TrailerTrash

Thats a good idea about going to a local shop. there might be a big rig shop nearby or one that does bigger vehicles like RVs.

take your torque wrench along and ones they break it loose tighten it down to like 100 lb/ft and put the locking stuff and cotter key back in for the ride home

50.Cal

I go them off! Such a relief! I haven't been this happy since my kids were born!

Now, a few last questions for you guys and I do really appreciate all of your help.
1) Do I need to grease the new axle shafts?
2) Should I put anti-seize on all bolts? Wheel bearing bolts, hub bolt?
3) I know the old saying if it aint broke don't fix it but I have a set of new Dana ball joints. The ball joints on there are fine but since I'm down there.....?

Thanks again everybody!

dave1123

Ball joints? Go for it!

The one place you're going to really want antiseize is around the outside of the bearing hubs where they meet the steering knuckles. Removing them is another place you may need heat. The 3 hub mounting bolts can be hard to remove because they are 12-point heads. They are either 1/2" or 13mm, whichever wrench fits the tightest. They're going to require an extension on a box-end wrench. I'd grease the axle splines lightly. They don't rust together because of the constant flexing they go thru.

Some of the later axles don't use any locking cotter pins, but if you do have them you can use a little antiseize on the threads. If it's just a locking nut, don't use any.