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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
So I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 Straight Six. And originally I thought the transmission was toast but I kept on making adjustments and finally I manually pulled the TVC cable and got her to start shifting fairly normal. But not 100% There are some quirks I would like to eliminate. I have a new TPS coming. And the problems I am having now is the transmission seems confused more or less. Previously before the TVC adjustment I was stuck revving high and then letting off just to get to second gear. Now after the adjustment...which I have been slightly tweaking..she shifts from first to second very quick....and then on the highway if I want to get more acceleration she won't drop down a gear but just slowly put more pressure on the current gears. however since my last tweak it may have altered that. It is incredibly sensitive but it is working pretty good. My next plan is to install the new sensor and then pull the ground to reset the sensors. I am hoping that will assist in the readjustment process. Anyway I am pretty much there and not upset about the current performance...but if you guys have any ideas please let me know! I just want to get it right. All I know is my trans is not bad...or not the trans that I was recently thinking about replacing. Every test brings me closer to perfection. Love that I got this far!!!! Thanks again for any advice!
The adjustment of the TV cable on the 42re is quite fussy, but I think you can get it ballpark by disconnecting it from the throttle lever and making sure it's retracted as much as it will go, then the clip on the end should be 1/16" past the connector on the throttle lever. In other words, 1/16" slack before it moves with the throttle. The REAL way is to remove the trans pan and pull the valve the cable is attached to as far as it will come out, open the throttle on the engine as far as it will go, and adjust the cable stop until the cable just fits over the stud on the throttle lever. Then check to see that the TV cable moves smoothly with the throttle with no lag between the throttle lever and the valve motion. Then you can fine tune the shift points with one click of the anchor either way. I don't have the FSM text in front of me, but that's what I remember.
I went with the 1/16" method and it seems to work pretty well. The TCM still gets confused when getting on the highway and you want more power sometimes. Press down the throttle and it won't shift. Give it a little more and it shifts to 1st! THEN to 2nd. DAMN! I usually manually shift it down when this happens. When it won't shift right away, I pull the lever back one.
The adjustment of the TV cable on the 42re is quite fussy, but I think you can get it ballpark by disconnecting it from the throttle lever and making sure it's retracted as much as it will go, then the clip on the end should be 1/16" past the connector on the throttle lever. In other words, 1/16" slack before it moves with the throttle. The REAL way is to remove the trans pan and pull the valve the cable is attached to as far as it will come out, open the throttle on the engine as far as it will go, and adjust the cable stop until the cable just fits over the stud on the throttle lever. Then check to see that the TV cable moves smoothly with the throttle with no lag between the throttle lever and the valve motion. Then you can fine tune the shift points with one click of the anchor either way. I don't have the FSM text in front of me, but that's what I remember.
I went with the 1/16" method and it seems to work pretty well. The TCM still gets confused when getting on the highway and you want more power sometimes. Press down the throttle and it won't shift. Give it a little more and it shifts to 1st! THEN to 2nd. DAMN! I usually manually shift it down when this happens. When it won't shift right away, I pull the lever back one.
Yeah man this trans is ridiculous. Speaking of which perhaps you have some insight on this one... I added a whole quart even though the trans was not low on fluid(I believe). This was during my desperate about to give up phase and pre-empted the cable adjustments. So now the trans is leaking a decent amount of fluid....and seems to be acting weird, still shifting fairly okay with additional weirdness. Anyway...and this is for you Dave, is there an overflow line when you put too much fluid in or did I blow a gasket or something not good? I do want to do the full trans fluid flush swap with a new filter and if I do should i replace the solenoids or anything else you recommend? Thanks again for all the advice!!!!
Okay the trans fluid is ok. I did not screw my transmission with massive overflow. However I do want to do a full change, filter change, possible solenoids...but not really sure. I do know that it seems massively temperature related (outside temperature) as to performance. Hot weather she is perfect. So it seems I have to reset it for colder weather. Oye. What a complicated trans!
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
I have the 97 zj and I think the pcm is the same for the 96 and 97 but there is a difference for the 95, so, take with a grain. Have had for about 7 years now. More than once I thought the trans MUST be toast and each time it comes back. First, I would agree with Dave's 1/16 of slack method on the tv cable. Ok, maybe not slack, but DEF not tight. The tendency is, well it needs adjusting so Ill just tweek it a littttle tighter, and that is dead wrong. Tighter will only make it wind out and not shift. Loose and it will be quite drivable and shift at normal points. CAUTION Even a badly adjusted cable is better than one that is not hooked up at all, if you forget, you could toast the thing right there, had that happen to my S10 blazer...
That said, you def have to change the solenoids, they are not expensive. If you cant get the last one out because of the harness, you can at least clean out the 2 filter screens on it and put it back, this is what I did and it fixed not downshifting to 1st. That was 4 years ago and it's still ok. Actually there is only 1 other solenoid, the other is the gov pressure sensor. But all 3 are on ebay for a buck or so. I went wit the Borg Warner upgraded one. Change the fluid multiple times, pay no attention to the amount of material in the pan, there will be enough to make chevy people faint, just keep changing it. Adjust the bands, the hardest part is finding the tools ahead of time. Plenty of internet posts on how to do that.
Lastly, I had a hesitation when it was hot, after getting off the highway etc or running hard, it would hang in the gear and not upshift well at all first to second. The fix was quite unexpected; I changed the PCM for other reasons. Got a rebuilt at Advance, for less than a buck. Took the old one I destroyed trying to fix and credited the core on the spot. Well, that fixed the hang up shift when hot, to my utter surprise. And that is about all it fixed; I had other issues that turned out to be lifter preload and not oiling-related, not pcm. But it was way worth it. I hate to say it but my RE with 200k shifts most of the time like a Mercedes suv.
One more note, there is something Chrysler screwed up with the dipstick. Don't count on it reading accurately. Its a hit and miss experiment. If your fluid is disappearing, check the transfer case to see if overfilled, could be the rear seal on the transmission. Mine is fine and never had that prob.
Of course you cannot have leaks, either , New tranny lines and a pan gasket, Advance. And fix any stripped pan bolts, either with a longer bolt or a bolt and nut on the other side.
I also adjusted my line pressure, yes you can, and the throttle valve pressure to compensate for wear, but, that would be a last step for you.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 09-06-2019 at 07:27 PM.
I have the 97 zj and I think the pcm is the same for the 96 and 97 but there is a difference for the 95, so, take with a grain. Have had for about 7 years now. More than once I thought the trans MUST be toast and each time it comes back. First, I would agree with Dave's 1/16 of slack method on the tv cable. Ok, maybe not slack, but DEF not tight. The tendency is, well it needs adjusting so Ill just tweek it a littttle tighter, and that is dead wrong. Tighter will only make it wind out and not shift. Loose and it will be quite drivable and shift at normal points. CAUTION Even a badly adjusted cable is better than one that is not hooked up at all, if you forget, you could toast the thing right there, had that happen to my S10 blazer...
That said, you def have to change the solenoids, they are not expensive. If you cant get the last one out because of the harness, you can at least clean out the 2 filter screens on it and put it back. Actually there is only 1 other solenoid, the other is the gov pressure sensor. But all 3 are on ebay for a buck or so. I went wit the Borg Warner upgraded one. Change the fluid multiple times, pay no attention to the amount of material in the pan, there will be enough to make chevy people faint, just keep changing it. Adjust the bands, the hardest part is finding the tools ahead of time. Plenty of internet posts on how to do that.
Lastly, I had a hesitation when it was hot, after getting off the highway etc or running hard, it would hang in the gear and not shift well at all.
The fix was quite unexpected, I changed the PCM for other reasons. Got a rebuilt at Advance, for less than a buck. Took the old one I destroyed and credited the core on the spot. Well, that fixed the hang up shift when hot, to my utter surprise. And that is about all if fixed, I had other issues that were lifter oiling related, not pcm. But it was way worth it. I hate to say it but my RE with 200k shifts most of the time like a Mercedes suv.
One more note, there is something Chrysler screwed up with the dipstick. Don't count on it reading accurately. Its a hit and miss experiment.
Of course you cannot have leaks, either , New tranny lines and a pan gasket, Advance. And fix any stripped pan bolts, either with a longer bolt or a bolt and nut on the other side.
I also adjusted my line pressure, yes you can, and the throttle valve pressure to compensate for wear, but, that would be a last step for you.
I cannot fully respond to all of this at this time...but I truly thank you for all the input! I will get the solenoids asap and get it all done. I just want a reliable 4x4 before winter. Thanks so much! I will post at some point my updated trans performance. It may be a while. I have parts all over and now I have to get the trans parts and 10 quarts of atfplus4....so yeah..gonna be a while!
One thing I've found about the 42re in cold weather. After you start it up, shift it to neutral and allow it to warm a bit before you take off driving. Give the fluid time to expand the ancient o-rings to seal off before you ask them to function properly. Also don't use the shifter as a brake, as in stopping a roll by engaging the clutches. It's really hard on them and can result in tearing off clutch material. The temperature sensor in the pan will not allow it to shift into 4th gear when the fluid is below 32*F.
Also, Mopar makes a 3-part sandwich pan gasket that's neoprene and steel and requires no sealer and can be used several times. And yeah, ATF+4 is a bit expensive. Overfulling the trans results in fluid being turned to foam by the geartrain and weird shifting. When it foams, it can leak out the breather tube and look like a pan leak.
One thing I've found about the 42re in cold weather. After you start it up, shift it to neutral and allow it to warm a bit before you take off driving. Give the fluid time to expand the ancient o-rings to seal off before you ask them to function properly. Also don't use the shifter as a brake, as in stopping a roll by engaging the clutches. It's really hard on them and can result in tearing off clutch material. The temperature sensor in the pan will not allow it to shift into 4th gear when the fluid is below 32*F.
Also, Mopar makes a 3-part sandwich pan gasket that's neoprene and steel and requires no sealer and can be used several times. And yeah, ATF+4 is a bit expensive. Overfulling the trans results in fluid being turned to foam by the geartrain and weird shifting. When it foams, it can leak out the breather tube and look like a pan leak.
Thanks for the reply. I have everything to do the work this weekend. Also I cannot seem to tell when she shifts from 2nd to 3rd, let alone 4th! Sometimes on the highway at 70 I am running almost 3000 rpm...then another time I was running 2500. And the downshifting for acceleration is very spontaneous. Most times it does not do it..kind of hugs the gear even if you put on the gas pretty hard. Well Changing a lot this weekend so we shall see how it goes. Good advice in the cold! thanks man!
Right so the first time I changed any vehicles transmission fluid I chose my 95 ZJ Laredo. Get a load of all the crap in that pan!!! I did some research and some are saying that band is for the overdrive. Makes sense since I am pretty sure I have not had overdrive. This trans is shredded inside man! However she still works.. SO I replaced the filter, the governor pressure solenoid(cause I bought one) and made the pan look brand new with a nice new gasket. Cleaned the magnet...never seen anything like that before.... But it is perfect now. I put about 7 quarts back in. You can't get a full fluid change without a system flush so there will be a decent amount still in there. She drove good after. A little bumpy like before but smoother. Def no overdrive. Will be doing much more driving tests tomorrow as today I have had too many beers and will not drive like that. Too suburban. Not cool yaknow. After the trans was warm with my dad driving haha I checked the fluid and nailed it perfect. It was checked in neutral.. The only issue I noticed today after all that work is that trans fluid is leaking out of the link between the trans and the transfer case....at a pretty significant speed. If anyone knows if that is an easy fix let me know cause I will not spend another dime on this trans,,,,she is on her way out.
Looks good to me, drain and fill it 3 more times, good to go.
Brother that was not an easy job since my driveway is on a hill and I had to level it off with jackstands!! And you want me to do this 3 more times??? That is a lot of atfplus4! Do I need to change the filter and new pan gasket each time? So I need to buy like 15 more quarts of trans fluid...ahhhhhh! I really like your positive mental attitude on this. Do you know what those bands were?(In the pan) Also the leak where it meets the transfer case? Thanks for all your advice. I guess the first time is the hardest...half the fluid got on me and the other half in the drain pan. Not so easy when you can't run away. You know since I am lying down. If I raise my legs on the creeper I fly down the hill hahahah!
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Originally Posted by DCWinterXJ
Brother that was not an easy job since my driveway is on a hill and I had to level it off with jackstands!! And you want me to do this 3 more times??? That is a lot of atfplus4! Do I need to change the filter and new pan gasket each time? So I need to buy like 15 more quarts of trans fluid...ahhhhhh! I really like your positive mental attitude on this. Do you know what those bands were?(In the pan) Also the leak where it meets the transfer case? Thanks for all your advice. I guess the first time is the hardest...half the fluid got on me and the other half in the drain pan. Not so easy when you can't run away. You know since I am lying down. If I raise my legs on the creeper I fly down the hill hahahah!
I would guess pieces of one of the bands. Dont worry, when they completely disintegrate they still have raw steel to catch on the drum.
Well change 3 more times but not now. Wait till you have shifting problems again to do the next one. Could be anywhere from 1 to 52 weeks. You could have ordered the gov sensor, solenoid, and lockup solenoid at once off ebay somewhere for $90. and got them out of the way. If you didn't, clean the 2 screens on the lockup solenoid, that's the tough one to change out anyhow and all that is usually wrong with it are those 2 little screens. Same with the screen on the other solenoid because they clog up just like the tranny screen.
You do want to adjust the bands, this is probably why they are disintegrating. They do need adjusting.
No need to schedule anything until it acts up again. By that time your landlady will have had enough of you working on your car in her driveway and kicked you out, and likely you wont have to risk your life crawling under and unsafely raised jeep.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 09-15-2019 at 10:08 AM.
I would guess pieces of one of the bands. Dont worry, when they completely disintegrate they still have raw steel to catch on the drum.
Well change 3 more times but not now. Wait till you have shifting problems again to do the next one. Could be anywhere from 1 to 52 weeks. You could have ordered the gov sensor, solenoid, and lockup solenoid at once off ebay somewhere for $90. and got them out of the way. If you didn't, clean the 2 screens on the lockup solenoid, that's the tough one to change out anyhow and all that is usually wrong with it are those 2 little screens. Same with the screen on the other solenoid because they clog up just like the tranny screen.
You do want to adjust the bands, this is probably why they are disintegrating. They do need adjusting.
No need to schedule anything until it acts up again. By that time your landlady will have had enough of you working on your car in her driveway and kicked you out, and likely you wont have to risk your life crawling under and unsafely raised jeep.
haha! My Landlady is my mother(moved back home after a divorce) And she is not too psyched about a yard covered in Jeeps and Jeep parts. But I keep my workspaces clean and make sure every tool is accounted for. Plus I pay rent so she is okay.
On a completely different note...I drove the ZJ today and WOW! It is an entirely different transmission! I took it up on the highway and the gear I thought I was missing reappeared(or overdrive) and she dropped down to 2200 rpm at 70 plus mph! She has never done that before! So yeah that first fluid change and one solenoid= new trans. However I have a massive leak now and I have to figure it out asap before I destroy the driveway. Initially I thought it was the link between the transmission and transfer case but I saw some drips on the pan today too. I may have stripped one of the bolts(ok I am pretty sure I did) But it did not leak. It may be now though. The whole area was thoroughly cleaned so I can hopefully spot a leak now. Since this the first time I have ever done anything inside a transmission...I am learning as I go. Like when you say adjust the bands I have no idea where they are or how to do that. I youtube everything, watch the video, and then perform the surgery. I mean I have done tons of mechanical work in all aspects and am pretty well rounded...just never messed with a transmission. I learn amazing things everyday! Thanks for all the advice! I hope I can stop that leak and next change will be all the solenoids.
09-02-2019, 04:09 PM
95 ZJ Fine Tuning Transmission..tips appreciated
