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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
Did you happen to ask him if it was OK to drive it?
I did. He didn't recommend putting it in gear, but mostly to protect the tranny. I'm going to just pull the main drive shaft out and have my brother tug me. I'll run the engine for breaks and power steering though.
I did. He didn't recommend putting it in gear, but mostly to protect the tranny. I'm going to just pull the main drive shaft out and have my brother tug me. I'll run the engine for breaks and power steering though.
You are doing the right thing by being a little gun shy with this. It probably would be a risk and maybe a mistake, but I would have had it out in the mud already. lol Glad you are exercising the patience to do it right.
You are doing the right thing by being a little gun shy with this. It probably would be a risk and maybe a mistake, but I would have had it out in the mud already. lol Glad you are exercising the patience to do it right.
Haha. I just can't afford another major repair right now. If this engine blows or the tranny is bad, I'm scootin' this jeep off a cliff.
I actually kind of wonder if its cursed... The previous owner dropped over $6,000 into it over the last 2 years, getting the tranny and transfer case rebuilt, head gasket replaced and other odds and ends... Only to have the engine go bad last Spring. So he'd had enough and sold it to me with a bad engine for $350. Now I have put in around $2,000 and many, many hours into it with the newer motor, rebuilding the new motor and other odds and ends, and there's still more. What a money pit haha. I hope that all this 'investing' will land me with a fresh reliable jeep; I keep thinking I see light at the end of the tunnel, and then it's gone
I think just doing the engine on this jeep would have been great if luck was more on my side, but the ironic thing is you can buy 2000-2004 WJs in decent shape for about $2,500-$3,000 around here. I'd have been better off.
Must have got pinched somehow while I was dropping the motor it. I repaired the wires and that took care of the 02 sensor code, but the gov pressure sensor code is still there. I had planned to tug the jeep to a shop tonight and just pay for a diagnostic, but I have all the stuff to swap the sensor and solenoid sitting here and I'm tempted to just do it... im a little worried that I'll waste my $300 of parts and fluid though, and it turns out to be a wire problem somewhere else...
Must have got pinched somehow while I was dropping the motor it. I repaired the wires and that took care of the 02 sensor code, but the gov pressure sensor code is still there. I had planned to tug the jeep to a shop tonight and just pay for a diagnostic, but I have all the stuff to swap the sensor and solenoid sitting here and I'm tempted to just do it... im a little worried that I'll waste my $300 of parts and fluid though, and it turns out to be a wire problem somewhere else...
Thoughts??
Thoughts?? Yep, I think you squashed it! lol I'm not going to make that call... Depends on what you think they are going to charge you to check and repair the issue if it's not the sensor. But know what you could do since you have a new sensor sitting there? Ohms test the old one and compare it to the new one. If they are the same then the old one is probably still good.
Thoughts?? Yep, I think you squashed it! lol I'm not going to make that call... Depends on what you think they are going to charge you to check and repair the issue if it's not the sensor. But know what you could do since you have a new sensor sitting there? Ohms test the old one and compare it to the new one. If they are the same then the old one is probably still good.
I got it! I'm proud to say I'm now a jeep driver, not just a jeep owner!
It wasn't the sensor or solenoid at all. It was just a wire. One wire. I dug into the service manual to find the connector pins at the PCM for the gov pressure sensor and gov pressure solenoid control, so I could more easily check resistance. The sensor measured exactly like the new one, but the solenoid wasn't there. hmm. So I tested from the pin at the PCM to the pin on the transmission wire harness. No continuity. Ah-ha! Found the break in minutes, patched it up, and I'm in business! No codes!
I took it for a good spin, over 30 miles. Smooth motor and tranny. I'm still super paranoid and treating it like its made out of glass though, lol! I probably won't trust it for a good few weeks.
It looks like I really have just had myself to blame for some of my "bad luck" (well, except for the bad crank in my replacement motor... That was a dishonest person). I should have been more careful dropping the mill in, not to squash wires! I'm learning a ton from this experience for sure!
I got it! I'm proud to say I'm now a jeep driver, not just a jeep owner!
It wasn't the sensor or solenoid at all. It was just a wire. One wire. I dug into the service manual to find the connector pins at the PCM for the gov pressure sensor and gov pressure solenoid control, so I could more easily check resistance. The sensor measured exactly like the new one, but the solenoid wasn't there. hmm. So I tested from the pin at the PCM to the pin on the transmission wire harness. No continuity. Ah-ha! Found the break in minutes, patched it up, and I'm in business! No codes!
I took it for a good spin, over 30 miles. Smooth motor and tranny. I'm still super paranoid and treating it like its made out of glass though, lol! I probably won't trust it for a good few weeks.
It looks like I really have just had myself to blame for some of my "bad luck" (well, except for the bad crank in my drop-in... That was a dishonest person). I should have been more careful dropping the mill in, not to squash wires! I'm learning a ton from this experience for sure!
Fantastic! Yeah, I always go through that "don't stray too far from home until you are sure" thing too.
So, we're about done with this post, are we? Don't stray too far! We all want to know what happens.
This has peaked my curiosity enough to go talk to my engine guru and see if he has any experience with washed out thrust bearings in an engine running on an automatic transmission. According to my 42re manual, the most pressure the converter sees is 130 psi with the clutch engaged. Normal lube pressure should be around 50-75 psi.
So, we're about done with this post, are we? Don't stray too far! We all want to know what happens.
This has peaked my curiosity enough to go talk to my engine guru and see if he has any experience with washed out thrust bearings in an engine running on an automatic transmission. According to my 42re manual, the most pressure the converter sees is 130 psi with the clutch engaged. Normal lube pressure should be around 50-75 psi.
I drove the jeep another 40 miles to my office this morning. It still seems to be running without a hitch. I'll update in a few days. You'll definitely hear from me if it hits the fan! lol!
Interesting. I read somewhere that the crank should be able to handle a max of 210 psi.
So far so good, but I got myself a noise to worry about. Its been doing it since I first started driving last night, but I only decided to worry about it this afternoon. You can't hear it at all in the cab, and underneath you can only hear it at idle. its not very loud, but it is prominent. It sounds like it is coming right from the flex plate. Its sort of a ticking sound (not a knocking sound). I'm thinking maybe my flexplate is unbalanced or bent?
So, we're about done with this post, are we? Don't stray too far! We all want to know what happens.
This has peaked my curiosity enough to go talk to my engine guru and see if he has any experience with washed out thrust bearings in an engine running on an automatic transmission. According to my 42re manual, the most pressure the converter sees is 130 psi with the clutch engaged. Normal lube pressure should be around 50-75 psi.
Please let me know what you discover with this Dave. I am still chasing down the A3-A4 thing to be sure. See, you and I are from the days when "Blueprinting" was the fad and these little details were much more important than most would ever understand. Back to your end gap and ring groove comment.
Even the manufacturer "fits" different sized bearings in the same engine from the factory to dial it in. They still have yet to figure out how to actually cut all the journals "exactly" same.
Yeah but they have bearings in .001" steps at their fingertips. We can't get them as easily. The most common fit is .0005 to .0015. With the Chevys I was happy with .002. No more than that.
Yeah but they have bearings in .001" steps at their fingertips. We can't get them as easily. The most common fit is .0005 to .0015. With the Chevys I was happy with .002. No more than that.
Actually the .001 steps in either or top or bottom can still be had and ordered one shell at a time. But... The total cost will be three or four times what a matched generic set is or more. But the question becomes Why? With these motors and limited revolutions it will probably never be that important or critical. The Crank will snap before those little differences in the bearings add up.
10-10-2017, 10:02 AM
It probably would be a risk and maybe a mistake, but I would have had it out in the mud already. lol Glad you are exercising the patience to do it right.
