Noah911

I have been curious about something. On the ZJ I purchased, the key only works to unlock the drivers side front door. Of course, it also works for the ignition. The passenger side front door lock it obviously uses a different key. The one I have does not unlock it like it does the drivers side. Neither of the rear doors have a spot for a key. Also, the rear drivers side door must be locked & unlocked manually from on the inside. The door lock switch in the front locks all the doors except for the one rear drivers side door. Finally, the key fob remote does not function to unlock/lock any doors.

I wonder what is up with all that? With the rear drivers door that doesn't work, I hear noises happening - sounds like a little motor or something of the sort trying to operate in the door when I push the front lock button.

There must be a reason for having a different lock on the front passenger door? I wonder why? Drivers side must be an original lock since the ignition key unlocks it.

Ralph77

My guess is that the passenger door is not original to the Jeep. Replaced at some point in time with a boneyard one. Maybe.
Does the key open the hatch?
Maybe the actuator is shot in the driver's side rear door.
The actuator could just need a good cleaning.
The lock rod could be binding up in there too.
Have you replaced the batteries in the fob?

Noah911

No. The key does not unlock the rear hatch either.. I forgot about that. All of the body and the doors and the hatch appear to be an exact match, weathering and all.

I have not put a new battery in the remote yet. I will try that and see if it works?

I may look at the door actuator some day? I think it's okay for now how it is.

I parked it and left it behind for while I go back down south to Florida. I won't be able to look at it any further until I come back up north again so... I gave it to my Brother-in-Law. Not really, but he can have it for right now. Maybe he'll fix something bout it?

Noah911

I was driving & thinking. I believe since earlier this year, January time-frame, I have went from 115,00 to 150,000 miles on my WJ. That is 35,000 miles in six months. That is a lot of miles!

During this time it has had a few things done to it.

A battery
Starter
Brake pads & Rotors
Thermostat, Water Pump, Coolant
Transmission Fluid
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Differential Fluid
Battery Terminals
Got a screw in a tire and patched the tire
Oil/Filter
A 20 Amp fuse for Aux-Outlet (blown )
Blower Motor
Gasoline

That's the run-down. Case ur wondering?

Noah911

Here is a picture of the WJ when I took it to Lebanon. There are a few Lebanon's around the world. This is Lebanon, Ohio

dave1123

Hi Noah! Another scenario is the ignition switch tumbler was replaced as well as the driver's door lock from the same donor vehicle. My 2000 doesn't have a hatch key lock, only the electric one. I've owned this jeep for 7 years and I can't honestly tell you if the passenger's door has a key lock! If you can hear the rear door lock actuator making noise, the linkage rods need lubrication. Funny thing is the driver's door latch is the only one in the jeep that's original. All the rest have been replaced with junkyard ones because of rust of the linkage arms and breakage of the latch cam springs. The body of these latches are glass-filled nylon, but all the internal parts are plain steel. Last I checked the dealer wants $150 per latch for replacements.

Wait until you get closer to 200K and start replacing wheel bearings, control arm bushings, tierod ends, engine sensors, and other electrical crap!

Noah911

Hey Dave! That is a possibility? I guess I will probably never really know for sure?

You are right! I have been thinking about this lately. With an older vehicle.. talking now getting into the hundreds of thousands of miles. And this thing sees such crummy terrain and harsh conditions all the time too.

I have been fortunate not to have any real major issues or repairs yet, but it is only a matter of time.. I have especially thought about the wheel bearings lately. I looked up stuff about replacing those some day. Also, all of the bushings and such look as though the better half of their service-life has probably come to an end. The steering components too. They are affected. The steering is a little loose. Not too bad, but I would like to tighten that up some day.

You never know though? All of everything could just keep on going and going... maybe for a long time (things may not be at their peak performance). It could all easily hold up and not outright fail for another 100/150 + thousand miles having not done any major repairs or replacements of anything? Until one day, everything about it all fails at once -vs- having done repairs or replacements and better maintinance along the way...

I don't know? Could basically start maintenance and/or replacement of probably most every part on it at this point. So, the thing to try and figure out is what should be looked at, and what should really be done prior to its failure. Since you ultimately only have to take care of what needs to be done.

We'll see? For now, I hope it keeps holding up okay... and is not too bad with what it needs done to it in the future?

Noah911

I got to thinking of possible future repairs... And forgot to update on the trip. There was a big race going on in Kentucky when I drove through. Had concessions set up all over the place. I had somewhere to be and couldn't stay to check it out, and kept driving.


I went with mid-grade gasoline for this trip and put a bottle of Techron Fuel System cleaner/treatment in at a fill-up.

Noah911

Is this usually the half-way point in its non-major maintenance/repair lifespan?

dave1123

I had 253K miles on mine before the engine change and now that's a problem, but that's another story. The big ones were a cracked 0331 head, a rear axle that went BOOM, which kicked the t/case out of 2wd and never went back in until I replaced that, then one cylinder started using lots of oil and fouling it's plug, finally developing a rod knock. I had a shortblock installed which went 1200 miles before the oil pressure totally failed and spun the bearings! That's where I'm at now, waiting for the engine rebuilder to make a decision on the warranty. I wouldn't have put all this work into it if the body wasn't pristine. It's white and just starting to show a little brown around the edges in a couple of places. It spent 1/2 of it's life in Southwestern PA and it was a pampered garage queen before I bought it. Now I'm beating the "F" out of it delivering newspapers.
picture when I bought it

Noah911

The 2004 I have does not have the engine with a possible bad head. I wonder if the problems you ended up having with the engine ultimately resulted from having the 0331 head, or if they were totally seperate issues?

Do you know what caused your axle to blow up? Something like having worn driveshaft joints putting excess stress wearing the gears down, fluid related, or not really sure? It really blew itself up/siezed? Just curious..

That is one unique looking Jeep! If it was their fault about the oil pressure, I hope the new engine people do the right thing for you.

dave1123

The axle is a D35 and the carrier case cracked at the pin that holds the spider gear cross shaft in place, it came out and jammed against the main case. Here's a pic of the pieces.

I can almost certainly count on the cracked head causing the other problems with the engine. No coolant got into the oil because it only cracked into the exhaust ports, but I had lots of steam and coolant dripping out of the tailpipe! Cylinder #4 was the one using the oil and #5 was the one with the rod knock. here's a pic of the inserts from #5.