OldRed88

trailer2,

graphite? why is that better than WD-40? Never used the product, but willing to try if that works.

OldRed88

thx everyone for feedback. I have a few more days to work with this now. Can be a little more patient now. Will try working it over a bit more, see if I can move the parts more, before tearing apart the steering will. I'll keep checkin in.

If I cannot get it to finally break lose, is the link I reference above by AboveTimberLine sufficient? Or, do I need any other info?

thx again to everyone that responded.

trailer2

Graphite is used for lock cylinders. Also I was not clear on what to do, you need to put the key in the ignition and hit the key on the end. Not super hard but firm.

OldRed88

thx Trailer, I've seen a few people recommend this, so I'll try your suggestion w/careful application. Just don't want to damage anything else. Although, not sure it would if I have to eventually take the ignition switch out anyway.

Fortunately I have more time now to solve this problem and can take my time to think clearly w/o rushing. As I "progress" or digress, I'll update this post.

Mugs

This happened to me...unfortunatley you'll need a new cyclinder.
Around $70 as stated above. Relatively EASY to replace.....but if you have a security key, you will need to change the tumblers to match your key. I screwed this up myself....I should NOT have touched the tumblers.
I forget the name of the company that makes the new ignition cyclinders but they have a great video on how to replace it...easy to do. The webiste is on the instructions with the new cylinder.
Once you replace, you can hold the old security key up to the ignition to get it started. But, you will have to do this everytime you try and start.
I suggest getting a new programmable security key or take it to a locksmith to change the tumblers.
Also, in order to remove the old cyclinder you are required to move the key into the "on" or "accessory" position in order to take the old one out!! How is this possible when you can't turn the key, right?
I had to take out the whole module and hammer the old one out. Came out pretty easy though without damaging the module.
Wish I had taken pictures when I did mine....since this seems to be a common problem.
Good Luck....

Mugs

You will also need the special Torx bits with the recessed hole in the tip to get your console and module out..a regular torx bit won't work.
Look up security torx bits.....and you'll see what I mean.
You can't see the head of the torx bits on your console....they are deeply recessed and out of view. You will fight it if you use a regular torx bit, they won't work....don't ask me how I know.

OldRed88

Thx Mugs,

So I need a Torx Bits, special ones. Do u have an online reference by chance? Not sure where to find these.

The Key. were the 88 Jeep keys programmable? I have a simple key, non-programmable. I have very little documentation on this at present. Will be signing up with Online Repair manuals soon.

Cylinder? This is different from the Ignition Switch(where the key goes)?

Thx! Good to know someone has done this before.

OldRed88

OK, not sure what to look for... here's a link I found...

http://www.acmejeepparts.com/product...02+01&h=&spg=t

I'll have more time tonight to research. Right now, I'm short on time. Thx for info. I'll check back later tonight and keep updating as I progress.

OldRed88

I already purchased an ignition switch w/keys so I should not have to set the tumbers?. I'm assuming this is what you mean by cylinder?

Mugs

Ahhh...an 88. Probably not programmable. So you should be good to go.
Also...you may NOT need the special torx. You will have to try a regular torx....they may even just be Phillips screws on that year!!! If neither work.....you will need them. Go to McMaster Carr website and search for Tamper Resistant Torx Bits.

When you look up "Lock Cyclinder" on your local auto parts store website, it will tell you if the Cylinder comes with a key. They always do. Yes, this is the Lock Switch....(Cylinder).

It's easy to do.....3 screws to remove your console on your steering column. A couple screws and a couple harness clips to remove your Cyclinder module. Once you get it out.....you will have to basically break the old lock cylinder inside the module until it will come out. There is a little spring loaded tab on the lock cylinder....you'll see it. Take a hammer to it (Can't believe I'm saying that but it's the only way) and it will cave in.....remove your old cylinder and put new one it. The little tab on the lock cylinder is made of cheap cast metal....it will break easily and the cylinder will slide out.

Mugs

Nah...my advice is, don't mess with the tumblers!!! Just use 2 keys. One for the ignition and one for the door.
The tumblers need to be matched precisely.....I took mine apart as per the directions and I messed one of the tumblers up.....my truck still starts but I can't get the key to the accessory position since I screwed one of the tumblers up that unlocks the accessory position.....well, when you can't get to the accessory position you can't take the tumbler back out!!!! Lucklily it was the accessory position tumbler that I screwed up. SO if I want to go back in and adjust the tumblers I can't....unless I buy another cyclinder.
My truck starts so thats all I care about at this point.

Mugs

To break the lock cyclinder tab I put decent sized screw driver on it and hit it with a hammer....once it was crushed the cyclinder came right out. It's tough to damage the inginition module....unless your really careless.
I put it in a vice and hammered it....

PatriotGT

If you're in need of the security torx bits, Harbor Freight
carries them in a kit.

OldRed88

Hey Mugs, thx for all the feedback. I'll be attempting to tear it apart this weekend. So will most likely have many more questions as I tear into it.

OldRed88

thx patriot, will look them up. hopefully will not need them.