01 Jeep Grand Cheroke Laredo ac issues
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01 Jeep Grand Cheroke Laredo ac issues
Hey all,
I am having issues with my ac in my Jeep. In the morning, the ac blows cold and works on my drive to work, about 15 -20 miles. When I leave from work, it is blowing cold, but as I drive it slowly goes from cold air to warm air. What could be causing this issue.
Also, when I have it set on low, it seems as if no air is coming out. I don't know if that is related to the above issue, but thought I would mention that. It is like that with either heat or ac running. Also, heat runs just fine.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I am having issues with my ac in my Jeep. In the morning, the ac blows cold and works on my drive to work, about 15 -20 miles. When I leave from work, it is blowing cold, but as I drive it slowly goes from cold air to warm air. What could be causing this issue.
Also, when I have it set on low, it seems as if no air is coming out. I don't know if that is related to the above issue, but thought I would mention that. It is like that with either heat or ac running. Also, heat runs just fine.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Last edited by kleerfyre; 04-21-2014 at 03:13 PM.
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No noises are coming from the compressor. I did notice that my pulley wasn't moving at all. I know that it moves some, but I watched it for quite a while and it never kicked in. I checked it this morning and after a minute or two it kicked on and the pulley started spinning. Any ideas???
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Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I believe, but I am not certain about this, I think Chryslers had issues with a clutch and coil assembly on the compressors however, I am certain that they usually make noise (usually lots of noise) when they go bad. With that said, I suggest you try to find out a little more about that clutch coil assembly as it will save you $$$ if it can be replaced vs. replacing the entire compressor. I think in your case the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced. Also, possibly a pressure switch. Is the system fully charged? If not check for leaks, fix and recharge.
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What you should really be doing is checking for voltage at the compressor especially during the periods when the compressor wont run. That way you can eliminate any electrical issues. If you have a low charge issue the compressor would be cycling on and off very frequently. Based your posts that is not happening (correct me if Im wrong). Therefore if there is voltage present at the compressors connection and it will not turn on you should be looking at the compressor as you've already confirmed at times is not running.
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As far as I know, the system is fully charged. Would a bad compressor continue to do this everyday? It has been doing this same thing for over a year. Someone who has a shop told me that it could be the cooling fan relay, but I haven't found anything to support this. I didn't want to go through cutting a hole in my bumper under the passenger headlight if this wasn't the true problem. I will check the voltage when I can hopefully tonight. What should the normal range for it be?
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As far as you know it's fully charged? Ok, with that said, let me say that working on the ac is usually a job reserved for trained personnel. I'm not in anyway trying to talk down to you but you do need to keep in mind that you are dealing with high pressure and refrigerant that needs to be captured and evacuated whenever you replace parts. I am only giving you some simple items to check. Any mechanic is going to ensure proper charge and voltage at the compressor before proceeding with any other diagnosis. When you check the voltage at the compressor it should be reading 11.5-12.5 slightly higher is ok. One more possible issue could be the air gap shims behind the clutch assembly. The main symptom is that when the vehicle is cold, you have AC but as it warms up, you lose the ac as the compressor clutch releases. Here is what to try after you have checked the voltage. Next time you have the engine hot and the clutch will not pull in and engage on the compressor, try taping it (the compressor not the clutch) with a rubber mallet. If the clutch engages, it could mean you need to remove a shim behind the clutch. If this is the case, you can do this job without having to evacuate the system and for zero dollars if you have the right tools. Report back your findings and we'll go from there.
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