engine removal help
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
engine removal help
well as alot of you know my jeep got screwed over and broke a rod well i need to get my jeep on road so i need to do a swap i found a jeep grandcherokee motor with 175K for 180$ well im going to do it monday but question is it is auto is it easyer to remove the engine and trans together and should i remove the front to make room
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Id say definately remove the front clip if you can, it will give you alot more room. I've never pulled an engine myself, but my dad has pulled hundreds, and he says its usually easier to remove the engine and tranny together because the top bolts on the bell housing can be a b**ch to get at.
#4
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
well as alot of you know my jeep got screwed over and broke a rod well i need to get my jeep on road so i need to do a swap i found a jeep grandcherokee motor with 175K for 180$ well im going to do it monday but question is it is auto is it easyer to remove the engine and trans together and should i remove the front to make room
For most people it's easier to remove them together, leaving the transfer case in the Jeep. Then separate them once they're out of the vehicle.
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i always remove the engine alone the 4.0 and transmission is pretty long and you need alot of room infront of the jeep to get them out together, and the top bolts arent that hard to get too
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#8
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When I pulled the engine out of my '96, I separated engine from transmission, and left transmission in the jeep. The torque converter stays with the tranny, you need to remove the torque converter to flexplate bolts first. You can pry it back maybe 1/4" or so even with engine in place. Don't let it fall off the tranny.
The trick to the top bolts is to give yourself some room..
Remove front clip (grille, rad, crossmember, etc). I removed alternator and manifolds too, before pulling engine. Get the engine hanging on hoist, take up the weight, and remove front motor mounts (remove them completely). Then lower engine back down, way down, to give room to get to top bolts on tranny. Use long extensions (about 3-4 feet total), and 2 people - one underneath to wrench, one on top to guide the socket onto the bolthead. A universal and a wobble-drive extension help a lot.
The boltheads are often inverted torx, you need the special socket to remove them. You may wish to replace the bolts with standard bolts when you put it back together. I think 3/8" x 2", I would use grade 8. If I recall, all the bolts that thread into the engine block are inch sizes, anything that screws into the body is metric. Once they are out, lift the engine back to normal position, block up the tranny, and remove the lower bolts. I blocked up the tranny with a long 2x4 bolted up to the frame, so I could roll the jeep around.
The reason I left the tranny behind, is I couldn't think of a safe way to pick it up, then tip it way back, then lift it high enough to clear.
The trick to the top bolts is to give yourself some room..
Remove front clip (grille, rad, crossmember, etc). I removed alternator and manifolds too, before pulling engine. Get the engine hanging on hoist, take up the weight, and remove front motor mounts (remove them completely). Then lower engine back down, way down, to give room to get to top bolts on tranny. Use long extensions (about 3-4 feet total), and 2 people - one underneath to wrench, one on top to guide the socket onto the bolthead. A universal and a wobble-drive extension help a lot.
The boltheads are often inverted torx, you need the special socket to remove them. You may wish to replace the bolts with standard bolts when you put it back together. I think 3/8" x 2", I would use grade 8. If I recall, all the bolts that thread into the engine block are inch sizes, anything that screws into the body is metric. Once they are out, lift the engine back to normal position, block up the tranny, and remove the lower bolts. I blocked up the tranny with a long 2x4 bolted up to the frame, so I could roll the jeep around.
The reason I left the tranny behind, is I couldn't think of a safe way to pick it up, then tip it way back, then lift it high enough to clear.
Last edited by the_big_h; 07-26-2012 at 09:29 PM.
#9
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Year: 89XJ,98ZJ,72K10, 06 Tundra..
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ive pulled about 5 drivetrains on XJs recently.....and If I had not already sold the TC, Ive pulled the entire engine, trans and TC at the same time. Its not that hard and much easier to seperate when everything is on the ground in front of you.
#10
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I just did this job about a month ago. You might be able to pull them both at the same time..but on mine the upper passenger side tranny bolt has a clamp that secures your wiring harness for tranny and TC it was the hardest to get to and to get out. So you could do them both but you still have to get that bolt and clamp loose. I left the tranny and TC in the car not too bad but you have to be really careful when you stab them back together. Good luck, it's alot of work but it' cool when you turn the key and it goes vroom vroom.
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you have to be really careful when you stab them back together
#12
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Year: 1999 sport 4x4
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have done a head on a 97...right now I am doing a motor swap of a 91 longblock into a 2000 that creamated a rod at 269K...my first engine swap....and man...let me tell you....I love working on cars...but this is physically very hard...I have a bad neck and back...I credit those that do this regularly...makes me love my office job..tonight is lift out and remove everything from the stock motor...I cannot wait until its done ..alot more than I thought it would be......never been this dirty in my life working on a car...good luck my friend...
Last edited by DaveD; 07-27-2012 at 11:23 AM.
#14
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Year: 1999 sport 4x4
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L