never ending jeep build? maybe...
#91
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
I usually go out to the pine barrens. And I just recently got a new daily driver so I won't really be driving the jeep around that much.
#92
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Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by XJ4life92
I usually go out to the pine barrens. And I just recently got a new daily driver so I won't really be driving the jeep around that much.
#95
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
just grab the disc brackets off of a grand cherokee and swap them over. need longer studs too. you have to modify the bracket alittle bit to fit... do a quick search. there should be write ups on it. have to swap over the brake proportioning valve too. thats necessary when switching from drums to discs. i just took one off of a grand cherokee with 4 wheel discs at the junkyard and put it on mine. also stainless steel lines help alot with brake responsiveness. also should look into doing a wj brake booster/MC swap too. that's pretty easy and helps alot. that along with deleting the factory ABS were the first brake mods i did. all in all, the brakes i have now kick serious ***. it stops on a dime and feels responsive. doesnt feel like it has 33s. if i were to do one other thing it would be doing the wj front brake swap as well. that upgrades to bigger rotors and dual piston calipers.
#98
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
as of right now the 8.25 is getting torn down and all new bearings and seals that the mesh is being set...correctly... haha.
they did great in everything but super sloppy sticky mud. but thats usually where every tire looses the battle. ive seen boggers cake up out there and look like slicks. that clay is no joke. so considering its kinda more of a all terrain-ish tire...they do very very well. i like them. theyre good on the road too.
#99
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
workin on rebuilding the rear now. how much do you tighten the adjusting collars on the 8.25 for carrier bearing preload?
pulled the rear
garage
new races tapped in
also got the new wheel bearings and seals in.
new carrier bearings in
now the problem is finding a inch/pounds needle torque wrench for pinion preload. also trying to figure out how tight to make the carrier preload. the book says 150-200 foot/pounds but i made them probably 125 and the carrier would not budge...so thats either a typo or totally wrong all together. if anybody knows help would be great. i want it done by the weekend cause theres a big wheelin thing on sunday!!!
pulled the rear
garage
new races tapped in
also got the new wheel bearings and seals in.
new carrier bearings in
now the problem is finding a inch/pounds needle torque wrench for pinion preload. also trying to figure out how tight to make the carrier preload. the book says 150-200 foot/pounds but i made them probably 125 and the carrier would not budge...so thats either a typo or totally wrong all together. if anybody knows help would be great. i want it done by the weekend cause theres a big wheelin thing on sunday!!!
#100
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
thanks for the insight on how the duratracs will do off the road. im going wheeling for the first time(in 3yrs) next weekend.
#101
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
also on a side note...found how to adjust it all from a jeep dealer
The following must be considered when adjusting bearing preload and gear backlash:
The maximum ring gear backlash variation is 0.003 inch (0.076 mm)
Mark the gears so the same teeth are meshed during all backlash measurements.
Maintain the torque while adjusting the bearing preload and ring gear backlash.
Excessive adjuster torque will introduce a high bearing load and cause premature bearing failure. Insufficient adjuster torque can result in excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.
Insufficient adjuster torque will not support the ring gear correctly and can cause excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.
NOTE: The differential bearing cups will not always immediately follow the threaded adjusters as they are moved during adjustment. To ensure accurate bearing cup responses to the adjustments:
Maintain the gear teeth engaged (meshed) as marked.
The bearings must be seated by rapidly rotating the pinion gear a half turn back and forth.
Do this five to ten times each time the threaded adjusters are adjusted.
Use Wrench C-4164 to adjust each threaded adjuster inward until the differential bearing free-play is eliminated Threaded Adjuster Tool Allow some ring gear backlash (approximately 0.01 inch/0.25 mm) between the ring and pinion gear. Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
Install dial indicator and position the plunger against the drive side of a ring gear tooth Ring Gear Backlash Measurement Measure the backlash at 4 positions (90 degrees apart) around the ring gear. Locate and mark the area of minimum backlash.
Rotate the ring gear to the position of the least backlash. Mark the gear so that all future backlash measurements will be taken with the same gear teeth meshed.
Loosen the right-side, tighten the left-side threaded adjuster. Obtain backlash of 0.003 to 0.004 inch (0.076 to 0.102 mm) with each adjuster tightened to 14 N•m (10 ft. lbs.) Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
Tighten the differential bearing cap bolts 95 N•m (70 ft. lbs.)
Tighten the right-side threaded adjuster to 102 N•m (75 ft. lbs.) Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above. Continue to tighten the right-side adjuster and seat bearing cups until the torque remains constant at 102 N•m (75 ft. lbs.)
Measure the ring gear backlash. The range of backlash is 0.006 to 0.008 inch (0.15 to 0.203 mm)
Continue increasing the torque at the right-side threaded adjuster until the specified backlash is obtained
NOTE: The left-side threaded adjuster torque should have approximately 102 N•m (75 ft. lbs.) If the torque is considerably less, the complete adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Tighten the left-side threaded adjuster until 102 N•m (75 ft. lbs.) torque is indicated. Seat the bearing rollers with the procedure described above. Do this until the torque remains constant.
Install the threaded adjuster locks and tighten the lock screws to 10 N•m (90 in. lbs.)
After the proper backlash is achieved, perform the Gear Contact Analysis procedure.
8.25 specs are
8 1/4 INCH AXLE
Axle TypeSemi-floating, hypoid LubricantSAE 80W-90 Lube Capacity2.08 L (4.4 pts.) Trac-Lok Additive118 ml (4 oz.) Axle Ratio3.07, 3.55,.
4.10 Differential Case Clearance0.12 mm (0.005 in.) Case Flange Runout0.076 mm (0.003 in.) Ring Gear Diameter20.95 cm (8.25 in.) Backlash0.12-0.20 mm (0.005-0.008 in.) Runout0.127 mm (0.005 in.) Pinion Bearing Preload-Used Bearings1-2 N•m (10-20 in.lbs.) Preload-New Bearings1-5 N•m (10-30 in.lbs.)The pinion bearing torque numbers are a turning torque.
#102
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Year: 1992
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oh yea. finished the rear a while ago, totally silent now! 7 thousandths of an inch b/l which is between 6 and 8.... cause 7 8 9.... jeep dealer says 6 min, 8 max. either way. super happy with it. put my sway bar back on and the thing rides like a dream. love it. now just to test it out somewhere...
#103
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
been a while, didnt do much to it, but will be shortly. been shopping...
csf 3 row radiator
eaton m90
also bought a new head gasket set and head bolts. head is coming off and getting cleaned up. thinking about putting a camshaft in it while its off....what do you guys think?
also does anybody have experience with piggy back computers for obd1? i was looking at split seconds ftc1 but im not sure it it will work with obd1. so then my thinking is swap it to obd2 and run a piggyback, or go megasquirt...and build it from the ground up to read the boost. probably going to run 8 lbs max
csf 3 row radiator
eaton m90
also bought a new head gasket set and head bolts. head is coming off and getting cleaned up. thinking about putting a camshaft in it while its off....what do you guys think?
also does anybody have experience with piggy back computers for obd1? i was looking at split seconds ftc1 but im not sure it it will work with obd1. so then my thinking is swap it to obd2 and run a piggyback, or go megasquirt...and build it from the ground up to read the boost. probably going to run 8 lbs max
#104
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
here's some good convo on the topic, applied to a stroker but some stuff applies
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...charger+tuning
I would not do an OBDII swap.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...charger+tuning
I would not do an OBDII swap.
#105
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
thanks, i couldnt let the blower deal pass, i got it with a new rebuilt snout and new oil and coupler for 60$ plus the bypass valve, and a throttle body off a 03 gtp or gto or something...i think...
Last edited by XJ4life92; 05-17-2013 at 05:06 PM.