filter fix is on its way. I ordered a jegs universal remote oil filter kit it's the cheapest and most complete kit I have found and unlike the rest of them out there it comes with 12' of hose instead of 5' or nothing.
Can't wait to get it installed on i will have no worries when I play in rocks about smashing oil filters.
Old 06-14-2016, 05:27 PM
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I picked up a cheap license plate light yesterday, the final resting place for the plate will be driver side lower corner on the hatch. Just need to paint a couple things, do a tiny bit of wiring and drill couple small holes.
Old 07-08-2016, 10:39 AM
  #128  
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Planning on some upgrades this weekend. Due to a leaking MC and booster maybe getting brake fluid inside. Going tomorrow to get a dual diaphragm booster with MC. Should be a straight forward swap since I have already swapped to 91+ stuff. Also going to install my remote oil filter kit now i have figured a location for it. I will mount it where the evap canister is since mine has been disconnected for a awhile now. The reason behind that is so I can still do a cowl snorkel at the top part of the firewall in that general area. I'll get some pic have I'm done.
Old 07-11-2016, 05:21 PM
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Got two out of three project done yesterday.
License plate mounted and light mounted and wired.
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Swapped to dual diaphragm booster only thing I need to modify was my lines and super glue a few washers to my brake switch. No rod modifications which I liked.
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One thing I did learn was that the 91+ MC lines to prop valve the fittings can flipped. The fittings in my porp valve were frozen in and I used vice grips to remove them.
Old 07-11-2016, 09:14 PM
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Yeah it is always good to just clamp on them with vise grips and break them loose so that you don't strip them with line wrenches. Learned that watching someone's u-tube video after I already made that mistake. Did you replace your lines going from the P-valve to the master cylinder? When I did mine I went to O'riellys auto parts the guy at the counter got a pre flared stick ($6) with the correct size fitting at both ends that worked going into the P-valve, so that all I had to do is cut it in half and flare the other end to fit the M-cylinder using the fittings the originally where on the old lines. Just had to us a wire to make some templates to follow.
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:16 PM
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opps did not see how you finished that. before I shared. My bad
I bet you like the way the brakes work now.
Old 07-11-2016, 11:38 PM
  #132  
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I do but it showed me that I need pads in front now too lol if it's not one thing it's another
Old 07-12-2016, 08:20 PM
  #133  
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My XJs' brakes were so sketchy that when I went to do my up-grade I decided to just do a complete overhaul on the front and rear brakes completely. New everything drums rotors calipers, every brake related part you could replace I did. I am very pleased with the way my brakes are working.
Old 07-14-2016, 11:53 AM
  #134  
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Since the swap brakes have been great but was having a metal grinding noise I thought since the braking power is better that my pads were worn but didn't notice it with the old set up. Then found this after showing up to work this morning.
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There is a home Depot real close to work so I'm going over there to get a replacement and fix it before I drive home.
Old 07-14-2016, 12:39 PM
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Just wasted my lunch break going to home Depot, they didn't have anything close in thread pitch in the size needed. Glad there is a specialty bolt place up the road. But have to wait till after work.


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