Tarriverarms

Trying to remove my dash and can’t get this wiring connector to separate on the driver’s side. Tried prying with a screwdriver but the lip is starting to give so I stopped.

Im trying to remove the dash bc my AC is dripping condensation down the firewall. I’ve already done the 1/4” hole repair last year when it was flooding into the rear floor and that fixed the problem. Now it’s leaking in the front and blowing it out again hasn’t fixed this issue.

Plan on replacing the heater core while it’s apart bc this is a royal pain in the butt.

wingless

When I replaced the evaporator, heater core and power antenna on my '94 ZJ I didn't fully remove the dash. I just pulled it far enough away from the firewall and propped it using 2x4 scraps during the project.

Sorry I don't recall on that specific connector if it was detached or not on my effort. Sometimes it pulls apart from the opposite end. Maybe you need to try at a seam on the far end (not shown in image).

Tarriverarms

Wingless thanks for this, wish I’d seen it before I started. I’ve already removed the dash and it’s just hanging. I never thought about having to discharge the ac system. Now my car is not drivable without reassembly.

My issue is the AC drain is leaking down the firewall. I’ve tried to caulk around the drain tube but can’t get behind the tube on top because of that jar rubber/foam padding between it and the firewall. Id like to just try to seal it and really this was a last resort.

I’ll see if I can just loosen it enough to pull away to try to cut the padding back and seal it. If not I don’t know what my next step will be.

wingless

There are four (?) nuts on the engine side of the firewall retaining the HVAC box to the firewall.

It might be possible to attain sufficient clearance to seal that foam drain donut to the firewall so it stops leaking.

A concern I would have is crud in the drain, impeding normal operation. Maybe dumping water into the HVAC box once loose to flush any crud might assist the effort.

Note if the AC is pressurized then the correct process is for a tech to evacuate the R-134a for recycling. In my total replacement it was already empty, making it ideal for my DIY repair.

With all your existing effort it would be a shame to not swap the evaporator and the heater core prior to buttoning it back together.

Tarriverarms

Yes I agree which was my intent when I got this far.