Project 'Hole in the Pocket'
#526
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
No, it's the axle side.
I'm using an aftermarket bolt with a nut, and the nut is enclosed in the factory bracket. No more flag-nut.
And, the head of the bolt is completely rounded out. I've tried notching it, and bashing an impact socket over it and tried spinning it with the chatter of an air gun. No good. The metal of the bolt is too soft.
It'll be ugly if the bolt breaks, because there's no room on the rear to put a wrench on the nut.
The only thing I haven't tried yet is welding something to the head of the bolt, and I'm afraid the bolt will break because that'll change the temper of the bolt, which is already soft.
I'm using an aftermarket bolt with a nut, and the nut is enclosed in the factory bracket. No more flag-nut.
And, the head of the bolt is completely rounded out. I've tried notching it, and bashing an impact socket over it and tried spinning it with the chatter of an air gun. No good. The metal of the bolt is too soft.
It'll be ugly if the bolt breaks, because there's no room on the rear to put a wrench on the nut.
The only thing I haven't tried yet is welding something to the head of the bolt, and I'm afraid the bolt will break because that'll change the temper of the bolt, which is already soft.
#527
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Sparks, Nv
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
No, it's the axle side. I'm using an aftermarket bolt with a nut, and the nut is enclosed in the factory bracket. No more flag-nut. And, the head of the bolt is completely rounded out. I've tried notching it, and bashing an impact socket over it and tried spinning it with the chatter of an air gun. No good. The metal of the bolt is too soft. It'll be ugly if the bolt breaks, because there's no room on the rear to put a wrench on the nut. The only thing I haven't tried yet is welding something to the head of the bolt, and I'm afraid the bolt will break because that'll change the temper of the bolt, which is already soft.
#528
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
The only thing I can possibly think of is using these if you haven't tried already they're made by Irwin I used them to get my studs out and they saved me a lot of time dealing with what you're dealing with but mine were the UCA bolts (PITA) you can find them at any auto parts store they basically tear right into the bolt.
Attachment 255002
Attachment 255002
#529
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Sparks, Nv
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I saw those right next to the extraction kit I pictured above. I basically did the same thing by hammering an impact socket over the bolt, and it just rounded the thing out. I guess I have nothing to lose from trying that set (the helix design might be better and more effective), but next step is just cutting and welding LOL.
#530
Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Mountain Town, USA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 6 Cyl
Well I just stayed up and read through all 36 pages and I gotta say, you have one of the cleanest, nicest late model XJ's on the whole forum!
Top notch my friend!
Definitely sub'd!
......and off to bed lol
Top notch my friend!
Definitely sub'd!
......and off to bed lol
#532
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I'm lucky I didn't have a vehicle fire yesterday. I guess I accidentally switched the positive and relay wires for the 12-inch light bar when putting the dash back together, and suddenly there was a bunch of smoke in the cabin when I turned it on.
I quickly ran to the garage and got the 13mm to disconnect the battery and then let it cool off, and then removed the melted wire:
I have a replacement harness on the way already!
Also, my Hi-lift jack and Lift mate came today:
The River Raider brackets to mount it behind my rear seat should be here tomorrow.
I quickly ran to the garage and got the 13mm to disconnect the battery and then let it cool off, and then removed the melted wire:
I have a replacement harness on the way already!
Also, my Hi-lift jack and Lift mate came today:
The River Raider brackets to mount it behind my rear seat should be here tomorrow.
#533
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
My new River Raider XJ rear-seat mounts for the Hi-Lift jack came via UPS today. Here they are:
Installed them one-by-one in the factory rear seat bracket locations:
And bolted up the Hi-Lift jack (it's held on by wing nuts for finger-tight holding):
I wasn't thinking my spare tire would fit... but I'll be damned... it did...
Installed them one-by-one in the factory rear seat bracket locations:
And bolted up the Hi-Lift jack (it's held on by wing nuts for finger-tight holding):
I wasn't thinking my spare tire would fit... but I'll be damned... it did...
#535
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Replacement 12-inch LED light bar wiring harness came today, as well as the Hi-lift jack handle isolator:
Also, an ATP exhaust manifold replacement to fix my cracked one:
Also, an ATP exhaust manifold replacement to fix my cracked one:
#538
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 5
From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Finally got the stripped out track bar bolt out with a shallower socket. The forged one is installed now. Also instead of using the provided bolt for the track bar, I decided to go ahead and use a factory flag nut again to prevent that from happening ever again.
Last edited by thatXJguy; 10-11-2014 at 11:19 AM.