ok thanks I need to pull a overhead console my new one doesn't have one. Guess what I'm going to start in a couple weeks

 

you gonna chop this one to?

 

😏 nooooooo lol

 

lift?

any who im bored so i thought id post up my plans from now to spring(ish)

-volvo fan/wiring and flow cooler pump
-explorer trans cooler on aux fan side of radiator
-ATF drain and fill
-pull/sell tail bone/re-install hitch/ possibly buy new jcr rear bumper or stock replacement from JY
-hack'n'tap SYE/ remove t-case drop/ fix exhaust once and for all
-wj steering pump/pwr steering fluid cooler
-trans fluid temp gauge
-aux coolant fan gauge cause im tired of faulty OEM senders
-WJ swap
-RK 3-link

thinking about lowering the jeep back down to about 4/4.5'' of lift shes sitting about 5.5" or so right now. im going to be picking up a set of oem xj springs soon and will rebuild in a bastard pack them dukie style with graphite paine and full length leaf liners. im going to play with the leaves some and hopefully end up with a 2.5-3'' pack that will flex and ride super well i wanted to do this the first time around but i was lazy and just kept bastardizing my worn out stock packs with shot bushings. the front id just pull the 1.5 spacers and call it good. the bumper will pull the front down .5" of an inch or so. the biggest problem i have is the shocks. id have to buy new shocks since mine are maxed out on up travel and new bilstein 5150s all around wont be cheep

or i could just leave it as is... i still want to build new leaf packs for sure tho

ive been doing some thinking about the engine to,

option 1: 5.3L swap

this is what i will end up with some day for sure but its just not in the cards, im fixing to live on my own soon and wont have the time or money to have my dd down for however long it takes to swap the motor in if i was patient i could probably do the swap for the cost of a poor mans stroker but thats not the point lol

option 2: top end rebuild

ive had a valve tick for some time so i think its time to do a top end over haul the plan would be; 7120 ported and polished head with valve job/new seals, 1.6 roller rockers, new lifters, gasket matched 99 intake/head, new header that doesnt leak, 62 mm TB(have), performance head gasket. i think that this would freshen up my motor a bit and give me some more oomph at the same time but all the rod/ cranck bearing would be origional as well as the rings which im sure are pretty worn at almost 237k

option 3: 4.6 stroker

this guess is the ideal option but ive never built a motor before and i dont want to screw it up id basicly do the same top end stuff but with a strocker long block with 258 crank and rods with a .020 over bore and keith black pistons. id also run the lighter weight crank since i spend a ton of time on the high way

 

Lol ya I'm doing another chop. I need to come by so you can show me how to go doorless

 

what year is yours?

 

2001

 

volvo swap is a go!

this set up works exactly like i hoped it would. the hard part was trimming the fan to fit, but i made quick work of it with the grinder.

total parts list:
-mid ninteys volvo cooling fan(not model specific)

-mid ninteys volvo cooling fan controller and as much wiring as you can scavange from said volvo

-early ninties Saab 900 thermo switch t-housing from upper radiator hose(this was not easy to find)

-Beck Arnley 201-1266 Thermo Fan Switch(i bought this new) switches on low at 205 and high at 215, dont get much more perfect than that

-pig tail for the thermo switch from an ancient VW or Audi( the one i bought was too corroded to use so i ended up spading each wire to each terminal on the thermo-switch instead of the fancy looking plug

-a high amp relay to trigger fan power at will, i bought a 50amp bosch relay but you dont need one that fancy, i just wanted to make sure it can handle the high power demand of this fan.

i ran out of day light today but as of right now i just need to re-run the ground wire for the thermo-switch and cleen up the res of the wiring and mount the controller, right now its zip tied to my battery

i only had 2 issues swapping to this wireing:
1) i didnt push the volvo fan over enough so i had to tap a new hole for the aux fan to mount to, no big deal its only like a 1/4" off

2)the thermo switch-pigtail i picked up off an 86 VW golf had very corroded terminals and would barely make a connection so i ended up putting individual spades of each wire going to the switch and pluging them in to the propper terminal, doesnt look as good but oh well.

all in all i wish i had wired it this way from the start, everything can be easily unplugged and replaced now unlike before when everything was hard wired

everything works great to i let it run for about half an hour or so and the fan cycled like it should, it never even hit high fan but its not hot today either

ill stop rambling now lol

would any one be interested in a full write up? might post one if some people are interested

 

more or less how i wired it. the switch will be a 3 position manual switch ground so that i can switch the hi fan on whenever i want to, yet still have it operate normaly in the other position, almost exactly how my aux fan switch is wired.

whipped this up in paint


im also going to have indicators for normal circuit operation, low fan on, and high fan on so i can see what the fan is doing



EDIT: i realize i flipped the wires going to the switch around, the wire coming from the volvo relay should be going to the supply post on the switch and the wire going to the thermo switch should go to one of the switched post's. the way i drew it would be switching ground to the post on the switch not the relay were the ground matters

 

the manual switch power and ground wire decided to become uncrimped in theyre spades today and kill power to to fan causing an over heat, shes ok tho she managed to stay under 230 since its cool out. i crimped the crap out of the new spades so we're good to go there

i think im might have to switch to the BMW switch (195* low 210 high) cause i think the porsche switch kicks high to late since im constantly running 215+ before the high fan kicks on.

im going to try a couple things first since theyve already cost me the money
1)toss on the flowkooler water pump ive had sitting on my shelf for almost a year
2) shroud the lowerhalf of the fan so air is only pulled through the radiator

if those dont work ill have to switch to the bmw switch and pig tail. with a new adapter housing, id rather not spend the $$ on that but i will if i have to

im also going to add indicator lights to tell me when the fan circuit is active, when the low fan is on, and when the high fan is on, just for future peace of mind, the high fan override will be put in soon to

 

got the high fan over ride switch wired up today and all my led indicators, the blue one is pretty friggen bright, annoyingly so. not sure what to do about it at this point.

i also ran all the wireing through the left over red conduit engine bays looking much cleaner

out of curiosity i pulled my stock clutch fan shroud out of my shed and fitted it agains the old taurus fan and it fit damn near perfect in the shroud...and then i broke it.... so im going to grab one from the JY and fit the volvo fan in there

next week ill hopefully get my water pump put in

 

Well after reading several hours over the course of 3-4 days I just finished your build and I gotta say......whoa. Sweet build man! I will be using some of your mods thats for sure!

Subd!


Oh btw......PM me how much for your rear bumper/carrier and when?

 

Fan looks good, I've been meaning to do mine for 5 years now...

 

MOD EVERYTHING!! lol

i highly recomend it as long as you upgrade the alt as well, i bought mine new but they can be had at the JY for 40$

will be picking up a new shroud tomorrow and will hopefully get that installed when i get home fromthe JY

tried getting my temp gauge to work todaay but the jeep aint cooperating with me. ill probably end up swaping in an after market gauge

 

I GOT THE GAUGE WORKING!!

apparently the sender had to be grounded so i wrapped a wire around the sender and connected it to battery - and it kicked on

i made my own heater hose adapter out of a 3/8npt "T" fitting 2) 1" 3/8npt nipples, and a 3/8 to 1/8 NPT reducer to fit the sender, plumbing cost me 10$ and 11$ for the new sender as opposed to 35$ for the autometer adapter and 52 for the gauge i wanted

jeep runs 215+ right now, hopefully properly shrouding the fan will help a lot, and the flowkooler pump as well, who knows when ill have time for that.