I have been having a noise in the front end of my jeep. It sounds just like a video I saw on you tube of the front diff gears chipped up. I took the cover off and the gears look fine. The pinion seal is leaking but it has never ran dry and I keep fluid in it. When I get above 50 mph it starts making the noise louder like a wheel bearing, I let off the gas and its much quieter, give it the gas and its louder. I noticed that both of my front axle boots are busted so I thought that maybe there is dirt/dust/grime in there, or just not enough grease. The do still have grease though, maybe not enough? I will have to replace the axles just don't have the money now. The big this is yesterday it started pulling to the right when I would apply the brakes and it also started the front end "death wobble". When it started I applied the gas just a little and it stopped. I was doing around 45 mph. I think the brake was sticking on the front left a little. I know this Is a lot but I want to fix the dangerous things first. Can a wheel bearing still be bad or maybe dry if the wheel does not wiggle? I jacked it up and couldn't get it to wiggle at all. I may have several things wrong, I thought that maybe since the pinion seal was leaking then maybe the bearings in there were bad. The only slack on the driveshafts at all is a very slight clicking where the front one goes into the transfer case, but its very slight, everything seems fine with the u joints and such. This noise has been going on for about a month now, which has probably on been 150 miles but now that front end wobble has me worried. I hit a big bump a few days before and it also wobbled which that was the first time. If anyone has experience any of these issues could you let me know what you found? Thanks.

 

First I think you may have worn pinion bearings which allow the gear lash to change with power on-power off. This is supported by the pinion seal leaking because the pinion shaft is moving around. JMHO however.

Check the wheel bearings by trying to move the tire up and down with a pry bar under it. Any movement will be either ball joints or wheel bearings. Have someone watch in the back for the ball joints as you move the tire.

Remove the brake calipers and lube the slider pins with brake grease, making sure you get it inside the rubber boots. Sticking pins are common on jeeps.

The wobble can be caused by ANY looseness in the suspension, like worn control arm or trackbar bushings, worn steering linkage ends, bearings, brakes, ball joints, or even tire balance. A careful inspection and replacement of worn parts is in order. Then get it aligned.

 

Thanks dave. I pulled the calipers off and the pads were worn diagonally/tapered. I believe my pins do need greased because they even feel stick. I am going to clean them real good and grease them before I buy new calipers. Also, I noticed that the shock on the steering is leaking oil. I guess that's the steering stabilizer. I have been suspecting the pinion bearings were the noise because of the seal leak also. I know nothing about suspension and differentials. I am pretty good with engines, motorcycles and stuff like that but never really messed with the diff. Is this something I need to get done asap (the pinion bearings) and is it a DIY or does lash and all that need measured? Thanks.

 

Replacing the pinion bearings and setting gear lash requires attention to detail and experience to do it right. It is NOT a DIY unless you research it intensely. The bearing preload must be done correctly to the right torque or the new bearing won't last long. I suggest you take it to a driveline specialty shop or a heavy truck repair shop. Someone who does it everyday.

Believe me, I learned the hard way. I had a shop replace the pinion seal who said they knew what they were doing only to have my rear axle grenade on me. Bits and pieces and oil all over the road! They went with a replacement used axle and when that one started to whine, their shop was out of business.

I drove my 97 ZJ another year with the whine getting louder all the time. By the time it started to grind, the frame was shot anyway so I sold it for parts.

 

Thanks dave. I noticed that the steering stabilizer was leaking so I think the combo of the brakes sticking and that MAY have been my wobble problem. I agree with the pinion situation, I have never attempted anything with a diff so I am going to have a shop do it. Thanks again.

 

The steering stabilizer has NOTHING to do with DW. I took mine off and drove it for 2 weeks without it and never had a vibration problem.

 

Thanks again, I can take that out of the equation then. I have mostly had muscle cars and never messed with off road stuff so I have a lot to learn about it.

 

With the live front axle, there is a LOT of weight that has to be controlled while moving down the road. ANY looseness can cause it to move around when it shouldn't. Death Wobble is caused by small vibrations that build on themselves to create uncontrollable oscillations. Even small things like alignment and tire balance can contribute to this. A lot of times worn trackbar bushings are the problem.

The double-live-axle platform is a very stable one. You can hang it into corners with very little body roll and it handles nice and solid. As my Dad used to say "Rides like a rocking horse, corners like a couch!" If you get violent, it will drift without feeling like it will roll over UNLESS you've got a bunch of lift on it.

 

I was wondering, until I get the money to get the front fixed, can I take the front driveshaft and the gears out of the front diff and run in 2 wheel drive? My brother in law has an auto repair shop and said he will do the pinion bearings and throw in the new axles for $150 which I thought was really good. He knows how to set the lash and I have no idea. Anyway, I need to buy the axles and the bearings/seals and don't have the money. Will it hurt it to run in rear wheel? It is a quadratrac. Well I guess its a select trac? I don't know anything about these jeeps.

 

Loose wobbly front end that is suddenly getting worse most likely an upper ball getting ready to break. I went nuts like everyone else with dw, on 2 jeeps at the same time, until I caved in and just changed all the ball joints.
Jack it up so the tire is off the ground about 2 inches, and slip a breaker bar under the wheel, then rock up and down while watching your ball joints with a flashlight. I think you will be in for a surprise. You cant start addressing DW in one of these until you change all 4 joints, PERIOD. Once I did that, in addition to the usual track bar, damper, and damper bolt and track bar mount bolt/washer grade 10 bolt, and various tie rod ends, my dw was gone and it drove like a new BMW on the highway and still does.
No fancy mods, all stock.

As far as the clicking noise that gets worse with acceleration, ..check the pinion nut with a breaker bar and socket just to make sure. You shouldnt be able to move it, it torques to something like 200ft lbs. If loose it will clunk on acceleration and decel. Brake calipers are notorious for being loose, the 10mm nuts stripped, or partly engaged by stuck caliper or having notches worn in the sliders on the spindle. Weld them up with a harbor freight arc welder and grind them flat.