My 2wd XJ
#1067
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Did some work today. Did a oil change that was much needed. Also re welded up a sway bar mount. Here some pics. My angles don't look that bad.
#1070
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I wish you'd make an effort to fix it. It'd feel much better than stock steering.
It currently feel likes stock steering is because the angles are just as bad.
You'd enjoy it much more with just a little bit more work.
It currently feel likes stock steering is because the angles are just as bad.
You'd enjoy it much more with just a little bit more work.
#1071
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Even in that new pic they are still off?? It looks parallel to me.
#1072
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
The problem is that you have both of your heims almost completely maxed out.
I'd want it much more parallel to the ground.
This is mine. (Ignore the leak)
The only difference with mine is that I have high steer arms. You're not going to be able to get it that high on stock Dana 30 knuckles but it'd sure help if you put the tie rod over the knuckle and double shear with the drag link and put the pitman arm end of the drag link under the pitman arm. Then move your trac bar to match the drag link angle.
I plan to make my pitman arm double shear.
I'd want it much more parallel to the ground.
This is mine. (Ignore the leak)
The only difference with mine is that I have high steer arms. You're not going to be able to get it that high on stock Dana 30 knuckles but it'd sure help if you put the tie rod over the knuckle and double shear with the drag link and put the pitman arm end of the drag link under the pitman arm. Then move your trac bar to match the drag link angle.
I plan to make my pitman arm double shear.
#1073
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
The problem is that you have both of your heims almost completely maxed out.
I'd want it much more parallel to the ground.
This is mine. (Ignore the leak)
The only difference with mine is that I have high steer arms. You're not going to be able to get it that high on stock Dana 30 knuckles but it'd sure help if you put the tie rod over the knuckle and double shear with the drag link and put the pitman arm end of the drag link under the pitman arm. Then move your trac bar to match the drag link angle.
I plan to make my pitman arm double shear.
I'd want it much more parallel to the ground.
This is mine. (Ignore the leak)
The only difference with mine is that I have high steer arms. You're not going to be able to get it that high on stock Dana 30 knuckles but it'd sure help if you put the tie rod over the knuckle and double shear with the drag link and put the pitman arm end of the drag link under the pitman arm. Then move your trac bar to match the drag link angle.
I plan to make my pitman arm double shear.
#1074
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
#1075
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Ok. When you said parallel I was looking at the angles and they seem pretty close. But now that you say more parallel to the ground it makes sense. I know rough country has a track bar that drops about 5 inches. That should give me enough rom to move the drag link under the pitman arm.
#1078
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0