Powerwheel22

I know how to test for drain location, but in order to do so, I need to disable interior lights. And there's the problem, my'04 GC had a button switch on the doors jamb, clamp it down and cabin lights are off. On the '06, no switch, tried tripping the door latch, but interior lights still come on. Can anyone let me know how to disable cabin lights, either switch or fuse. That will allow me to get an accurate amp drop reading.
Thanks in advance for any answers.

Noah911

Yea, it sounds like a strange set-up to not have easy access to disable the courtesy dome lamps how you would want. This is how I would probably attempt a go at it..

There should be a panel of fuses located underneath of the dash area on either the drivers or passengers side near the floorboard. I'm not sure for your year model Jeep which fuse it would actually be? That would be easy enough to find out by searching for and finding a schematics diagram of those fuses here on the kick-panel. Or, just pull them one at a time until you find the one for the interior courtesy lamps until they go off.

Do not just pull the fuse though, since there is most likely a lot more than just those lamps located on this particular fuse... The radio, horn, gauge cluster, and possibly some other accessories may probably be tied into this circuit as well as some of the BCM functions... If you simply just pull the fuse to keep the courtesy dome lamps from being illuminated you may be setting yourself up for failure? There is the possibility of the drain being on that circuit here in one of those accessories on that fuse. It really kind of sucks there is not an easy way to do this how you would normally do it by clamping the opened door switch in the door jamb area. Because it sounds like you will obviously have to actually eliminate the courtesy lamps from out of the circuit as well, you know? Elimination of this part of the circuit completely will take out the courtesy under hood lamp, floor courtesy lamps near the drivers and passengers kick paneling, the glove box courtesy lamp, and the doors and rear hatch's portion too. It is highly likely the drain could also be occuring at any one of those courtesy lamps in this circuit if you know what I mean? You have to eliminate them for the testing though.... Because of these reasons. I think the best thing to do which will achieve the same results is to go ahead and just pull all of these courtesy bulbs from out of their sockets for the testing purpose. If you are unable to locate the drain elsewhere while you have these bulbs removed? Then, keep testing as you replace the courtesy lamps bulbs one by one.. until you find the one that is pulling more than the normal amount of current when you replace it.

Alternatively, you could do something like this instead of pulling the bulbs;

But again, if you do this.. you will be eliminating some of the more likely sources of the drain at the same time in this courtesy lamps bulbs circuitry. Definitely do not just pull the fuse. Instead... one of those fuses located in the kick panel is for all those lights (it has these lights on it anyways.. But, it also has many other things there on it too.. So, do not just pull the fuse). Instead, right at the kick panel fuses location there should be bundled wires each on individual connectors. They should be sharing to connect themselves onto this same area of the fuses panel too. Pull each bundled wire connector individually one by one until you find the one on which where the lights go out on you (same deal as if you were doing it to find their associated fuse). Once you find the correct bundle of wires.. From there, you should be able to isolate and find the specific courtesy lamps and their wires located here on that bunble. You could disconnect the wire(s) from the connector to eliminate the lamps, and then plug this connector back into its spot on the panel. I think it would be easier to pull all of the bulbs though.

Noah911

You could probably get away with doing it another way too.

If you are connecting a multimeter to the battery and looking for either one of these; 1- the current reading in amperes (probably the most popular preferred common method). 2- if you are choosing to watch for a VOLTS reading at the battery to see if you are able to notice a decreasing value of voltage actually cease, and begin to rise again (a less popular and uncommon method. But, is an equally viable way to do this type of thing). There are lots of different methods which may be used so long as you have them oriented correctly when you are trying to chase down the source of a parasitic drain having suspected a 'voltage drop' to be occuring. I am going to assume you will be utilizing the common method of in-lining the meter in-between the battery post and a disconected battery cable.

You could do this:
Connect up in-lining your multimeter to the battery and cable. I recommend maybe think about closing the hood after you get your dvom connected up having the dvom wires routed up from underneath of the hood and leading out of the engine compartment. Doing this will eliminate any unwanted possibilities of having the under the hood courtesy light, or any other types of hood and latch safety switch or something to inadvertently skew your readings causing inaccurate results to be obtained. Place the dvom onto the windshield and facing downwards in order for you to be able to see its screen when you are working inside of the Jeep (on the other hand.. you may choose to route the dvom directly inside of the Jeep to keep it with you. You might need extension leads for the meter if it has shorter leads though? Alligator clip dvom extension leads are useful anyways). You may also choose to want and keep a second dvom with you inside of the Jeep for using to test the fuses and their terminals, wires, and the other possible various connections simultaneously.. when you get to the point of isolating and narrowing down to the specific possible sources of the drain. Its not absolutely necessary. It does make it nice though having a second meter on hand like that to always have a constant reading going on at the battery being visible throughout the whole process for reference.

Once you have everything connected up and you are ready...

Close yourself inside of the Jeep with everything turned off with all of the doors shut and closed. Read a book, or get on your phone for awhile.. Just wait it out for about 45 minutes to an hour with everything turned off while the Jeep goes to sleep for you. While you wait for it to fully shut down the programmed timing delays in the ECUs. Then, you will be able to begin whichever of the processes you've choosen to utilize for testing this type of thing.

Powerwheel22

Noah11,
Thanks so much for your response. I’m sure I can find a fuse ledger, for the interior panel, (located left of steering column, facing towards floorboard). Which means you have to rest your head upside down and contort your body, then go about your work!!!
No markings on the box cover, but I can get that information.
I’ll probably go with the wire solution 1st, and go from there.
Again, Thanks so much, I had looked so long, without results. I needed “another set of eyes” or in this case, another brain to find a different approach.
Again, many thanks & hope you and yours have a great Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas!!

Noah911

You bet. And thanks a lot! I return the same sentiments back to you as well.

You could think about removing the front seat to make it easier to get at those fuses.. if you decide to stay inside of the Jeep to keep it truly fully sleeping. On my WJ it is only four bolts holding the seat down, and it takes me less than five minutes to fully remove the front seat to make more room. I have removed and re-installed all of the seats from out of my WJ many times when I was needing to make more room when using it to travel.