Hi...
I got all the necessary steps complete.(just to avoid un-needed responses)

The truck is up, the y-pipe is disconnected from ex-manis, ect...

The 18 bolts are out from the oil pan. It took a bit, but the pan is pryed down about 1/2 inch all around, but it won't drop any further. Chilton's doesn't mention any other connections to remove...Please help.

 

The oil pick up tube could be catching the flange inside the bottom of the pan.
if thats the case then you may have to do some wiggling to get it off.

 

Btw Welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks Dan....What part of CT...

I found that the gasket,windage tray need to separated from the pan. What a *****. No room to smack a hammer to chisel it off. I'm about 90% done but the last 8inches are very tough. (Tight space) When my arms recover from hammering, I will report back....

 

Welcome to CF. Chiltons' sucks.
Did you remove the starter? The manual says to remove the oil pump pick-up tube (as Dan stated), and the pan gasket/windage tray from the block.
Also the trans. to oil pan support brace.

 

How important is the windage tray, and what does it actually do? It was such a ***** separating it from the oil pan itself. I can straighten it out and use some black RTV, but If it's not absolutely necessary, can I omit it?. I had to replace a piston, that is why I had to remove it in the first place....

 

2004 overland4.7

update!: i got it off! had to sharp putty knife it between pan and gasket not gasket and engine.

 

I just did my oil Pan gasket last night. THe same thing happened to me, it was caught on the starter. The book said to remove the starter, of course I am a guy with a wrench so obviously I didnt read the book first! Anyway, I found that will a lil bit of wiggling, i didnt need to remove the starter. I got it out and back in with the starter in place. Remember, its all metal, if your just using your hands, you wont hurt anything. Now I have to say that i have 4.0 so I dont have any issues with the cross pipe and I am not really sure how close the starter is to the pan.

 

Exhaust manifold in the way of getting a bolt out of the oil pan---Do I need to remove the manifold--its a 2000 cherokee sport---I really hope not.

 

Is the oil pan gasket a one piece gasket? When they put my motor on last year he didn't seat the gasket property under the timing chain housing. It just started leaking. When I went to change my oil I noticed the gasket behind the crank pulley sticking out and that's where my oil is coming from.

 

My driveway looks like the Exxon Valdez slithered thru there. Seems the culprit was a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, loaded w the invaluable 4.7 oilpan from hell. After working at a large used car lot in Wi, I've seen MANY of these oil pans with various "do it yourself" repairs. JB weld, actual welding of patches to pan while on vehicle, bondo, even patches that will supposedly adhere to rust and oil. Most of those miracle solutions contain 17% bull semen. Give it up. The job is NOT that difficult if you don't try "what the guy next doors brother in law did 9 years ago. I did another one last night, 2000 jeep gc with 4.7 First, pull out dipstick.(it will be in way when putting pan back on). Drain oil. Remove the trans to lower block brace, taking bolts out of trans first, then the 4 going straight up into block. This will reveal 4 more hidden oil pan bolts. Next, since you will inevitably end up using a splice for Y pipe someplace, so cut the crossover pipe in middle behind oil pan. Then, just take out the 2 bolts from exhaust flange on drivers side, which are alot easier than the right side. Besides not having to pull the starter out, you only risk breaking 2 studs vs 4. Remove oilpan bolts. wallah! Oil pan will then come off with a bit of rven prying around the lip. Then the 2 bolts near pick up tube, one halfway towards the front, and the one that goes up inside lower block right where the tube goes in. Remove windage tray. Our gasket was a one piece moulded unit, windage tray and o ring for pickup tube included. Set windage tray in position, put pickup tube w new o ring on, but dont tighten the bolts! Install 2 oilpan bolts into windage tray, one on each side, leave them loose.... to insure the gasket/tray wont move around while tightening the pickup tube nuts and bolt. Once tube is tight, remove the 2 oilpan bolts you used as alighnment pins. Then re install the new oilpan. Then install trans/engine support bracket, putting the 4 bolts into the block first....for obvious reasons, the trans bolts in last. Then I used a 2" o/d pipe about 4" long to couple the cut y pipe, re installed 2 flange bolts, then clamped up the splice. Done. This is the 3rd one done, all the same fashion. Easy peasy, no bull semen needed. It sounds intimidating, but its really not too hatd at all. I think not having to risk pulling the whole Y pipe and breaking the pass side flange bolts is the key. Good luck......

 

was this 4x4?