TheF.N.G.

Optima Battery and Tray

I have been working on upgrading the Cherokee to a more efficient power supply. Small stuff like a new Starter, Alternator and Battery Terminals.
But for my next phase I wanted an upgraded starter, a 136a Alternator, brass military battery terminals and 2 or 0 gauge Battery/Stater/Alternator Cables. Before this next step I wanted to have a good base for my next phase, so I opted for a Yellow Top Optima Battery and a Optima specific battery tray from Dirt Bound. Better battery, more secure tray system.

Problems and Solutions...

My old Battery Tray and bolt down was tired. The bolt down holding the battery to the tray had broken off, and the tray itself was wobbly.
Once I removed the battery I had noticed that 2 of the 3 studs that mounted the tray were sheered/broken off. So we took the grinder out and buzzed the studs down, and welded on some new ones. Mounted the new tray, and then the new Optima Battery. The tray is made to use the Optima Battery red retainer clips and bolt down. This keeps the battery help down without movement in even the roughest of trails, while keeping the top of the battery clean from the flimsy and prone to breakage stock battery bolt down.

- Side Note:
I have done a bunch of little mods/upgrades over the course of this summer. Just getting to posting some of them now. I am usually in a rush as I work on the Jeep in my yard on my days off, and my rig is my Daily Driver. As such I need to get each project finished and the Jeep back together so that I can make it to work the next day. So I often to forget to take pics consistently throughout each project from start to finish.
These next few installs may have limited pics and info.

93XJeeper

Ive done the trans cooler upgrade myself along with gauge and havnt had problems since. Great job on yours! Not tryna bash you or anything. Lol. But I've heard that putting the lines to exit going down can cause air bubble to get trapped in the top of the cooler.

TheF.N.G.

Well I know what I'm doing for a project tomorrow now...
Thanks for the heads up. Seems you're right, up or to the side seems to be the preferred orientation for inlet/outlet lines.

TheF.N.G.

"Nomad Expeditions" is a new Facebook page I started focusing on my Travels and Photography. This forum is where I post what I have done to the Jeep, on Nomad Expeditions I will post where I have gone with it.

I have been taking some time hitting some trails across the United States. I will be posting pics, and eventually videos of some of these trails, and provide information.

You are all invited to stop in and check it out.
It is just starting out, but there will be content posted on a regular basis.
If you like it, then like the page. I will eventually make a section for other fellow forum members to post their trips as well if there is interest.

I'll get a website together eventually, but for now this is what I got for you. If you are interested in Jeeps, Traveling, Off-Roading, Overlanding, Camping or Photography, take a look.

Thanks in advance for stopping by and checking it out.

Safe links: Nomad Expeditions: https://www.facebook.com/Nomad-Exped...2214623365008/

XJBARTZ90

subbed to your facebook page

WyoCherokee

liked your page!

TheF.N.G.

Steering Upgrades

So my power steering went on me while driving the Jeep on the Kancamagus Highway in New Hampshire. With 33x12.5 tires the steering was a little stiff w/o power steering, but not unmanageable. So I was able to drive it back most of the way way. That is, until the bearings give way and the pulley to the power steering pump comes off. So, back to the driveway to do a tear down and upgrade...

Problems and Solutions...

Problem #1: Power steering pump.

At this point I decide to upgrade from a stock Cherokee pump to a Grand Cherokee pump. Direct bolt on, with just two minor alterations to the setup.
#1 just need to plug the extra hole in reservoir that is intended to go to the Grand Cherokee Power Steering Cooler.
#2 Swap the 18mm High Pressure Hose fitting from the stock XJ pump to the WJ pump, as the new pump fitting is 22mm and the stock hose wont fit obviously.

Upon further inspection I notice that my steering box has seen better days and is rusting away.

Problem #2: Steering Box
Since the stock steering box is rotted, I decide to upgrade to the Dodge Durango Steering Box. Direct bolt on with no modifications. Upon removing the steering box, I realize that the steering box spacer bracket is cracked and not reusable.

Problem #3: Steer Box Spacer/Bracket
So this is a triangular 3 bolt spacer that sits between the steering box and the sub frame rail on the drivers side. 3 bolts go through the sub frame rail, then through the spacer, into the round steering box. I see this as an upgrade opportunity, but since there is no stock or hd version locally I will have to order one and wait a few days for delivery. Since this is my daily driver, that is an issue. So I simply bought 3 new bolts and a bunch of washers to use as makeshift spacers to get me by until the Heavy Duty Steering Box Bracket arrives a few days later. Ordered one from C-Rok. Delivery is on time, rugged and complete kit, goes in without issue.


Side note: Pitman Arm
Take the pitman arm off before you remove the steering box... lesson learned there.

Side note: Power Steering Pump
Be sure to bleed the power steering fluid through the pump properly, and cycle through your steering before starting your Jeep after the power steering pump install. Otherwise you may burn out your brand new pump.

Side Note: Pulley
Make sure you have a decent pulley installer. Mounting the pulley was a p.i.t.a. as I didn't have a pulley installer and had to rent one from a shop that had seen far better days.

Plummer

Nice! I love the complete and well thought overhaul of the entire steering system. Excellent build so far my man

TheF.N.G.

Steering and Suspension Upgrades

The short story:
I was driving with no way bar links with bad shocks and ball joints, and was looking to go on another cross country road trip.
This leads to the longer story...

The longer story:
Since I was in need of new shocks, I called Rough Country so they could provide me with the lengths for the 2.2 shocks that came with my existing 4.5" Long Arm Lift Kit.

My 4.5" Lift Rough Country Shock lengths:
Front Extended Length: 26" - Collapsed Length: 15"
Rear Extended Length: 25" - Collapsed Length: 15.25"

New Bilstein Shock Lengths:

Front Extended Length: 26.5" - Collapsed Length: 16.51" - Model: 24-187190
Rear Extended Length: 25.9" - Collapsed Length: 15.9" - Model: 33-151663

I got as close as I could to those lengths with the new Bilstein 5100 shocks, but it was not an exact match. So I got some extended bump stops to compensate for the slightly longer collapsed length. I also really needed extended bump stops to limit my travel for a bunch of other reasons. This lead me to check and update a few things before I undertake another long overland trip.

Ball Joints and the adjustable track bar's heim joint had some play so they also got replaced. I didn't like how in order to adjust the track bar I had to remove it from the bracket and rotate the heim joint. So I opted for the newer version that could be adjusted without removal, like a tie rod style adjustable track bar. This also had a bend to help avoid hitting on the diff cover.

All of this in turn prompted a more in-depth overhaul of the vehicle...


Preliminary Punch List:

Installs:

• Install New Shocks Front and Rear
• Install New Extended Bump Stops Front and Rear
• Install OEM Sway Bar and New Extended Quick Disco Sway Bar Links
• Install New Leaf Spring Shackle Relocation Kit
• Install New Brakes
• Install New Track Bar

Adjustments:

• Check and Adjust Existing RC Long Arm List Kit
• Check and Adjust RC Adjustable Trac Bar
• Check and Adjust any and all suspension and Steering Components
• Check and Adjust Front Brakes - Replace if Necessary
• Tighten up Steering, Suspension and Lift Components to Correct Geometry

Leaks:

• Resolve Power Steering Box Leak
• Resolve Slip Yolk Eliminator Leak
• Check and change all fluids (oil, gear, coolant, etc)

Modification Fix:

• Shave or Adjust Alternator Bracket so that Serpentine Belt is properly Aligned

Parts List:

Shocks -

• Bilstein 5100 Series

• 2 Front - Extended Length: 26.5" - Collapsed Length: 16.51" - Model: 24-187190
• 2 Rear - Extended Length: 25.9" - Collapsed Length: 15.9" - Model: 33-151663

Steering:

• Rough Country Heavy Duty Adjustable Track Bar - Model:1042
• JKS Extended Front Sway Bar Quicker Disconnects - Model: 2001
• Original Stock Sway Bar
• Moog Sway Bar Bushings - Model: K3171

Bump Stops

• Daystar Extended Front Upper Bump Stops - Model: KJ09114BK
• Rubicon Express Front Lower 2" Bump Stops - Model: RE1380
• Daystar Extended Rear Bump Stops - Model: KJ09122BK

Misc:

• Rough Country Shackle Relocation Kit - Model: 1117

Brakes:

• Centric Rotors - Model:120.67045
• Hawk Performance Brake Pads - Model: HB210Y.677LTS

No pics at the moment, may try to dig them up at some point.

MWMahoneyJr

Nice, nice. Keep us posted.

TheF.N.G.

Replacing Clutch Fan with an Electric Fan

Mechanical clutch fans CFM airflow (Cubic Feet per Minute) directly relates to engine RPMs. The problem is that while off-roading in 4 wheel drive at low RPMs the clutch fan isn't doing a whole lot. The auxiliary e-fan will kick in to help, but it's not an optimum system due to lack of control.

So I opted to remove the mechanical clutch fan and install an electric fan. This way I can control the fans speed and airflow regardless of the engines RPMs. This would also delete another pulley from my setup. This will make two pulleys that have been deleted from the system thus far.
I selected a Ford Taurus electric fan, which is known for its substantial CFM speed.

Got some wire, relays, fuses, and a toggle switch; and got to work.

MWMahoneyJr

Very nice. I'm gonna overhaul the cooling system in the next few months. Maybe I'll delete the clutch fan.

TheF.N.G.

I had been experiencing some overheating, vapor locks and boil overs under load. So I have been systematically experimenting with cooling system upgrades to see what works best for my XJ.

With a new radiator, Thermostat, water pump, inlet tube, hood louvers and e-fan; the running temp is now well under 210 now. But she still has some boil overs when working hard in steep grades in higher elevations (Colorado Rockies for example). I'll keep you posted as I dial it in.

Basslicks

Hey bud. Hang on to that fan hub bearing. I just had to order one off of Amazon recently. 20 bucks for a new one made by Omix-ADA. I'm sure someone in need would appreciate a good used OEM.

TheF.N.G.

I think I still have it kicking around somewhere. I try to save as much parts as possible, within reason.