2000 wj limited runs sometimes, electrical problems
#1
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Thread Starter
2000 wj limited runs sometimes, electrical problems
I have a 2000 wj limited 4.7 that I recently acquired. It has about 250000 miles on it.
The vehicle runs and drive fine when I can get it to start. All the electronics work, lights radio etc and it will turn over when I try to crank it. The problem is I will put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and it will only read 9v on the gauge, I will try to start it, the starter works but no fire. I can do that for a while with nothing changing. Then for some reason the gauge will randomly go up to 14 v and start no problem and sound/run great. Has anyone had a issue like this before or know the best way to go about diagnosing and trying to find a fix to this problem or where I should start Eliminating possibilities. All help is greatly appreciated!
The vehicle runs and drive fine when I can get it to start. All the electronics work, lights radio etc and it will turn over when I try to crank it. The problem is I will put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and it will only read 9v on the gauge, I will try to start it, the starter works but no fire. I can do that for a while with nothing changing. Then for some reason the gauge will randomly go up to 14 v and start no problem and sound/run great. Has anyone had a issue like this before or know the best way to go about diagnosing and trying to find a fix to this problem or where I should start Eliminating possibilities. All help is greatly appreciated!
#2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Welcome to the forum, Damien!
Sounds like classic bad cables. Either the battery terminals, the cables, or the other end. Clean 'em up! Replace as needed. Do not use those El Cheapo battery cable ends you see in the auto parts stores and grocery stores.
Start inspecting and cleaning as you go. Take every connection apart (one at a time) and CLEAN it to bare, shiny metal. Pull, push, tug and shove on every battery cable. Corrosion can wick up the cable and do a lot of damage inside, out of sight.
Sounds like classic bad cables. Either the battery terminals, the cables, or the other end. Clean 'em up! Replace as needed. Do not use those El Cheapo battery cable ends you see in the auto parts stores and grocery stores.
Start inspecting and cleaning as you go. Take every connection apart (one at a time) and CLEAN it to bare, shiny metal. Pull, push, tug and shove on every battery cable. Corrosion can wick up the cable and do a lot of damage inside, out of sight.
The following users liked this post:
BlueRidgeMark (07-20-2020)
#4
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Thread Starter
I’ve clean 3 grounds I found on the engine bay, and the power cable the goes to the fuse box and replace the cable terminals. For the past few days I wasn’t getting the fuel gauge and volt gauge to work but yesterday I pushed and pulled and bent those positive wires and got it to start 3 or 4 times so I’m going to replace those cables and see if that fixed the issue. I also bought a volt meter, fuel pressure tester and spark tester if the cables arnt the issue. Would this wire be a good replacement wire for the power cables?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNat...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNat...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Last edited by Damien McKeown; 07-24-2020 at 07:44 PM.
#5
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I"m not sure on the 4.7. My guess would be yes.
How do you plan on attaching the terminals?
One option is to get wires custom made by BestBoatWire.com. Just match what you already have, or, if you want, go up one gauge size (like 6 to 4). Don't go crazy big - there's really no benefit and it's a pain to work with.
I have gotten quite a few cables from them, and the quality is first rate, as is the customer service. I like to get the clear heat shrink on the connectors so I can keep an eye on things in there. I always use military terminals, too.
You do NOT want this junk!
Garbage!
How do you plan on attaching the terminals?
One option is to get wires custom made by BestBoatWire.com. Just match what you already have, or, if you want, go up one gauge size (like 6 to 4). Don't go crazy big - there's really no benefit and it's a pain to work with.
I have gotten quite a few cables from them, and the quality is first rate, as is the customer service. I like to get the clear heat shrink on the connectors so I can keep an eye on things in there. I always use military terminals, too.
You do NOT want this junk!
Garbage!
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#9
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Thread Starter
I think I’m going to go the diy route and hopefully. Not run into to many problems. Does anyone know if this green wire is stock or did someone hack this up? I was planning on going back with two 4gauge wire here until I saw this. Also does anyone know if the two wires that are crimped together with the metal bracket need to be together or could they be bolted on individually?
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
Clamps are in the mail, after doing a litter research I see that green wire must be the fuselink for the alternator.
Last edited by Damien McKeown; 07-30-2020 at 03:22 PM.
#11
Member
Correct that is a fuse in the green wire. As far as the two wires being together I think is also correct. I can check my WJ tomorrow and let you know how mine looks.
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