Overland Build: Yellow Jeep XJ
#106
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Awesome!
Just read your entire build. You have built one nice rig bud. How's the 4.0 holding up on all these trips? I live in Arizona and take my jeep camping up north in the White mountains area. I know with the jeep completely loaded down with gear and driving through some steep mountain grades, she struggles to get up those hills. I couldn't imagine driving it cross country although that's what I intend to do in the future. I'm planning on an ls swap for that very reason. Great job, I may have to steal some ideas!
#107
Seasoned Member
Just read your entire build. You have built one nice rig bud. How's the 4.0 holding up on all these trips? I live in Arizona and take my jeep camping up north in the White mountains area. I know with the jeep completely loaded down with gear and driving through some steep mountain grades, she struggles to get up those hills. I couldn't imagine driving it cross country although that's what I intend to do in the future. I'm planning on an ls swap for that very reason. Great job, I may have to steal some ideas!
I've always been surprised at the power output of the 4.0 in the XJ.
#108
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Running aw4, 32's at, stock gearing 3.55, engine is at 207k, last time I checked everything seemed kosher with the engine and Tranny, I'm deployed right now so who knows what my wife has done to it lol. The jeep does great around town, but I feel like it's starting to lack power and get up and go like it used to, might be time for a rebuild but I may just do a 5.3 swap if I'm gonna pull the motor anyways. Still a lot of things to factor. Once im back home the jeep will get throughly inspected and I'll make a list of what parts need to be addressed.
#109
Seasoned Member
Running aw4, 32's at, stock gearing 3.55, engine is at 207k, last time I checked everything seemed kosher with the engine and Tranny, I'm deployed right now so who knows what my wife has done to it lol. The jeep does great around town, but I feel like it's starting to lack power and get up and go like it used to, might be time for a rebuild but I may just do a 5.3 swap if I'm gonna pull the motor anyways. Still a lot of things to factor. Once im back home the jeep will get throughly inspected and I'll make a list of what parts need to be addressed.
Last edited by Joshua White; 03-26-2017 at 12:56 PM.
#110
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Well I can tell you from experience, going from 3.55 to just 4.10 in the axles makes a huge difference. So if you regear to what it's supposed to be for a 32-33 inch tire it'll be even better. I love the 4.0, I'd rather just build that sucker back up to handle a little boost and that'll take care of any hwy issues at all.
#111
Seasoned Member
A regear is definitely on the to do list! That's why I was curious how the "OP" rig has been doing on his trips. Contemplating whether or not I'll be fine with 4.10/32 combo or going up to 4.56... I want highway power with all my gear, bumpers, roof rack, wife and dogs packed in there but still maintain a decent gas mileage and road manners for an expeditionary/dd vehicle. Age old problem.. more power vs better gas mileage.
#112
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
Just read your entire build. You have built one nice rig bud. How's the 4.0 holding up on all these trips? I live in Arizona and take my jeep camping up north in the White mountains area. I know with the jeep completely loaded down with gear and driving through some steep mountain grades, she struggles to get up those hills. I couldn't imagine driving it cross country although that's what I intend to do in the future. I'm planning on an ls swap for that very reason. Great job, I may have to steal some ideas!
So I have an Automatic, and regeared my axles to 4.56. I live in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, so like deeper gears. It handles hills alot better, doesn't seem to be searching for over drive.Even when I hit the Rockies out in Colorado and submitted at 13,300 in the XJ. I can still do 80 on the highway. On a good week I can get 14-16pg city, 16-19mpg on the highway. But I did some other mods like high flow intake, headers and exhaust; throttle body bored out to 63mm, and 784 fuel injectors. I have also deleted 2 pulleys from my serpentine belt route.
I have steel rims, and 33" tires. But they are lighter tires, being Goodyear Duratac AT's. I sacrificed some plys and sidewall protection for lighter weight. Trying to keep my unsprung weight down to avoid ******* down my accelerations and breaking. Heavier carcass tires will take a bigger hit, like power robbing General Grabbers or Cooper Discovery. Awesome tires, but they start to rob power on a stock XJ set up. If I were to run heavier tires like those, and go to 35" I would likely regear to 4.88.
Having an automatic, I would rather regear to 4.88 to be honest. Once I get better axles, I will gear to 4.88 and never look back. Now my buddy has a heavy build and just regeared to 4.56 and he loves it. But his is a standard, so his 4.56 is more like mine having a 4.88. I'm thinking that's the deepest I would dig that would still handle the highway.
Personally my suggestion would be to pass on 4.10, and depending on your axles and transmission, go for 4.56 or 4.88 depending on the direction of your build. You want at least 4.56 for 33s, and 4.88 for 35s to try to get back to that peppy stock feel. While that's a general rule of thumb, but there are many that prefer different gear ratios.
P.s. I was driving around the Tuscon area in 2015 and 2016. Should be back either this or next year. Played around down there, then wheeled up in Sedona. Good times.
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#113
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I appreciate the detailed explanation, that helps me out a ton. I don't plan on ever going above 33s, I think 4.56 gears might do the trick for me. I have 32 general grabbler AT2 on jk moab rims, I'd say they are on the heavier side but I do love them for the dirt and rocks here in AZ. I'm actually from Tucson and I went to college for a bit up in Flagstaff. I know that area very well. If youre ever back in Tucson be sure to let me know, I can recommend some great authentic Mexican food restraunts.
#114
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
I appreciate the detailed explanation, that helps me out a ton. I don't plan on ever going above 33s, I think 4.56 gears might do the trick for me. I have 32 general grabbler AT2 on jk moab rims, I'd say they are on the heavier side but I do love them for the dirt and rocks here in AZ. I'm actually from Tucson and I went to college for a bit up in Flagstaff. I know that area very well. If youre ever back in Tucson be sure to let me know, I can recommend some great authentic Mexican food restraunts.
I am also opting to go from 4.56 to 4.88 because of add wight of the rig. From bumpers, winch, rear tire carrier, rock sliders, roof sliders, and gear. And with the upcoming addition of a Roof Top Tent, shes going to get heavy. Combine that with the fact that its an automatic, and 4.88 is starting to look like a better gearing than 4.56 for my needs. I'm pretty sure I could still hit highway speeds. But as long as you keep her light, and at 33's, 4.56 should do you fine.
As for the i6 4.0 itself, shes good man. Shes getting a little doggy, but shes a tired. Shes done well, under full load, with tons of weight, and higher mileage. So it is to be expected. It's the 2001, so Cali emissions, precats, the whole 9. I always felt my 99 was a little more peppy before I even started the build on the yellow. But I can always tear down and go for a mild budget stroker build to get some pepp back. Or just get a fresh low mileage i6 and stroke it. Either way I'll probably consider that once the mileage is around 200k.
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Last edited by TheF.N.G.; 03-27-2017 at 04:57 PM.
#115
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
We grabbed some Sonotan Dogs at El Guero Conelo, and I think we eat breakfast at Bobo's. I'll definitely be back in the area at some point, I'll give you a heads up.
I am also opting to go from 4.56 to 4.88 because of add wight of the rig. From bumpers, winch, rear tire carrier, rock sliders, roof sliders, and gear. And with the upcoming addition of a Roof Top Tent, shes going to get heavy. Combine that with the fact that its an automatic, and 4.88 is starting to look like a better gearing than 4.56 for my needs. I'm pretty sure I could still hit highway speeds. But as long as you keep her light, and at 33's, 4.56 should do you fine.
As for the i6 4.0 itself, shes good man. Shes getting a little doggy, but shes a tired. Shes done well, under full load, with tons of weight, and higher mileage. So it is to be expected. It's the 2001, so Cali emissions, precats, the whole 9. I always felt my 99 was a little more peppy before I even started the build on the yellow. But I can always tear down and go for a mild budget stroker build to get some pepp back. Or just get a fresh low mileage i6 and stroke it. Either way I'll probably consider that once the mileage is around 200k.
I am also opting to go from 4.56 to 4.88 because of add wight of the rig. From bumpers, winch, rear tire carrier, rock sliders, roof sliders, and gear. And with the upcoming addition of a Roof Top Tent, shes going to get heavy. Combine that with the fact that its an automatic, and 4.88 is starting to look like a better gearing than 4.56 for my needs. I'm pretty sure I could still hit highway speeds. But as long as you keep her light, and at 33's, 4.56 should do you fine.
As for the i6 4.0 itself, shes good man. Shes getting a little doggy, but shes a tired. Shes done well, under full load, with tons of weight, and higher mileage. So it is to be expected. It's the 2001, so Cali emissions, precats, the whole 9. I always felt my 99 was a little more peppy before I even started the build on the yellow. But I can always tear down and go for a mild budget stroker build to get some pepp back. Or just get a fresh low mileage i6 and stroke it. Either way I'll probably consider that once the mileage is around 200k.
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if you're going to add a roof top tent then I'd say 4.88 would be the way to go. I'm already over 200k on the I6, she still does great but I can tell the pep isn't what it used to be. I may still consider the 5.3 swap, we shall see how she does once the bumpers and gearing get added on. I've never been a fan of the strokers ( personal opinion) but to each their own.
keep up the great work! Maybe I'll actually start a build on here once I'm back in the states. Lol
#116
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 CID 4.0 Inline 6 Chrysler MPI "High Output"
So This Happened...
Seat belt kept me from injury. The roof slider did its job (albeit in an unorthodox way) and helped minimize roof damage. It did detach from the rain guard up front and crush the roof slightly. Cragar soft 8 steel rim never lost bead, held air. Driver side doors open. I have not not attempted passenger side doors nor rear hatch, as I need to drive it to my friends house to work on it. Don't want to risk have doors not closing in transit. Easy little hill. A little greasy, a little wet grass. Didn't pick the best line, started a lateral drivers side slide. No big deal cut the wheel to turn out of it downhill like Ive done countless times before. Then my drivers side front tire caught a rock...
First off, we had to get her back on her feet. Used my recovery gear along with a 2nd vehicle and flipped her over.
Second, see if she can start and move under her own power. Did a walk around to asses steering, suspension and drive train components. Then proceeded to take a look under the hood. Drivers side lower control arm shackle on the axle was tweaked, but other than that just cosmetics.
Powers up, but doesn't start. So we check grounds first, then pull the coil pack and check the spark plugs. Spark plugs for cylinders 5 and 6 are soaked with oil. So I clean them off and turn the key a few times to clear the oil from the top. Put it all back together, she fires up, White smoke while she cycles through, then clear. We are good to go.
Rode the trail, did a bony river crossing, and drove her home.
First off, we had to get her back on her feet. Used my recovery gear along with a 2nd vehicle and flipped her over.
Second, see if she can start and move under her own power. Did a walk around to asses steering, suspension and drive train components. Then proceeded to take a look under the hood. Drivers side lower control arm shackle on the axle was tweaked, but other than that just cosmetics.
Powers up, but doesn't start. So we check grounds first, then pull the coil pack and check the spark plugs. Spark plugs for cylinders 5 and 6 are soaked with oil. So I clean them off and turn the key a few times to clear the oil from the top. Put it all back together, she fires up, White smoke while she cycles through, then clear. We are good to go.
Rode the trail, did a bony river crossing, and drove her home.
Here is how she sits now:
Not too bad considering...
Not too bad considering...
Damage Report:
- Drivers Side lower control arm shackle on axle damages
- Slight damage to roof and front fenders
- Cracked windshield
- Rim Damaged from rock
Lessons Learned:
- Always square up before a hill climb
- Always properly read the terrain
- Never underestimate any terrain
- Never become overconfident in driving ability
- Never become overconfident in vehicles ability
- Continue to wear seat belts, even on the easiest of trails, as anything can happen.
- Properly secure all objects in cab to avoid projectile injury in event of accident or roll over.
I had to eat some humble pie and recognize that overconfidence, miscalculations, improper line and failure to thoroughly read the entire terrain on potentially the easiest trail I have ever driven on was the contributing factors as to how and why I flipped the Jeep.
On the plus side we all handled it calmly and it was a textbook recovery. I work as an offroad tour driver by profession, and ride with other drivers. So it was a very calm and fun recovery experience. We are also trained in wilderness rescue and evac procedures, so that helps. The situation quickly went from rescue, to recovery, to busting my chops. We know each other well, and have excellent communication and knowledge of recovery equipment. And the jokes ensued...
All in all. not a bad roll over. No injuries, minor vehicle damage.
Whats next:
Ordered 1/4" HD Lower Control Arm Mounts with skids from Iron Rock. I will pull apart the entire steering and suspension for inspection while the axle is out. Check unibody. Check entire Jeep inside and out, engine, transmission, drivetrain, etc. Weld Rock sliders to unibody frame rails. Invest in better seats to accommodate 4 point seat belts. Roll cage and partial exo cage install. Metal tube frame flat fenders. Fix roof or opt for chop top.
First priority is to fix lca mount, as that is the only thing keeping me from driving it comfortably at the moment. The front axle is now pushed back a few inches, so it catches my fender well and rock slider on medium to full left hand turns.
More to come...
P.s. My friends have named both myself and the Jeep: "Kickflip"
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Last edited by TheF.N.G.; 05-12-2017 at 12:51 PM.
#119
No, I don't lick fish.
Dammit man... looks like it bent that driver's side slider down in the recovery effort, yeah? Glad you and the Jeep are okay. Doesn't look like the damage is too bad, so hopefully it won't cost too much to fix. Got me lookin' into that roof slider now.
#120
Seasoned Member
Glad everyone was uninjured first off
Second, glad it wasn't more major damage or a more severe roll.
I vote proper chop top and cage ;-)
Second, glad it wasn't more major damage or a more severe roll.
I vote proper chop top and cage ;-)