disc brake question
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
disc brake question
while changing the front pads and rotors on 94 GCL -found the area where the pads ride very worn --is there any fix for this besides replacing the entire brake assembly-- thanks
#2
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Location: Oroville, CA
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The rotors can be turned if they are within spec, but for about 25 bucks each you can have new rotors. More cost effective to replace them.
#3
Old fart with a wrench
MOST brake shops won't do a brake job without replacing the rotors. It has to do with their liability for your safety, and their insurance premiums. In my area, there aren't any shops that turn rotors anymore, for the same reasons. Likewise with calipers. You can't even find pistons and seals anymore.
My theory is this; It may not be fast, but it has GOT to be able to stop!
My theory is this; It may not be fast, but it has GOT to be able to stop!
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
thanks for the replies and upon reading my question i realize it was not worded the way i intended-the problem is not with the rotors -which i changed--but with the bracket the pad slides upon -one has a noticeable wear area where the pad lays --sorry for the confusion--thanks again
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
yea it's a Chrysler thing. what I believe OP is referring to is the divot that develops on the knuckle where the pads actually sit. I've got the same problem. been meaning to get it into my shop after work one day but the last thing I wanna do after wrenching for 10 hours is wrench more.... I've found that welding it then grinding it smooth is the most cost effective way to do that. however your brakes will still work until you can do it, just not nearly as well as they will after you repair it. when I do it I intend on taking before and after photos.
#6
Old fart with a wrench
Okay, now I understand. This is the surface that stops the pad from rotating with the rotor, and yeah, I've noticed them also. Welding the surface is probably the best answer short of replacing the entire knuckle. One vehicle I did had anti-rattle shims to take up the clearance, but I don't remember which. The Toyota Rav4 comes to mind.
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