Grand Cherokee no reverse neutral is drive
#31
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Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
The center console shifter shows that it is in neutral /park/reverse/drive/ so is there another way to verify that the transmission it self is actually in the gear range the center console shifter shows it's in because I have tried three different ways to adjust the shift cable and guessing it's still not adjusted correctly is what I'm getting from what your telling me
#32
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Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
The shift cable moves several things within the transmission.
The gear selector lever on the transmission rotates the cylinder attached to an assembly that moves the manual valve. As shown in this valve body image, there is also a purple arc attached to that assembly. That arc has depressions at neutral and at park. The transmission assembly image shows the Park / Neutral switch. The plunger on that switch falls into the depression on that purple arc, completing the circuit for the starter.
The shift cable must be adjusted such that the manual valve position corresponds to the center console shift lever position. It must also satisfy the Park / Neutral start switch.
If the transmission is in Drive while the console is in Neutral then the cable is not adjusted properly.
The gear selector lever on the transmission rotates the cylinder attached to an assembly that moves the manual valve. As shown in this valve body image, there is also a purple arc attached to that assembly. That arc has depressions at neutral and at park. The transmission assembly image shows the Park / Neutral switch. The plunger on that switch falls into the depression on that purple arc, completing the circuit for the starter.
The shift cable must be adjusted such that the manual valve position corresponds to the center console shift lever position. It must also satisfy the Park / Neutral start switch.
If the transmission is in Drive while the console is in Neutral then the cable is not adjusted properly.
#33
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The issue on mine was a no start condition (that purple throttle body arc was not making the switch "happy").
My process removed the cable "slop" that existed on my vehicle, so the vehicle would always start and continued to select the correct shift position.
#34
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Note that if the cable is correctly adjusted, then there are two defects that could cause the symptom of Drive when the lever is in Neutral.
One is the bent tang that moves the manual valve on the valve body assembly might be damaged, causing excessive slop between those parts. That tang and the manual valve are in the image, at the tip of the curved purple arc part. There should be minimal slop between these two parts. Note this is a remote possibility.
The other defect is that the valve body manual valve cylindrical spool valve might be physically damaged, permitting a high pressure fluid leak into the Drive circuit when it is set in Neutral. Note this is a VERY, Very, very remote possibility.
The "easy" way to confirm the cable is incorrectly adjusted is to remove the cable. Properly and safely manually rotate the gear selector lever to each of the positions with the engine running to confirm proper or problematic operation. Note there is a spring loaded ball bearing detent at each position, Park / Reverse / Neutral / Drive / M2 / M1. That ball bearing spring loaded detent is shown in the valve body image. If the transmission provides Drive in Neutral when manually selected w/ the cable disconnected then the transmission has one of the valve body problems listed above. If the transmission works properly, then that confirms the cable is incorrectly adjusted.
One is the bent tang that moves the manual valve on the valve body assembly might be damaged, causing excessive slop between those parts. That tang and the manual valve are in the image, at the tip of the curved purple arc part. There should be minimal slop between these two parts. Note this is a remote possibility.
The other defect is that the valve body manual valve cylindrical spool valve might be physically damaged, permitting a high pressure fluid leak into the Drive circuit when it is set in Neutral. Note this is a VERY, Very, very remote possibility.
The "easy" way to confirm the cable is incorrectly adjusted is to remove the cable. Properly and safely manually rotate the gear selector lever to each of the positions with the engine running to confirm proper or problematic operation. Note there is a spring loaded ball bearing detent at each position, Park / Reverse / Neutral / Drive / M2 / M1. That ball bearing spring loaded detent is shown in the valve body image. If the transmission provides Drive in Neutral when manually selected w/ the cable disconnected then the transmission has one of the valve body problems listed above. If the transmission works properly, then that confirms the cable is incorrectly adjusted.
#35
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Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Note that if the cable is correctly adjusted, then there are two defects that could cause the symptom of Drive when the lever is in Neutral.
One is the bent tang that moves the manual valve on the valve body assembly might be damaged, causing excessive slop between those parts. That tang and the manual valve are in the image, at the tip of the curved purple arc part. There should be minimal slop between these two parts. Note this is a remote possibility.
The other defect is that the valve body manual valve cylindrical spool valve might be physically damaged, permitting a high pressure fluid leak into the Drive circuit when it is set in Neutral. Note this is a VERY, Very, very remote possibility.
The "easy" way to confirm the cable is incorrectly adjusted is to remove the cable. Properly and safely manually rotate the gear selector lever to each of the positions with the engine running to confirm proper or problematic operation. Note there is a spring loaded ball bearing detent at each position, Park / Reverse / Neutral / Drive / M2 / M1. That ball bearing spring loaded detent is shown in the valve body image. If the transmission provides Drive in Neutral when manually selected w/ the cable disconnected then the transmission has one of the valve body problems listed above. If the transmission works properly, then that confirms the cable is incorrectly adjusted.
One is the bent tang that moves the manual valve on the valve body assembly might be damaged, causing excessive slop between those parts. That tang and the manual valve are in the image, at the tip of the curved purple arc part. There should be minimal slop between these two parts. Note this is a remote possibility.
The other defect is that the valve body manual valve cylindrical spool valve might be physically damaged, permitting a high pressure fluid leak into the Drive circuit when it is set in Neutral. Note this is a VERY, Very, very remote possibility.
The "easy" way to confirm the cable is incorrectly adjusted is to remove the cable. Properly and safely manually rotate the gear selector lever to each of the positions with the engine running to confirm proper or problematic operation. Note there is a spring loaded ball bearing detent at each position, Park / Reverse / Neutral / Drive / M2 / M1. That ball bearing spring loaded detent is shown in the valve body image. If the transmission provides Drive in Neutral when manually selected w/ the cable disconnected then the transmission has one of the valve body problems listed above. If the transmission works properly, then that confirms the cable is incorrectly adjusted.
I'll run some more diagnosis when I get off work today
#36
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As an example, when I rebuilt my 46RH transmission I used the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit (Not the OS kit) and it included the manual valve. That was a one-for-one swap out.
If there is somehow too much slop between the tang and the manual valve, then I am not sure of the solution, as the part w/ the tang is not a replacement part.
#37
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Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
If you look back at my original post I stated in there that I had already disconnected shift cable from gear selector lever and shifted between gear ranges manually . After switching through gear ranges MANUALLY , I was able to get reverse to catch and it worked for about a month then same thing happened and I went through the same procedure again and now here I am ! That is why I never suspected the shift cable to be incorrectly adjusted in the first place.
But I also never tried to manually switch through gear ranges with the vehicle raised off the ground I don't know if that would make a difference or not but I'll give it a shot when I get off work today
But I also never tried to manually switch through gear ranges with the vehicle raised off the ground I don't know if that would make a difference or not but I'll give it a shot when I get off work today
#38
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It would be a BIG surprise to me if those parts are bad.
As an example, when I rebuilt my 46RH transmission I used the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit (Not the OS kit) and it included the manual valve. That was a one-for-one swap out.
If there is somehow too much slop between the tang and the manual valve, then I am not sure of the solution, as the part w/ the tang is not a replacement part.
As an example, when I rebuilt my 46RH transmission I used the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit (Not the OS kit) and it included the manual valve. That was a one-for-one swap out.
If there is somehow too much slop between the tang and the manual valve, then I am not sure of the solution, as the part w/ the tang is not a replacement part.
#39
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Start w/ safe confirmation of transmission action during manual gear selection w/ the shift cable disconnected.
#40
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I have done it multiple times already but I will check it again as soon as possible got my daughters birthday today so will check it as soon as I can and get back to you
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#42
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Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
When problem first occured I shifted it manually and had to run around through the gears ranges a couple times but eventually was able to get it to go in reverse and have neutral with engine running reattached shift cable and work great besides had a delay and a little sluggish in reverse but worked
About a month later same issues occured and I went through same procedure multiple times but could never get it to actually move in reverse.
And please note I have done this whole procedure with shift cable disconnected from gear selector and shifting it manuallyy from underneath the vehicle with engine running parking break set and vehicle on the ground and could feel reverse engage but would not actually move I have yet to try this procedure with vehicle raised off the ground but I don't know how that would make a difference but I can give it a shot
And now here I am talking to you lol
#43
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And please note I have done this whole procedure with shift cable disconnected from gear selector and shifting it manuallyy from underneath the vehicle with engine running parking break set and vehicle on the ground and could feel reverse engage but would not actually move I have yet to try this procedure with vehicle raised off the ground but I don't know how that would make a difference but I can give it a shot
#44
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Yes I do know that wich is why wheels were chalked and had a secondary person in vehicle holding brakes plus I was parked against a curb so vehicle could not roll unless throttle was pushed safety first