^^ No issues with the bushwacker flares. They make the life look roomier that it would have been normally. I think the room is there for the 33's, i'm thinking about the shackle relocators to smooth out the ride but I'm waiting to see about the tires first. I can always bump up the height with a longer shackle and a front puck and I've got adjustable upper and lower arms to help.

 

Ordered the Rubicon Express Adjustable track bar, bracket and Brace, should be arriving this week. I also ordered a Blue Sea aux fuse panel and breaker switch to help clean up my accessory wiring. Will update upon install. Got my Tax refund so its time to go on a spending spree!!! WEEEE

 

Well made some good progress over the weekend. Got my coolant leak fixed.

New water pump put in, Thermostat, timing chain cover gasket, and radiator flushed.
The water pump on the 4.0 is really quite simple to change, almost as easy as a ford FE or Chevy SB. I took my time and it took me probably about 5 hours with parts store runs, beer runs, ups deliveries, etc.

Ill do a simple bullet list.

1. Disconnect battery(you dont have to, but it is good measure and gives you chance to clean the posts). I was in need of a new battery, so i ran to town to get a new interstate megatron.
2. remove the e-fan and fan shroud. both are held on with small 10mm bolts along the shroud.
3. pull up on the e-fanto remove it. be sure to disconnect the plug infront of the air filter box
4. YOu dont have to remove the air filter box, but i did.
5.loosen the idler adjuster pulley with a 15mm socket and loosen belt adjuster with i believe is also a 15mm. you may have to push down on the idler to break free any rust.
6. remove belt taking note of the routing( i replaced my belt and kept the old one as a spare.)
7. remove fan and fan clutch using a 13mm gear wrench and flathead screw driver(i replaced my fan clutch)
8. remove fan clutch idler
9. remove idler from water pump using 13mm socket(you must do this in order to get to the bottom 2 bolts holding water pump to block
10. drain radiator by removing the lower hose and discard hose(If replacing)
11. remove upper hose and discard(if replacing)
12. remove thermostat housing and thermostat
13. place thermostat housing in dishwasher(do not tell wife or GF) and run a load with her finest china
Now comes the fun!!
14. Remove water pump, dont forget there is one bolt right next to the timing chain cover under the pump(look at your new pump). You made need a can of brake cleaner to clean away grime.
15. You should now see this:

Yummy....(my thermostat housing is still attached here).

16. get out your razor blades and scrape away the old gasket material(this can be baked on there so make sure to take your time and get a clean metal surface, otherwise the rtv wont mate securely).
17. I chose to replace my timing chain cover gasket and inspect my chain at this time. You will need to get a dampener puller for this.
18. Install the new inlet pipe(Make sure you use a copious amount of pipe tape or pipe dope on this thread(allot of leaks come from here and there is no way to fix it once installed on the engine)


18. Lay your new water pump upside down on your bench and coat the gastet surface with RTV(I prefer blue), Not to thick. place gasket over the surface lining up the holes. Smear RTV over the gasket in the same manner(NOT TO THICK!!!)
19. I got new bolts at home depot because mine were old and stretchy. I don't remember the size but i took my old ones in and matched them. I got stainless.
20. Install new water pump and torque to specs
21. Repeat process with thermostat housing. BE sure to put the thermostat into it little "cubby" in the head, Spring side in.
22. Now is a good time to flush the heater core by using a garden hose and running it between the two hoses until clean water flows back and forth. Don't use to much pressure.

23.re-intall removed idlers and fan clutch. Install new Serpentine belt and tension(use the twist test= belt should twist no more than 90 degrees above the tension idler.)

24. Install new radiator hoses and clamps(discard those cheapo tension clamps and get screw clamps.
25. Add new coolant and water (Get raw coolant and distilled water) 3 gallons at a 50/50 mix. It may only take a bout 2.5
26. Re-install fan shroud and e-fan
27. Fire it up and bleed the system and check for leaks

 

after i got my leak fixed and while waiting for silicone to dry, i installed my Rock Sliders from AJ's Offroad. I chose the Super Rock Rails http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=250&page=1

This company was great to work with and had phenominal service. THe sliders were at my door 4 days after ordering them. I chose unfinished and painted them myself.


Very pleased with the quality. You will need a 21/64's drill bit for the self threading bolts. I ended up ordering 2 from Snap-on as i could not find a 21/64's bit anywhere in town.

 

And to make sure i had no leaks on the pump, i went for a drive with some buddies to scout for Chukar.

We found some mud and some cool country.

 

Awesome build/project thus far. Yours is exactly where I want mine to be here soon. SUBSCRIBED

 

Thanks She is almost (not really) done. Just a few more things before i stop my Amazon and quadratec shopping sprees.

to do:

• Install 1.5" insolators and shackles
• Install the rear spartan locker
• install the extended brake lines
• durango alternator( this may come this weekend as my guage keeps freaking out)
• get my header back exhaust fabbed up (was quateod $400 fora 2.5" header back)
• install the JCR frame tie-ins
• Intall the skid row LCA guards
• Install my guages ( oil, coolant, volts)
• MEasure/install bumpstops
• strip interior and herculine
• clean the NSS
• install Napier flat flares

I need to do all this before May 17th when i leave for Moab HAHAHA

 

Got some progress done over the weekend. SPent most of my time on the Girlfriends Duramax.

Was able to install the Blue Sea Fuse Box, Bussman breaker and my Rigid Dually's. Still need to re-route the fuse box wiring. not happy with how it sits.

 

Nice build! I have the nates4x4 roof rack too. I'm curious what you're using to attach the spare to the rack?

 

ratchet strap

 

Started installing the Napier Precision Flat Flares. Seem Pretty Stout. I will be switching out the screws for bolts as 2 of the screws never sucked down tight and just spun in the holes.

 

Got 3 flares on. 1 more to go ( Drivers Front) but i need to drop my washer fluid reservoir so i can drill through the fender. I am impressed with the quality, but not the mounting. I will be swapping the sheet metal screws for 1/4" bolts. Although i can stand on the flare, i am worried about the screws stripping out. I gained a solid 3" of space in the front fenders just from the trimming and about 1.5" in the rear after i did the Cut n Fold on the fender lips.

 

Well i am really at a conundrum here.
I am happy where she is at with 3.5, trimmed and flared and 32's. I have no Vibes and no need for a SYE and decent articulation. I have a set of 4" lift coils and 1.5" lift shackles sitting in my garage. Im guessing that as soon as those go on, i am going to get vibes and need to go SYE.
In addition, ive been tossing around the idea of going with the RE Long arm Conversion for 4.5" and putting the rear shackles on.
So do i just bite the bullet and go with the coils and shackles and install the t-case spacers or just save my pennies for a SYE and long arm conversion.

 

Definitely save up and get an SYE!

 

Why do you want to go higher? You could easily fit 33s with no problems and even 35s with bumpstops. I would build my own long arms and keep it at the height it is if you are set on long arms.