And Now For Something Completely Different - Clown's YJ Build
#706
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
#707
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I tuck my rear tires way too well for that. I have about 1/4" of clearance to my fenders at the front and back.
Now when I put Street Rod tags on it in 2018.....
Maybe 3-link and coilovers. Maybe leaf stretch.
Definitely tons and a longer wheelbase.
Now when I put Street Rod tags on it in 2018.....
Maybe 3-link and coilovers. Maybe leaf stretch.
Definitely tons and a longer wheelbase.
#708
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Not really, no. And the ones that *are* out there are due for rebuilds. I don't have a place to do the work, and I don't have time to do the work. I don't like spending the money, but it's what I need to do right now.
#712
No, I don't lick fish.
Dropped it off at a local transmission shop yesterday. They're reputable and highly recommended by everyone I talk to.
As much as I hate taking it to a shop, and I hate paying someone to work on it... I paid $600 and the work was done wrong. It killed three months of my time including several full weekends. I don't have the time to learn how to fix the transmission, and I don't have the time or a place to pull it back out and let him try rebuilding it again.
They're speculating it's a warped flex plate and a failing pump, but of course they made it clear that they can't guarantee anything yet. They expect 3-4 business days to completion, and I'm looking at a ballpark figure of $2k. At least I have a job again, and I can afford it...even if I had other plans for that money.
They also let me know something is flexing under acceleration and causing my fan to rub the shroud. I'll be looking into that since my Brown Dog motor mounts aren't that old.
I also had them flush the brake lines because the Jeep barely stops. Whether I'm approaching a stop sign or standing on the pedal with both feet, my brakes are only slightly better than coasting. I was hoping there was air trapped inside, but the flush didn't help. Next steps for brakes, proceeding until I'm satisfied:
1. Remove the o-ring from the bolt in the master cylinder.
2. New pads and rotors all around and new rear calipers.
3. Manual proportioning valve so I can balance front/rear.
Once it can move and stop, I'll finally get to installing the shock towers and ordering shocks. I'm also starting to think about a Currie AntiRock to help reduce body roll.
As much as I hate taking it to a shop, and I hate paying someone to work on it... I paid $600 and the work was done wrong. It killed three months of my time including several full weekends. I don't have the time to learn how to fix the transmission, and I don't have the time or a place to pull it back out and let him try rebuilding it again.
They're speculating it's a warped flex plate and a failing pump, but of course they made it clear that they can't guarantee anything yet. They expect 3-4 business days to completion, and I'm looking at a ballpark figure of $2k. At least I have a job again, and I can afford it...even if I had other plans for that money.
They also let me know something is flexing under acceleration and causing my fan to rub the shroud. I'll be looking into that since my Brown Dog motor mounts aren't that old.
I also had them flush the brake lines because the Jeep barely stops. Whether I'm approaching a stop sign or standing on the pedal with both feet, my brakes are only slightly better than coasting. I was hoping there was air trapped inside, but the flush didn't help. Next steps for brakes, proceeding until I'm satisfied:
1. Remove the o-ring from the bolt in the master cylinder.
2. New pads and rotors all around and new rear calipers.
3. Manual proportioning valve so I can balance front/rear.
Once it can move and stop, I'll finally get to installing the shock towers and ordering shocks. I'm also starting to think about a Currie AntiRock to help reduce body roll.
#713
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
OEM master cylinder and booster. Hundreds of people have done the 8.8 swap without any other changes, and mine sucks. Now that I know there's no air in the lines, I suspect it's a problem with the hardware on the 8.8
#714
No, I don't lick fish.
I was thinking more along the lines of the tire diameter, not the 8.8 swap. My brakes have certainly seen a drop in performance since upgrading to 32" tires. I'm sure the 37s push it beyond the system's limits.
#715
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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And Now For Something Completely Different - Clown's YJ Build
It's a good thought, but it isn't my issue.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 06-16-2016 at 01:51 AM.
#716
No, I don't lick fish.
#717
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
So the YJ exhaust downpipe has a tab that goes into the trans mount. IIRC, the XJ is similar. Well, that tab tore a hole in the downpipe (again) because Walker uses thin gauge metal. This is the third downpipe since I've owned it, so I'm switching to a TJ exhaust setup.
Instead of the downpipe crossing between the block and the bellhousing, the TJ piece wraps around the front of the oil pan. This keeps the pipe up higher and tucked away, and it also eliminates the YJ's setup which places significant stress on that welded tab.
But Advance doesn't have it in stock, despite their claims, so I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning.
Instead of the downpipe crossing between the block and the bellhousing, the TJ piece wraps around the front of the oil pan. This keeps the pipe up higher and tucked away, and it also eliminates the YJ's setup which places significant stress on that welded tab.
But Advance doesn't have it in stock, despite their claims, so I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning.
#718
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
So the YJ exhaust downpipe has a tab that goes into the trans mount. IIRC, the XJ is similar. Well, that tab tore a hole in the downpipe (again) because Walker uses thin gauge metal. This is the third downpipe since I've owned it, so I'm switching to a TJ exhaust setup.
Instead of the downpipe crossing between the block and the bellhousing, the TJ piece wraps around the front of the oil pan. This keeps the pipe up higher and tucked away, and it also eliminates the YJ's setup which places significant stress on that welded tab.
But Advance doesn't have it in stock, despite their claims, so I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning.
Instead of the downpipe crossing between the block and the bellhousing, the TJ piece wraps around the front of the oil pan. This keeps the pipe up higher and tucked away, and it also eliminates the YJ's setup which places significant stress on that welded tab.
But Advance doesn't have it in stock, despite their claims, so I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning.
XJ setup has a rod welded to the pipe that goes into a rubber pillow block on the crossmember. Or near it. Anyway I've never seen a 'tab'
#719
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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The TJ downpipe doesn't use that rod. It relies on the hangers to support the system. I'll have to figure something out for that, but I won't keep wasting money on the original design.
#720
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
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Yeah, that thing lol. The part of the rod that's welded to the pipe keeps separating from the pipe, and it leaves a 1" round hole in the pipe each time. The OEM one tore, and this is the second Walker pipe that has failed in that spot in the last two years. This one had less than 5k miles on it.
The TJ downpipe doesn't use that rod. It relies on the hangers to support the system. I'll have to figure something out for that, but I won't keep wasting money on the original design.
The TJ downpipe doesn't use that rod. It relies on the hangers to support the system. I'll have to figure something out for that, but I won't keep wasting money on the original design.
Could just use a clamp and forgo the welding business. Regardless, if the thing is actually ripping, it sounds like there's too much stress on the pipe. Got a flex pipe in there?