How do you remove the steering wheel?
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
How do you remove the steering wheel?
So my friends 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited needs to have the clock spring replaced. This morning I started to tackle the job but had to abort as I am unable to remove the steering wheel.
What I have tried:
I'll expand upon the last bullet as that's how I attempted to remove the steering wheel. Extensive reading on the Internet revealed a lot of difficulty in remove the steering wheel. People who used this claw type puller had problems with the claws slipping off. What I was able to learn is that two claws, at nine and three o'clock were the correct way to remove the wheel. So I configured the claws at opposite one another.
I then placed the claw "tooth" under the steer wheel at nine and three o'clock and proceeded to tighten the loosening screw against the steering wheel shaft. I torqued it pretty good but the wheel did not budge. Given the amount of torque I was beginning to apply I decided to stop and reexamine everything to ensure it was properly set up and that I had removed everything necessary to remove the steering wheel. From what I am able to tell the only thing holding the steering wheel on is the center nut.
Since the loosening nut was beginning to mar the top of the steering column shaft I inserted a metal plate to act like a washer and protect it. Again I torqued down on the loosening screw and nothing. Not wanting to damage anything I again backed off. I did apply some WD-40 and went to grab some lunch. When I came back...no joy...the wheel is on and doesn't want to budge.
So my question is: Any advice? I read a lot about problems being experienced removing the steering wheel but it appears I've done everything that was said in order to remove it. So I'm stumped. It could merely be a matter of apply more torque but I'm afraid to damage something. This should be an easy / low cost repair if I don't.
Thanks!
What I have tried:
- Directly pulling on the steering wheel. I didn't really expect this to work but it was simple enough to try before I tried other methods.
- Obtained one of Autozones loaner steering wheel pullers. This puller is specifically made for removing the steering wheel. It has two side flanges for which I can insert the removal bolts and the bolts screw into the steering wheel. Problem is the steering wheel does not have any holes for which to secure the screws.
- Obtained one of Autozones "claw" pullers (part number 27183). This can be configured for either two or three claws.
I'll expand upon the last bullet as that's how I attempted to remove the steering wheel. Extensive reading on the Internet revealed a lot of difficulty in remove the steering wheel. People who used this claw type puller had problems with the claws slipping off. What I was able to learn is that two claws, at nine and three o'clock were the correct way to remove the wheel. So I configured the claws at opposite one another.
I then placed the claw "tooth" under the steer wheel at nine and three o'clock and proceeded to tighten the loosening screw against the steering wheel shaft. I torqued it pretty good but the wheel did not budge. Given the amount of torque I was beginning to apply I decided to stop and reexamine everything to ensure it was properly set up and that I had removed everything necessary to remove the steering wheel. From what I am able to tell the only thing holding the steering wheel on is the center nut.
Since the loosening nut was beginning to mar the top of the steering column shaft I inserted a metal plate to act like a washer and protect it. Again I torqued down on the loosening screw and nothing. Not wanting to damage anything I again backed off. I did apply some WD-40 and went to grab some lunch. When I came back...no joy...the wheel is on and doesn't want to budge.
So my question is: Any advice? I read a lot about problems being experienced removing the steering wheel but it appears I've done everything that was said in order to remove it. So I'm stumped. It could merely be a matter of apply more torque but I'm afraid to damage something. This should be an easy / low cost repair if I don't.
Thanks!
#2
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 730
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I know you're trying to save money by doing the job yourself but here's what I did and am satisfied with the result.
I had an intermittent airbag light and needed to have it fixed before state inspection. Because the clockspring is a known problem, I had the dealer diagnose it to be sure that was the problem. That cost me $114. They found it was an open circuit on the steering wheel squib which would cause the airbag NOT to deploy in an accident. They had to order the clockspring because they didn't have one in stock.
Two days later, they called me to bring it in in the morning. An hour and a half later, it was fixed. This cost me an additional $418, $300 for the clockspring and $118 for labor. In my opinion, not bad for a dealer service.
The reason I had the dealer do the repair was because I get nervous working with airbags. My brother had one go off in his face trying to do this same thing. NOT a pleasant experience. He looked like he'd stepped into the ring with Mike Tyson.
I had an intermittent airbag light and needed to have it fixed before state inspection. Because the clockspring is a known problem, I had the dealer diagnose it to be sure that was the problem. That cost me $114. They found it was an open circuit on the steering wheel squib which would cause the airbag NOT to deploy in an accident. They had to order the clockspring because they didn't have one in stock.
Two days later, they called me to bring it in in the morning. An hour and a half later, it was fixed. This cost me an additional $418, $300 for the clockspring and $118 for labor. In my opinion, not bad for a dealer service.
The reason I had the dealer do the repair was because I get nervous working with airbags. My brother had one go off in his face trying to do this same thing. NOT a pleasant experience. He looked like he'd stepped into the ring with Mike Tyson.
Last edited by dave1123; 07-20-2014 at 07:25 PM.
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BloNdeChiNeEz (10-03-2020)
#3
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
I know you're trying to save money by doing the job yourself but here's what I did and am satisfied with the result.
I had an intermittent airbag light and needed to have it fixed before state inspection. Because the clockspring is a known problem, I had the dealer diagnose it to be sure that was the problem. That cost me $114. They found it was an open circuit on the steering wheel squib which would cause the airbag NOT to deploy in an accident. They had to order the clockspring because they didn't have one in stock.
Two days later, they called me to bring it in in the morning. An hour and a half later, it was fixed. This cost me an additional $418, $300 for the clockspring and $118 for labor. In my opinion, not bad for a dealer service.
The reason I had the dealer do the repair was because I get nervous working with airbags. My brother had one go off in his face trying to do this same thing. NOT a pleasant experience. He looked like he'd stepped into the ring with Mike Tyson.
I had an intermittent airbag light and needed to have it fixed before state inspection. Because the clockspring is a known problem, I had the dealer diagnose it to be sure that was the problem. That cost me $114. They found it was an open circuit on the steering wheel squib which would cause the airbag NOT to deploy in an accident. They had to order the clockspring because they didn't have one in stock.
Two days later, they called me to bring it in in the morning. An hour and a half later, it was fixed. This cost me an additional $418, $300 for the clockspring and $118 for labor. In my opinion, not bad for a dealer service.
The reason I had the dealer do the repair was because I get nervous working with airbags. My brother had one go off in his face trying to do this same thing. NOT a pleasant experience. He looked like he'd stepped into the ring with Mike Tyson.
#4
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 730
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The only thing different you could do is torque up the puller, then whack the tensioned bolt ONCE with a heavy hammer. If it doesn't pop off then, take it to someone more qualified. I seem to remember doing that on a Chevy truck. There was a heavy spring behind that one to keep the nut tight.
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
The only thing different you could do is torque up the puller, then whack the tensioned bolt ONCE with a heavy hammer. If it doesn't pop off then, take it to someone more qualified. I seem to remember doing that on a Chevy truck. There was a heavy spring behind that one to keep the nut tight.
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