Alittle help
12-22-2009, 11:57 AM
#16
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Year: 97
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
the 3.5 with new shocks for old man emu is only 469$
and im new two it but i understand it all been around motors all my life.
and im new two it but i understand it all been around motors all my life.
12-22-2009, 12:05 PM
#17
CF Veteran
That's not a bad price but when you figure you need Control arms, track bars or relocation brackets and swat bar links that kit is far from complete and laves you less than half done..
And I ment no disrespect in you being new, just something I've learned to read in people.
And I ment no disrespect in you being new, just something I've learned to read in people.
12-22-2009, 12:27 PM
#19
CF Veteran
Why are you keyed in on Ol Man Emu?
Is it price? Rep?
Do you have a link to where you found that kit at that price?
Is it price? Rep?
Do you have a link to where you found that kit at that price?
12-22-2009, 01:12 PM
#20
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Year: 97
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
http://www.rocky-road.com/zjtrailblazer.html
its mostly the rep i like how they ride and what i read about them is never negative
its mostly the rep i like how they ride and what i read about them is never negative
12-23-2009, 11:03 AM
#22
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Personally, only thing I ever ran from EMU was their stabilizer... otherwise just over priced.
For shocks, if you're looking to have the best of both worlds, consider an adjustable... namely the Rancho RS9000's.
I'm running the Pro Comp arms on mine, and they are doing pretty well. My only grip, and this is with most any aftermarket arm, the poly bushings squeak.
To do it on the cheap, make a list of what you need and start hunting the classifieds and your local craigslist. People are always upgrading to something else, or something larger, so you could piece it together here and there.
For shocks, if you're looking to have the best of both worlds, consider an adjustable... namely the Rancho RS9000's.
I'm running the Pro Comp arms on mine, and they are doing pretty well. My only grip, and this is with most any aftermarket arm, the poly bushings squeak.
To do it on the cheap, make a list of what you need and start hunting the classifieds and your local craigslist. People are always upgrading to something else, or something larger, so you could piece it together here and there.
12-23-2009, 11:35 AM
#23
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im glad nick chimed in in here. he was the one i talked to when i first got my zj.(i actually have some advice he gave me in a word document on my desktop) old man emu is supposed to give you the best ride and stuff but you said yourself that you got this jeep for cheap so i doubt you will be going very far in it. Many people that i have talked to with zjs lifted 3-5 inches have iron rock offroad (iro) lifts. i myself hope to get their 3.5 front>rear swap
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-Z_3LK
it utilizes the front stock springs out back and lift springs in the front.
i am currently running a "fat bobs garage" 2 inch bb/puck lift. i got it off of ebay and for the 50-60 i spent on it i am glad i got it but if i had the money i would have gone straight to a bigger lift.
about the tire size personally i think the max that most people need is 33's which can be done on a lift that is 4-5 inches tall but the biggest that i plan on going with anytime soon are 265/75/16 which are like large 31's and dont require a lot of work. im not sure on how much mud and how severe the trails around you are but if it is like it is on the trails here 31-32's will do you fine.
THe 249 t case....how i despise it but love it. i do plan on swapping it out in the future like many do because the vc's wear out and mess them up but for the time being i plan on keeping it in and enjoying the full time 4wd.
for stuff on the cheap-
Do you weld?
spray paint can do cool things
im in the process of redoing parts of my interior with camo...kinda came to a standstill with college though.
after im done with it i might have $35 in the whole camo upgrade.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-Z_3LK
it utilizes the front stock springs out back and lift springs in the front.
i am currently running a "fat bobs garage" 2 inch bb/puck lift. i got it off of ebay and for the 50-60 i spent on it i am glad i got it but if i had the money i would have gone straight to a bigger lift.
about the tire size personally i think the max that most people need is 33's which can be done on a lift that is 4-5 inches tall but the biggest that i plan on going with anytime soon are 265/75/16 which are like large 31's and dont require a lot of work. im not sure on how much mud and how severe the trails around you are but if it is like it is on the trails here 31-32's will do you fine.
THe 249 t case....how i despise it but love it. i do plan on swapping it out in the future like many do because the vc's wear out and mess them up but for the time being i plan on keeping it in and enjoying the full time 4wd.
for stuff on the cheap-
Do you weld?
spray paint can do cool things
im in the process of redoing parts of my interior with camo...kinda came to a standstill with college though.
after im done with it i might have $35 in the whole camo upgrade.
Last edited by taythegibs; 12-23-2009 at 11:39 AM.
12-23-2009, 11:48 AM
#24
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Year: 97
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
gotta get some pics of the shop but yea I have everything at my fingertips you name it.... I do weld but ive got a father that can do much better soo i think he will be doing most of my welding ive got a bunch of steel piping from the old high school im going to use for my rear and front bumper....
I do plan on going far its a good jeep i got it from a guy who had no choice but to sell soo thats why i got it so cheap.
I do plan on going far its a good jeep i got it from a guy who had no choice but to sell soo thats why i got it so cheap.
12-23-2009, 12:28 PM
#25
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
SCH 40 and 80 pipe is strong, I'm not doubting that, but it is "seamed" pipe... meaning when it is made it is actually a flat sheet that is rolled into a pipe and the seam is then welded... If it gets bent or stressed, this seam is a weak point.
For a bumper, I would take a look at 2x4 rectangle tubing. I made my TJ bumpers from this and it is hella strong.
If you want to do it with tube, get DOM seamless tubing. It's what cages and chassis are made from.
I'd have to look at the specs on it, but pipe is also heavier then tubing.
1 1/2" DOM tubing is about 1.5 lbs per foot
1 1/2" SCH 40 pipe is about 2.7 lbs per foot
1 1/2" SCH 80 pipe is about 3.6 lbs per foot.
hope this helps.
12-23-2009, 03:45 PM
#26
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
OK info helps..
First your going to want to get rid of the NP249 T-case you run now it's a junk box.
Fide a good 242 or 231, both are easy swaps and can be had cheap. ($50-$150) that would be something you can do now while working on the cheap.
Now as for your Coil over idea, that's very pricy talking in the $5000+ to do it right. Your needs would be better suited by a good off the shelf kit.
Also do your reading 33's can be a pain to get fitted to a ZJ and make it look good and clean.
Also ZJ's are top heavy, so lower the better you can get to 33's a few ways. 4" lift and Iceland Offroad would be the way I'd do it. Keeps you lower to the ground and gives that large tire look.
But on the cheap I'd start by getting a different T-case and build from there.
First your going to want to get rid of the NP249 T-case you run now it's a junk box.
Fide a good 242 or 231, both are easy swaps and can be had cheap. ($50-$150) that would be something you can do now while working on the cheap.
Now as for your Coil over idea, that's very pricy talking in the $5000+ to do it right. Your needs would be better suited by a good off the shelf kit.
Also do your reading 33's can be a pain to get fitted to a ZJ and make it look good and clean.
Also ZJ's are top heavy, so lower the better you can get to 33's a few ways. 4" lift and Iceland Offroad would be the way I'd do it. Keeps you lower to the ground and gives that large tire look.
But on the cheap I'd start by getting a different T-case and build from there.
12-23-2009, 07:29 PM
#28
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the 249 is known for having the viscous couplings go bad and they are really expensive to fix when it happens.
here is a link to a writeup on changing them with a price of $427 from the cheap place or $1300 from the dealership and i dont know how old the writeup is.
here is a link to a writeup on changing them with a price of $427 from the cheap place or $1300 from the dealership and i dont know how old the writeup is.
12-24-2009, 07:03 AM
#30
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
its a everyday driver till i get my tax money. i didnt want to waste money on a smaller lift now only to lift it higher later.