Trail fit the coil spring retainer clip, stripped thread are common. Easier to tap without the coil springs. You should just go ahead and re tap to a bigger size.

 

Oh, here is the ZJ parts as well as the Draglink Bushings i used.

>#DS1312 Tierod
>#ES3096 Tierod End
>#ES2079S Adjuster Sleeve
>#9.13103G Energy Draglink Bushings

 

Thanks man. I thought I ordered them when I was at work but I guess it never went through online.

 

I got from AZ.
Including swaybar/frame bushing....Energy #9.5161R (a waste of $ imho).
Oh, might as well give you the trackbar bushing set ...#2.7102

 

Yea I wasn't a fan of the Energy Suspension ones I put on my last XJ, but I really need new ones for this project. The ES ones were a pain with discos and I had to open the mounting holes with a dremel just to get them to line up.

Conclusion: ordering factory swaybar/frame bushings.

And I had to take a break form working on the Jeep the past few hours. My back was killing me, so hopefully this muscle relaxer kicks in because I want to get back to working on it!

 

Driver side LCA chassis bolt.




LCA axle bushing is shot.

 

I worked on the front end off and on for about 4 hours today. Injured my back installing the passenger spring so I took a break and passed out watching Nascar haha.

The result of cutting the control arm bolts.


Cleaned with brake cleaner and applied anti seize to the new bolt and sleeve.
Reinstall control arm, frame side first.
Install coil spring. Had to use a coil compressor to get the spring in. Then install control arm to axle.


Install shock.


Front end is finished minus the adjustable track bar, longer brake lines and quick disconnects.

 

Well, after a very long break due to my back injury I have started working on it again.

Per my doctor, I was asked not to do any strenuous activities. None. Anything that would involve me lifting, twisting or using my back muscles... pfft. I didn't listen of course and ended up going back two days later! At only 26 years old and this kind of stuff should not be happening to me but oh well, back to the build!

I removed my entire trac bar including the bracket. I didn't take any pictures of my progress since my last post. Removing the bracket with the coils in takes some maneuvering and prying to get it off the studs. It finally came out, and I was debating on removing the entire steering setup while I was at it. I still don't have my ZJ upgraded steering, I was hoping it would be here today, so I held off on removing it until the new parts arrived.

I decided to replace my hub bearings since I have those. There is a good write up here
HUB ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

I started my air compressor, since it takes forever to fill up, and got to work on removing the (3) 12-point 13mm hub bolts. These are a PITA without the proper knowledge and tools. This isn't the first one I have done on a Jeep so I knew what I was getting myself into. Especially if there is any sign of rust ANYWHERE around the hub. Luckily the bolts were soaking in PB Blaster since I bought the Jeep

13mm 12-point 3/8" socket. 3/8" breaker bar. Rubber mallet/dead blow hammer. Position the breaker bar on the bolt, hold with one hand and smack it with the rubber mallet. This will take a few hard hits to move. Do this to all 3 bolts on both sides. I have never had one break on me, but I have seen them break before. Good thing the XJ hub is threaded, makes removal easier. I didn't remove the bolts all the way yet. My compressor was filled, I grabbed my impact and pulled the air hose to position... went to my tool box where I keep all my impact sockets and searched for a few minutes for my 36mm socket.
WTF! I am missing my 36mm socket! The spot on my socket rail is empty. I haven't used it for a long time obviously. I went through every damn drawer with no luck. Then I remembered, I loaned it to my buddy in Utah when we did the gears on his TJ! But that was in 2006! So now I am 500 miles away without my socket. And I have to buy another one because he can't find it either... these things are a pain to track down too. I called Sears with no luck, even the auto parts stores don't have them. Not even Harbor Freight!

So that ends my journey for the day, maybe the week. Unless I decide to tackle the dreadful leaf spring bolts later. Hopefully I can find another socket tomorrow and finish the hub replacement.

You will be missed Snap-On 36mm 1/2" drive impact socket... maybe one day you will return to my tool box.

 

Go to O'reilly.....free loaner.
Part# 67041 (36mm)

 

They didn't have it in stock. Special order rental part. But I bought one at a local tool store for $30. A little steep I think but its a SK impact socket with warranty.

 

Replaced both front hubs finally!

Passenger side took about 2 hours or so. Driver side took 20 minutes

With the right tools laid out and my compressor filled, I conquered that hub bearing. Removed, cleaned, greased and installed! Fastest time for me and this wasn't even on a lift (like most of us who work in the comfort of our garage or driveway).

I used a puller on the driver side. I gave up on the chisel method like one of the links said to do, never did that before and gave it a shot but ended up damaging my brake dust shield on the passenger side... oh well, who needs it anyways

I advise to leave it on, but my bagged Silverado didn't have one and neither did my TJ. Never had any problems without it.

So, pictures will be up later but here is a condensed write up without the pics for now...
1. Safely support vehicle on jack stands and remove tires (most of us should be able to skip this whole step and get right to the hub replacement).
2. Removal of brakes. 12mm socket or wrence. Remove brake caliper and secure with bungee cord out of the way. Remove brake rotor.
3. Remove cotter pin on axle and discard. Remove castle nut and spring washer. Set aside for re-install.
4. Hub removal. 13mm 12-point socket or wrench. Remove 3 hub bolts and set aside for re-install. 3/8" impact took me a few seconds to remove all 3 bolts.
5. 36mm impact socket or equivalent. Remove axle nut. Impact takes about a couple seconds and it is off. Remove axle nut and washer.
6. 2-jaw puller centered over hub bearing. Using impact to tighten puller, the hub came off within a few seconds. This was a lot easier than the chisel method I tried on the passenger side.
7. Carefully remove hub bearing assembly. Clean spindle area (where the bearing sits) with emery cloth to remove surface rust.
8. Put a thin layer of anti seize on the spindle where the hub bearing sits.
9. Put anti seize on the axle shaft splines as well.
10. Put anti seize on the 3 hub bolts prior to installation.
11. Install hub bearing and lightly tap it into place with a rubber mallet. Make sure the 3 holes are lined up.
12. Install 3 hub bolts. Torque to 75 ft-lbs.
13. Install axle nut and washer. Torque to 175 ft-lbs.
14. Install castle nut and spring washer. Put new cotter pin as well.
15. Install brake rotor and caliper.
16. Install tire and lower vehicle. Torque specs will vary depending on wheels.

 

Front tires are on! Finally! Still waiting on my trackbar and steering components... it had been a few days past already but I guess AZ is waiting on a backorder for the upgraded ZJ steering. And my RC adjustable should be here soon.

Right now I am sitting at roughly 5" in the front. Gonna take a new fender height measurement tomorrow after I let it settle over night. And I found out the coils are Rusty's not RC like I had thought. But the shocks are RC I think. Not completely sure on those. CL find and some traded parts and I end up with a pieced together lift lol.

 

Driver leaf spring is out, finally! Will post pictures of that PITA later. Worked on it Sunday for a few hours and finally got the remaining bolts out. All but one stubborn shackle to frame bolt. It is seized in the sleeve now.

 

Cut the leaf spring out.


Main leaf cut with a 4" cut off wheel.


This is as far as the rear shackle frame bolt will come out.


Broken main eye bolt.


Main eye bushing/sleeve



What is left of the broken bolt.


BURN IT! Actually just heat it up enough to where it is glowing red, then spray penetrating fluid as it cools. The metal contraction will suck the fluid in and create an immense amount of smoke.


The remaining part of the bolt.



Remove it while it is still hot. The metal gets soft so make sure you have a tight grip on it with either vice grips or a pipe wrench.

And the how the front sits on 235/75s

 

RC track bar drop bracket.


I installed the adjustable track bar and never took a picture... so tomorrow I will upload some. A drop pitman arm is needed, per RC. Only 1-1/2" drop is needed so a ZJ pitman arm will work if I can find one at the junk yard or if anyone knows of one for sale/free

Easy to install. Remove 2 nuts on chassis side and 2 bolts underneath with a 18mm wrench/socket. 15mm on the axle side and toss the entire track bar and bracket to the side. Mount bracket to chassis using old hardware. Insert track bar (bushing side to chassis) and finger tighten the bolt. Adjust track bar on axle side until axle is centered, by loosening the jam nut and turning the spherical rod end until it lines up with the mounting point. Tighten jam nut and install to axle mount. Torque all hardware to proper specs.

I read that the track bar is 55ft-lbs on axle and bracket. And 75ft-lbs on the bracket. Can someone verify?