project Rusty woody
#1
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
project Rusty woody
Well it's time to dig into the 87 Woody. I knew the old girl was rough. Now it's time to dig in for the winter project.
I have weeled this thing and get attached to my XJ's. The addiction is hard to beat. I removed the interior to address my Rusty rear floor area in front of the tires. This summer I fix the rear quarters with cut and fold to remove the rust.
This part of the project opens all kinds of new bugs.
I know some may say scrap it and buy another, but I believe fix, fix it better and wheel it again.
Has any one built rockers and also tied it in above the rear spring hanger?
I feel I may as well make it stronger.
I have thoughts of just cutting the rear spring hanger off, welding in a piece of flat metal to stiffen the frame, then build new spring hangers.
Then install my 2x5x3/16 rocker and tie it back to the frame stiffener. Also install a 2x3x3/16 above the spring perch to tie the rocker, spring perch, frame and under seat brace.
Here is the start of project Rusty woody.
I have weeled this thing and get attached to my XJ's. The addiction is hard to beat. I removed the interior to address my Rusty rear floor area in front of the tires. This summer I fix the rear quarters with cut and fold to remove the rust.
This part of the project opens all kinds of new bugs.
I know some may say scrap it and buy another, but I believe fix, fix it better and wheel it again.
Has any one built rockers and also tied it in above the rear spring hanger?
I feel I may as well make it stronger.
I have thoughts of just cutting the rear spring hanger off, welding in a piece of flat metal to stiffen the frame, then build new spring hangers.
Then install my 2x5x3/16 rocker and tie it back to the frame stiffener. Also install a 2x3x3/16 above the spring perch to tie the rocker, spring perch, frame and under seat brace.
Here is the start of project Rusty woody.
#2
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The best way to improve performance of a Jeep is to clean all the mud the PO installed. I must of 200lbs from the inner frame and rockers that rusted rear to front.
The rockers needed to go. I cut just below the lip of the rocker. then air chiseled the pinch welds on the under side of the rocker.
I wanted my set to tie in the front fenders as well. Looking for the best option to reconnect the fender.
I thought I might notch the tube, then weld a nut to it to attach the lower fender.
The rockers needed to go. I cut just below the lip of the rocker. then air chiseled the pinch welds on the under side of the rocker.
I wanted my set to tie in the front fenders as well. Looking for the best option to reconnect the fender.
I thought I might notch the tube, then weld a nut to it to attach the lower fender.
#3
i agree with the not scraping fix it better than before plus itll look different from other cherokees except mine i did almost the samr things i wouldnt have put it behind the fender though like you did but im curious to see what the end result will look like. heres what i did/
#4
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I am currently mocking up the rocker. I have 2x5" tube that is a little smaller then most guys using a 2x6.
It fits almost flush withe body line. I think I will weld a 1.5" round tube along side for any side impacts, and cage building.
The reason I went all the way past the front door was to weld the slider in place to the bottom side of the A piller. I will have to notch my fender a little.
At it's current location it is the same height as the stock rocker. I have thought of raising it and cut out more of the upper rocker portion. Then weld the "A" "B" pillers to this. I am hesitant as It would open up ever more projects by cutting the doors down.
Sometimes I hear my wife's voice making my Check sheet of thing to "stay on task"
My main goal is rust repair, Rocker protection.
How did you weld up the under side?
Did you fold the pinch seam over and hammer it down to the tube and weld it up? or did you use flat metal to bridge the gap?
It fits almost flush withe body line. I think I will weld a 1.5" round tube along side for any side impacts, and cage building.
The reason I went all the way past the front door was to weld the slider in place to the bottom side of the A piller. I will have to notch my fender a little.
At it's current location it is the same height as the stock rocker. I have thought of raising it and cut out more of the upper rocker portion. Then weld the "A" "B" pillers to this. I am hesitant as It would open up ever more projects by cutting the doors down.
Sometimes I hear my wife's voice making my Check sheet of thing to "stay on task"
My main goal is rust repair, Rocker protection.
How did you weld up the under side?
Did you fold the pinch seam over and hammer it down to the tube and weld it up? or did you use flat metal to bridge the gap?
Last edited by Lowes; 11-29-2012 at 12:18 AM.
#5
i welded braces to the frame maybe not the best way but it is way stronger now then before and i left about a 1/4 inch of the rocker where it wasnt rusted out and hammer and dollied it. heres some progress pics to show how i welded it.
#7
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Did you your doors fit well with the thin metal over lay?
I have plans to do the same way.
Here is how I did the fender tuck.
I cut a 1" notch on the top side of tube. 1 1/2" notch on the bottom tube to allow the fender to fold under the tube. I drilled and welded a nut inside the tube to allow me to bolt my fender to the underside of the tube.
I have plans to do the same way.
Here is how I did the fender tuck.
I cut a 1" notch on the top side of tube. 1 1/2" notch on the bottom tube to allow the fender to fold under the tube. I drilled and welded a nut inside the tube to allow me to bolt my fender to the underside of the tube.
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#9
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I welded 3/8 x 2" metal to the rocker to give a little side protection. Used 1 3/4 tube to make spacers.
Last edited by Lowes; 12-20-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#10
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Making bumper for rear. I would like to make this so I can also adapt a shackle relocation bracket.
My bumper mounting brackets are gone. So I cut out the frame section to slide a 3/8 x 2" steal inside the frame rail. Then using the bolts hole from tow hitch in frame rail I also put a piece of 3/16 steal under the frame. Welded nuts to the inner flat metal to tie everything together.
My bumper mounting brackets are gone. So I cut out the frame section to slide a 3/8 x 2" steal inside the frame rail. Then using the bolts hole from tow hitch in frame rail I also put a piece of 3/16 steal under the frame. Welded nuts to the inner flat metal to tie everything together.
#12
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
looks great... glad to hear you are saving the waggy instead of scrapping it i believe just like you... its also a rare jeep anymore pictures of it?
#13
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 72
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From: Trinidad Tx
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i agree with the not scraping fix it better than before plus itll look different from other cherokees except mine i did almost the samr things i wouldnt have put it behind the fender though like you did but im curious to see what the end result will look like. heres what i did/
#14
Love those Woodies, I like the sliders. I can't weld to save my life, but a friend of mine is really good & gonna fab up some sliders. I like the look of the 2x5 instead of the 2x6. Keep the pictures commin so i can take some notes.....
#15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 170
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From: Mid MO
Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just love the woody look. Thought it terrible as kid, but it grows on you. This thing will never die, only modify. The old woody spent a few hard trips in the badlands. Here is a link to one of my favorite videos:
The tires are Micky Tompson Baja MTZ. They have done very well.
As for the build I would like to change the rear leaf springs. The PO but Bastard Bastard back. I would judge the rear lift at 4.5". Not very flexy. I would like to use Dodge Dakota springs. A little longer and hopefully when I make the shackle relocation will flex much better.
The front is Rusty's coil spring spacers. I have 3" Rusty's coil springs to replace them with.
I would like to try Jeep liberty rear control arms for the front lower control arms on this. They are 17" eye to eye and will push the axle forward. Then I will buy/build some uppers to get the correct pinion angle.
Other mods are front bumper, shock relocation for greater ground clearance. But mostly getting the old girl's body back to a youthfull figure.
The tires are Micky Tompson Baja MTZ. They have done very well.
As for the build I would like to change the rear leaf springs. The PO but Bastard Bastard back. I would judge the rear lift at 4.5". Not very flexy. I would like to use Dodge Dakota springs. A little longer and hopefully when I make the shackle relocation will flex much better.
The front is Rusty's coil spring spacers. I have 3" Rusty's coil springs to replace them with.
I would like to try Jeep liberty rear control arms for the front lower control arms on this. They are 17" eye to eye and will push the axle forward. Then I will buy/build some uppers to get the correct pinion angle.
Other mods are front bumper, shock relocation for greater ground clearance. But mostly getting the old girl's body back to a youthfull figure.
Last edited by Lowes; 12-22-2012 at 03:25 PM.