GOT IT!!!!!
thanks to everyone for the posts, turns out the CPS was bad. $42.99 at AutoZone and 1/2 hour later I'm back on the road. Thanks again to all who gave the tips and pointers to look for that leads to the CPS being bad.

 

I'm glad you've found out the problem but it took you so long, any way enjoy driving Jeep,




Cheers mate

 

i have a similar problem only mine only does it after an hour of the car running i have notice that when it shuts down none of the gauges work not even the baterry one but all electronics do even if i try to start it it cranks just does not start and after about 15 to 20 minutes all the gauges work again and the car runs like nothing has append

 

i have kind of simulate the problem first i left my cherokee runing about an hour and nothing happend then i started to remove first the ASD relay (38) and it wont start but the gauges work so not the simptoms then i put the relay back and remove the TCM (31) same thing, put it back and then remove the PCM BATTERY (19) fuse and voila the gauges did the exact same thing they do when it shuts down. still have not found how to fix but i think its closer maybe someone can help us with this info. thanks

 

EDWARD.RAMEY & mizquiz...try replacing the cps. its mounted on top of the transmission. if u follow the plug(mine 2000 grand cherokee ran on passenger side down behind motor to the driverside top of tranny) and unplug it, your volt meter and gas gauge should work when u turn the key forward, assuming that they dont work with it plugged in. it sounds as if its going bad, it just hasnt completley died yet. it gets hot stops working, cools down and runs again. even if you went to a salvage yard and put in a used one its worth the 1/2 hr to hour to see if yours is malfunctioning, it shouldnt cost too musch for a "used" one. new is lifetime warranty at autozone.

 

Thanks mikemissy97 i have changed the CPS and it's still doing the same thing it even does it more often than before, could it be than the CPS i used its also bad (new from autozone)

 

mizquiz,
Usually when the key with the circle around it lights up its referencing a security problem, it sounds like something is going on making your Jeep think its getting stolen when it actually isnt. Have you pulled the diagnostic codes on it yet? If you key the car to the "on" position 3 times, and on the 3rd time you stop your should get the P-Codes ( powertrain codes ) displaying on the dash where the digital odometer is. Check that first and see what numbers pop up, if your crank position sensor is going bad or intermittent you will get a code for that, also if you have a 4.7 Litre engine those actually rely on 2 sensor inputs to start, there is a Crankshaft sensor that bolts to the engine block and is buried behind the starter, and then there is a camshaft sensor that is on the front cylinder head on the passenger side of the vehicle as well. The computer needs to get a signal from both of them in order to engage the ASD relay so that your fuel pump, coil packs etc. will work and your car will run.

If you think your not getting fuel all you have to do is key the car on and listen for a "whirring" sound for a second or too ( that is your fuel pump priming the system ). If you don't hear that then it could possibly be the fuel pump, or the wiring to it, even if the Crank/Cam/or ASD is bad you will still get a second or 2 of whirring when you key the car to "on" ( not start ). After that, an easy check is to unplug the fuel pump connector and check the leads to your fuel pump with a volt meter, if you probe the positive and negative ends and have someone key the car on you should be able to see a voltage spike for a bit what will then go back to 0V at that connector. When my car died on me, I thought it was the fuel pump or the relays so I ended up replacing all that stuff...it turned out to be the actual connector, even though it was connected power for some reason was not getting transferred across the terminals to the pump. 10$ for a couple 2-pin connectors, and some soldering and I was back in business.

Checking relays is easy too...all you need is a AA battery in a housing like you get at radio shack with (+) and (-) leads. If you pull the relay and supply that voltage to the control circuit in the relay you should hear a "click" ( thats the battery energizing the magnetic field to close the conatcts in the relay, if you don't hear a "click" then the relay is bad (just make sure your putting power to the correct circuit ).

In addition another thing to look at ( if you have one ), is your remote starter. I have an aftermarket one in my 99 Limited ( 4.7L ), and something isn't right with it that causes the computer to think its getting stolen. so every now and then my freakin alarm will go off while I'm driving, or the gauges die on me, or the dorrs keep automatically locking....its freakin annoying. As soon as I have enough ambition I'm going to have it removed or disabled. I don't know if you have a remote starter but its another thing to consider.

Keep me posted on your developments and I'll keep an eye out on the forums...

Regards,

 

ill try replacing the cam sensor and will post the results, i dont think its a security problem giving it only happens when its hot or has been iddling for a long time, i have to cross the border to mexico frecuently and it only has happend when im waiting to cross back and im sorrounded with cars it will take about an hour before its starts to fail

 

i had replace the cam sensor and tought that was it because i week had past by and everything was good but yesterdar it started to do fail again, but one more symptom had appear now i notice that white smoke cames out of it with a little smell like raw gas, somebody told me it was running to rich on gas, they also told me it could be the head gaskets, so ill do a pressure test on the cylinders and another test with some blue liquid that if it changes color to yellow its defenetly the head gasket according to a master mechanic i spoke about it


will keep posting my results

 

i just bought a 1999 jeep grand cherokee limited and im having the same problem want start with crossed key icon did you ever find out how to fix this

 

Ok Everyone who posted and helped me with my engine swap issues...I have finally gotten My Jeep back on the road.*After months of headaches and trying just about Anything, I had to take the jeep to the dealership; and for the"small fee" of $395 I got a new key w the chip in it and my PCM to communicate w engine... However that still did not fix jeep; the problem was with the ASD relay from the PDC; A wire was broke and had to be replaced! The ASD (Automatic Shutdown) was not communicating w the PCM and after replacing wire THE JEEP RUNS BEAUTIFULLY! No more SKIM issue and/or PCM Issue. I no longer have the key void on dash and jeep runs perfectly! The ASD was not allowing the fuel pump or the coil rail to spark; thereby giving me months of Pain in the Asssets; However I have a new key and jeep is fixed!*THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO POSTED & HELPED ME ALONG THE WAY!

Go back and read My posts and you'll see I had ALL same Issues but ASD was problem.

 

Anyone here ever have any tips or tricks on dropping a fuel tank on a Grand Cherokee with a skid plate and receiver hitch. I found out yesterday that the root of all my problems is my fuel pump.

 

Hi guys I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited In order for me to drop my gas tank I have a receiver hitch skid plate then the gas tank What have you all used to get at the bolts that are inside the frame I had to remove my bumper caps If I can't get any advice I'm going to use either a cut off wheel or a cutting torch Then just buy new bolts

 

My jeep won't start I have the skis light on no power to fuel pump no spark all relays are good no codes replaced cps and ckps. Also I couldn't pull any codes so I pulled comp to see what the issue was had a little damage on circuit board gonna order new one but still think it won't fix my problem. Jeep only cranks. Can I order a new skis sensor already programmed? Fuel pump work jumped it. Getting no power to pump. Help

 

It is my understanding that the SKIS has to be programmed by the dealer to your keys or new keys. This sensor reads the chip in the key and will not allow the engine to start unless the code in the key and the programmed code on the sensor match. There has been some chatter about static electric discharge knocking out the sensor codes, but IDK if that's your problem. Also, if the sensor looses it's power, the PCM doesn't get the info from it and won't allow the start. Ain't electronics fun?