dukie564

by asking the manufacturer. Any good coating company will have done extensive testing with their products to find out what applications it works best for. In the case of monstaliner two key points were that a) you cannot apply it directly over acid etch primer, and b) the surface must be roughened first, or applied over a tacked coat of epoxy primer (but not fully cured) - it will not work over shiny aluminum or smooth surfaces.

The SD7 will be applied directly to the floor pans (over some generic primer where needed), then the acid etch primer over top to achieve good adhesion to the aluminum facing on the SD7. The epoxy primer will go over top of the etch primer to "lock in" the etching primer components that may leach out, and the monstaliner over top of that.

dukie564

fixed my floor

Green2000

Looks great!

dukie564

my floor pans were very considerate and cut themselves out

fritzthekatt

Who needs windows.

ColdWarrior

HOLY Flintstonemobile.......

Basslicks

Floorless and doorless beechez!

dukie564

Replacing floor pans is a lot of work!

Didn't get as far as planned, but happy to report the passenger side is effectively done, at least the welding/sealing/undercoating. I still need to source covers for a couple of the holes, and i still need to lay down the sound deadening material and roll the bedliner - but I think that will wait till the entire pan is welded up so i can attack it all at once.

So...pictures as always...

Ended up having to reinforce the leaf spring hanger location - the mount relies on the floor pan to support it, well with the floors having rusted out the mount was gradually crushing the support below the back seat. Time to fix it with a couple strips of steel spanning over the mount and attached below the rocker.


The chassis rails themselves were solid, and they got a full treatment of Navel Jelly and then a coat of Chassis Saver. This stuff is super easy to apply and is hard as nails when dry! Like...get it on your skin and it doesn't come off for days kind of tough. I still have some on the underside of my forearms. Bodes well for my chassis though...


And we get to cuttin


Green2000 working some welder magic


Pan all welded in


Welds ground down and seam sealer applied, prepped for primer


Primered


Seam sealed and Chassis saver on the entire underside. Rubberized uncoating was also sprayed on over top of everything.



So thoughts so far - cab with no carpet on one side is MUCH quieter than I anticipated now that it's all sealed up. Body feels stiffer when driving and far less creaking/shaking happening it seems. Once the sound deadener and bedliner are in it should be quite nice inside. Hope to finish the other side in coming weeks.

a_shirey

Looks awesome. So still the usual holes on the drivers side?

When you say coming weeks, does that mean it will all be done before the 19th?

dukie564

everything? probably not. I want to try and get the driver pan welded up before that though. That side is not as bad from what i've seen so should be a bit quicker to do.

a_shirey

Can we take a spin on the real road while we're up there? Curious if it compares to how loud mine was without carpet. I had that many holes too.

What days is everyone going anyway?

fritzthekatt

Why did you chose the tintable/pyroclastic vs the regular black liner?

dukie564

because i wanted it that color. price was the same for tintable base + color and black so why not? All the pictures of jeeps lined with that color look fantastic. Plus it matches my stock carpet color and the rest of the interior trim, which i plan on retaining - at least for now.

dukie564

Also picked up some deflators for the trail

94XjSport94

Looks good. Lol @ rust.

I deflate my tires by hand, takes maybe 3 minutes longer to drop to 15 psi than using those deflators