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Old 10-08-2017, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
No squirt holes on these. I spent a long time examining them on the workbench. They are simply identical. They even have the same part number stamped on one side, and the a4 and a3 stamped on the other. I can only assume the a4 and a3 indicators are there to let you know they are a pair. I'm confident they are ok.

In other news: She lives!

https://youtu.be/-4ffXgq6fPQ

I took this video after the first warm up and the second oil/filter change. Its great to see it idling smooth, but I'm not counting my chicks before they hatch; the real test will be if the bottom end lasts for the next 80k miles.

Not all is well however, I noticed the CEL was on, so I checked the codes while it was warming up. It came back with a P0748, problem with the Gov pressure solenoid in the tranny. Dun dun DUN! I'm actually not too worried by that. I have some transmission building experience on Ford E40Ds my dad and I both had. These are very similar. I'm going to chase wires first and see if I can find an issue, but worst case scenario, I'll have to drop the tranny pan.

Per my earlier concern, I'm not going to go putting the Jeep in gear until I have the tranny issue resolved.

I do wonder about the tranny fluid level... I lost some when I first pulled the motor (tranny leaned back and spilled out the fill hole, I'm guessing a quart or two), and low fluid level could potentially cause the P0748 code... But I don't know how I would check the tranny fluid level without putting it in gear, which I'm scared to death of doing, for fear of wrecking my new thrust bearing and crank. Maybe I'm just safer to swap the solenoid out. It would be like $200 total for the Solenoid, sensor, tranny pan gasket, and fluid.
RIGHT ON! GOOD TO HEAR! Absolutely. if you got a bubble of air in the trans pick up tube for some reason while juggling it around it might throw a code for the one bubble incident. Maybe someone knows more about these than I do, but I have never heard of a trans tearing up a thrust unless for some reason the torque converter wasn't splined in all the way pushing it forward into the thrust maybe? Or the pilot not going all the way into the crank pocket maybe? Really, I've never seen it?
Old 10-08-2017, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
RIGHT ON! GOOD TO HEAR! Absolutely. if you got a bubble of air in the trans pick up tube for some reason while juggling it around it might throw a code for the one bubble incident. Maybe someone knows more about these than I do, but I have never heard of a trans tearing up a thrust unless for some reason the torque converter wasn't splined in all the way pushing it forward into the thrust maybe? Or the pilot not going all the way into the crank pocket maybe? Really, I've never seen it?
There are also some somewhat unverified reports of a torque converter "ballooning..." But I'm not super worried about that.

There are some reports of too much pressure from the tranny pump wearing out thrust bearings. That, and the fact that the issue my transmission can be pump pressure related has me in a very cautious mood. Funny though, because this transmission was rebuilt 2 years ago, and didn't have any issues before the engine swap.
Old 10-08-2017, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
There are also some somewhat unverified reports of a torque converter "ballooning..." But I'm not super worried about that.

There are some reports of too much pressure from the tranny pump wearing out thrust bearings. That, and the fact that the issue my transmission can be pump pressure related has me in a very cautious mood. Funny though, because this transmission was rebuilt 2 years ago, and didn't have any issues before the engine swap.
Curious? was there any pressure on the bell housing bolts when you drew them up or did the bell housing slide up face to face without any restrictions? Second question would be, did the torque converter bolts have plenty of clearance and play before it was bolted through the flexplate? If not I think you are good mechanically.
Old 10-08-2017, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Curious? was there any pressure on the bell housing bolts when you drew them up or did the bell housing slide up face to face without any restrictions? Second question would be, did the torque converter bolts have plenty of clearance and play before it was bolted through the flexplate? If not I think you are good mechanically.
No pressure on the bell housing bolts. Seated nice and easy. Torque converter spun freely until I bolted it to the flywheel. the torque converter bolts barely could reach and get into the threads on the TC.

Interesting thought... I have the reciept and warranty paperwork for the transmission rebuild done by AAMCO. According to the paperwork, the warranty is good until 12/17. I wonder if I could get them to chase down and fix the tranny issue for me. I hate to get my hopes up though, there are three reasons that might not work:

1. The rebuild job was done by a previous owner
2. The solenoid might be classified as an "electrical part" that is not covered
3. They might have an issue with the fact that I have had the transmission down and up again 3 times now.

I'll call tomorrow. It would sure be nice if they would just take care of it. If not, I'd probably get it done faster anyway. I can't take more time off work, but I can put a few hours a day in anyway.
Old 10-09-2017, 12:15 AM
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The more I read, the less likely I feel the open or short gov pressure solenoid could damage the engine. It would cause the transmission to fail to automatically shift. I'm going to chase wires to see if I can find anything obvious tomorrow. After that maybe I'll get the guts up to drive it a bit and check the tranny fluid level.

Any thoughts?
Old 10-09-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
Torque converter spun freely until I bolted it to the flywheel. the torque converter bolts barely could reach and get into the threads on the TC.
OK hold on here... The TC should have slid up against the flexplate fully with no restrictions at all with the bolts "fully and completely" through the holes. You should have had full and complete threads on those bolts if it is sliding up correctly. There should have been no "barely reaching" issues at all.

Are we sure the nose pilot on the TC is actually sliding all the way into the back of the crank like it should without bottoming out or binding? This needs to be rechecked just to be sure. They very well could have accidentally installed the wrong TC back when they did the trans. It has happened before.
Old 10-09-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
The more I read, the less likely I feel the open or short gov pressure solenoid could damage the engine. It would cause the transmission to fail to automatically shift. I'm going to chase wires to see if I can find anything obvious tomorrow. After that maybe I'll get the guts up to drive it a bit and check the tranny fluid level.

Any thoughts?
These things are pretty forgiving.
Old 10-09-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
OK hold on here... The TC should have slid up against the flexplate fully with no restrictions at all with the bolts "fully and completely" through the holes. You should have had full and complete threads on those bolts if it is sliding up correctly. There should have been no "barely reaching" issues at all.

Are we sure the nose pilot on the TC is actually sliding all the way into the back of the crank like it should without bottoming out or binding? This needs to be rechecked just to be sure. They very well could have accidentally installed the wrong TC back when they did the trans. It has happened before.
The tc did fully and easily slide up to the flexplate. The bolts pulled it up to it. I was able to get it seated just finger tightening, so no pilot binding issues at all... then I torqued them down to spec.

What I was trying to say by "barely reaching" is that there was a small gap between the flexplate and the tc before the tc is bolted up, as there should be when the tc is fully seated in the bell housing, and the bell housing is bolted to the block. The tc bolts aren't very long, and you have to use them to bridge the little gap to grab the threads on the torque converter to and pull it flat to the flexplate. They do reach without any drama. It's the same with the Ford transmissions I've put in. I'm confident I've got the tranny up right.

Last edited by sambroom; 10-09-2017 at 08:56 AM.
Old 10-09-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
These things are pretty forgiving.
Are you saying you think it should be ok to go ahead and try putting it in gear? I think that is the route I'm ultimately going to go because there is no way to check the tranny fluid level otherwise...
Old 10-09-2017, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
Are you saying you think it should be ok to go ahead and try putting it in gear? I think that is the route I'm ultimately going to go because there is no way to check the tranny fluid level otherwise...
You have to pull the trigger and try at some point... lol And it is best to run it though the gears one time before going back to neutral to check the fluid. Keep in mind the fluid should still read a little low because it won't be as hot as it should be to get a proper reading.
Old 10-09-2017, 09:03 AM
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Wait! I'm confused now. He's got the "old" crank in it now with the "old" flexplate and "old" converter, right? There shouldn't be a pilot problem with the converter. I can see the bolts just barely reaching, but the converter should slide up tight with one bolt or by prying on it slightly. The thrust bearing failure was from the vehicle it was in before.

What was the reason for the engine swap anyway?
Old 10-09-2017, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
Wait! I'm confused now. He's got the "old" crank in it now with the "old" flexplate and "old" converter, right? There shouldn't be a pilot problem with the converter. I can see the bolts just barely reaching, but the converter should slide up tight with one bolt or by prying on it slightly. The thrust bearing failure was from the vehicle it was in before.

What was the reason for the engine swap anyway?
That is correct. The old crank with the old flexplate and old torque converter. All happily re-united. No pilot problems. The tc slid up tight with just finger tightening.
Old 10-09-2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
You have to pull the trigger and try at some point... lol And it is best to run it though the gears one time before going back to neutral to check the fluid. Keep in mind the fluid should still read a little low because it won't be as hot as it should be to get a proper reading.
After cycling through the gears, I should check in neutral, not park?
Old 10-09-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
Wait! I'm confused now. He's got the "old" crank in it now with the "old" flexplate and "old" converter, right? There shouldn't be a pilot problem with the converter. I can see the bolts just barely reaching, but the converter should slide up tight with one bolt or by prying on it slightly. The thrust bearing failure was from the vehicle it was in before.

What was the reason for the engine swap anyway?
That should be the case Dave. Everything should be good because it was all back with the same crank it had before. But the "barely reaching" thing has me a bit worried. Is this common for these? I have never seen a TC/crank/flexplate assembly where the bolts barely reached if everything is as it should be.

Last edited by Bugout4x4; 10-09-2017 at 09:23 AM.
Old 10-09-2017, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sambroom
After cycling through the gears, I should check in neutral, not park?
Yes, All Chryslers do this. And I don't know why... I filled mine properly while hot and then scratched a mark on the stick the next morning so that I can check it cold and not even running. lol

Last edited by Bugout4x4; 10-09-2017 at 09:22 AM.



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