At my wits end with my 04’ WJ Limited
08-03-2021, 12:01 PM
#46
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I’m to the point that I hate anything computerized!
Id rather run a carb and have points! I know those backwards and frontwards! I had a small block powered Vega in high school with a powerglide behind it! What a riot that thing was!
Plus I just received the tracking number for the replacement ecm/skim/key.
I’ll update once I get it installed.
Id rather run a carb and have points! I know those backwards and frontwards! I had a small block powered Vega in high school with a powerglide behind it! What a riot that thing was!
Plus I just received the tracking number for the replacement ecm/skim/key.
I’ll update once I get it installed.
Last edited by Biggerhammer; 08-03-2021 at 12:04 PM.
08-04-2021, 09:50 AM
#47
Old fart with a wrench
One thing you MUST do is fully charge your battery and make sure it's holding 12.5 volts before you start it for the first time on the new PCM. Anything less could corrupt the programming. Turn the key on to run and allow the warning lights to go thru their cycle before trying to crank it. Be sure the SKIM light is out before cranking it also. Believe it or not, this is to allow the computer to get familiar with it's family of modules. It has to run a basic self-diagnotic test of it's modules to make sure everything is functioning properly. The search for the SKIM module is the last test it runs.
The only good part about auto electronics is today, there are aftermarket systems that can be installed and programmed to mate any engine with any vehicle. You just have to have the cash and expertise to do this. This is the way a GM LS1 gets put into so many things. This year, Jeep decided to build the 6.3L Hemi Wrangler because so many aftermarket shops were already doing it. Personally, I think they are dangerous putting that much horsepower into a vehicle with such a short wheelbase and suspension height.
The best and most fun vehicle I've ever owned was a 67 SS 350 Camaro with the Duntov Corvette camshaft, Mincie 4-speed, 4.10 Positraction, and factory Rallye suspension which is only 1 inch higher than a Corvette. I had installed a ram air induction system, 4-leaf rear springset and oversized swaybars both front and rear, GR60/15 radial tires, and Z28 spoilers making it the best handling Camaro you probably would ever see. The only real handicap was 4 wheel drum brakes.
The only good part about auto electronics is today, there are aftermarket systems that can be installed and programmed to mate any engine with any vehicle. You just have to have the cash and expertise to do this. This is the way a GM LS1 gets put into so many things. This year, Jeep decided to build the 6.3L Hemi Wrangler because so many aftermarket shops were already doing it. Personally, I think they are dangerous putting that much horsepower into a vehicle with such a short wheelbase and suspension height.
The best and most fun vehicle I've ever owned was a 67 SS 350 Camaro with the Duntov Corvette camshaft, Mincie 4-speed, 4.10 Positraction, and factory Rallye suspension which is only 1 inch higher than a Corvette. I had installed a ram air induction system, 4-leaf rear springset and oversized swaybars both front and rear, GR60/15 radial tires, and Z28 spoilers making it the best handling Camaro you probably would ever see. The only real handicap was 4 wheel drum brakes.
Last edited by dave1123; 08-04-2021 at 10:26 AM.
08-04-2021, 11:27 AM
#48
Member
'Puters
X100 on the initial start up voltage. Follow the info above step for step. Entirely correct on all points (points again 😆
.
.
08-04-2021, 07:51 PM
#49
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yup, the battery has been on a trickle charger for almost a week now and is at full charge.
My funnest vehicle was my 65’ Impala 396ss white on white. It had a built small block in it when I got it and someone had installed side pipes on it. It was a total blast to rip around the little town I grew up in, Milan, Mi.
My funnest vehicle was my 65’ Impala 396ss white on white. It had a built small block in it when I got it and someone had installed side pipes on it. It was a total blast to rip around the little town I grew up in, Milan, Mi.
08-05-2021, 05:07 AM
#50
Member
Milan
Now the dragstrip is gone, unlikely to operate again. Milan had the "real" hotrods. Lapeer is back, awesome track surface, but a weird vibe now. Ahhh, the old days.
The following users liked this post:
Biggerhammer (08-05-2021)
08-05-2021, 06:37 AM
#51
Old fart with a wrench
My first dragstrip was a US Navy Auxiliary Landing Field lent to the New England Timing Association to use on Sundays and only supplied with an ambulance. We started with flags and elapsed time was with a stopwatch by radio to the timing crew. This was in 1959 and I wasn't old enough to drive, but I twisted wrenches for my uncle. This was the same uncle who gave me my first ride in a jeep and let me crew his sailboat. Yes, good memories and fun times.
I stopped drag racing when they started the "brackets." Then I got involved with road racing with the SCCA. TSD Rallyes and pylon racing.
Disconnect the charger, wait 30 minutes, then test with a voltmeter. Out on the bench or at least disconnected by both cables. Make sure it's holding at least 12.5v.
I stopped drag racing when they started the "brackets." Then I got involved with road racing with the SCCA. TSD Rallyes and pylon racing.
Disconnect the charger, wait 30 minutes, then test with a voltmeter. Out on the bench or at least disconnected by both cables. Make sure it's holding at least 12.5v.
Last edited by dave1123; 08-05-2021 at 06:47 AM.
08-05-2021, 07:11 PM
#52
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Battery is holding a solid 12.5. I installed everything and removed my old skim and put it in the house before even trying anything. Once the “new” ecm/skim/key was installed. I zip tied the key near the ignition switch with the chip as close to the skim as possible.
I inserted my key into the ignition and cycled it to run and let all the lights do there thing but, the skim/key light would not stop flashing…
I repeated this twice with the same result! I even removed the zip tied key and held it next to my key while trying the key cycle thing.
ugh, I’m really starting to hate this thing!!!
I inserted my key into the ignition and cycled it to run and let all the lights do there thing but, the skim/key light would not stop flashing…
I repeated this twice with the same result! I even removed the zip tied key and held it next to my key while trying the key cycle thing.
ugh, I’m really starting to hate this thing!!!
08-06-2021, 03:22 AM
#53
Old fart with a wrench
You have to use the keys you got with the new SKIM. The chip must be as close to the center of the ring antenna of the SKIM as possible.
The way this works is the SKIM module can remember up to 10 codes, but it has to have a key with a recognized code inserted when it interrogates it. A new SKIM comes with 2 keys that have secret codes in them as well as normal activation codes. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program up to 8 additional keys, like if this will be a business vehicle or you have a large family. You must have the 2 original keys to be able to program additional keys however. This system works like an aircraft transponder. The Module sends out a signal that quizes the key. The key responds and transmits a coded message back to the module. If the returned signal code matches one that is stored in the module, you can drive the car. If not, it will start but shut off right away.
It sounds like you're still using the original lock tumblers, right? In that case, you'll have to get those original keys programmed by a dealer with a DRB scan tool and Jeep procedural manual or install the tumbler that came with the keyset.
The way this works is the SKIM module can remember up to 10 codes, but it has to have a key with a recognized code inserted when it interrogates it. A new SKIM comes with 2 keys that have secret codes in them as well as normal activation codes. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program up to 8 additional keys, like if this will be a business vehicle or you have a large family. You must have the 2 original keys to be able to program additional keys however. This system works like an aircraft transponder. The Module sends out a signal that quizes the key. The key responds and transmits a coded message back to the module. If the returned signal code matches one that is stored in the module, you can drive the car. If not, it will start but shut off right away.
It sounds like you're still using the original lock tumblers, right? In that case, you'll have to get those original keys programmed by a dealer with a DRB scan tool and Jeep procedural manual or install the tumbler that came with the keyset.
Last edited by dave1123; 08-06-2021 at 03:30 AM.
08-06-2021, 12:02 PM
#54
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You have to use the keys you got with the new SKIM. The chip must be as close to the center of the ring antenna of the SKIM as possible.
The way this works is the SKIM module can remember up to 10 codes, but it has to have a key with a recognized code inserted when it interrogates it. A new SKIM comes with 2 keys that have secret codes in them as well as normal activation codes. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program up to 8 additional keys, like if this will be a business vehicle or you have a large family. You must have the 2 original keys to be able to program additional keys however. This system works like an aircraft transponder. The Module sends out a signal that quizes the key. The key responds and transmits a coded message back to the module. If the returned signal code matches one that is stored in the module, you can drive the car. If not, it will start but shut off right away.
It sounds like you're still using the original lock tumblers, right? In that case, you'll have to get those original keys programmed by a dealer with a DRB scan tool and Jeep procedural manual or install the tumbler that came with the keyset.
The way this works is the SKIM module can remember up to 10 codes, but it has to have a key with a recognized code inserted when it interrogates it. A new SKIM comes with 2 keys that have secret codes in them as well as normal activation codes. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program up to 8 additional keys, like if this will be a business vehicle or you have a large family. You must have the 2 original keys to be able to program additional keys however. This system works like an aircraft transponder. The Module sends out a signal that quizes the key. The key responds and transmits a coded message back to the module. If the returned signal code matches one that is stored in the module, you can drive the car. If not, it will start but shut off right away.
It sounds like you're still using the original lock tumblers, right? In that case, you'll have to get those original keys programmed by a dealer with a DRB scan tool and Jeep procedural manual or install the tumbler that came with the keyset.
I have the key that goes to the new skim and I had it zip tied to the ignition cylinder. That didn’t work so I cut the zip tie and held it to my key that went to my ignition and still no good.
Im going out there in a few minutes and try again to see what I can find out.
08-06-2021, 08:34 PM
#55
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I heard from a childhood friend that the Milan Dragway has been bought! Upgrades to begin shortly! Gives me an excuse to make a trip back home.
09-15-2021, 04:33 PM
#56
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Small update…
I purchased another ecm/skim/key from someone parting out another 04’ Limited like mine (only with a blown engine). Waited for it to arrive, which took forever, not really. It arrive in less than a week even though the guy was three and a half hours away from me.
I removed all of my stuff (ecm/skim) and installed all of the “new” to me stuff and held the keys together while trying to start it. I got the circled key of death… Great! Try and get the guy to send me the other key he had, just in case it was wrong… Oh no, he needs the key…
ok, fine! I look up All computer resources out of Florida to see if I can just get the “skim” delete done. NOPE! The vin has to match the vehicle but, of course they will sell me a new ecm and only charge another $50 to do the skim delete…
Im at a total loss here. From everything that I’ve read and been told, I could have been able to swap everything from one vehicle to another and I would be good to go. A.C.R tells me that they can’t reprogram the new to me ecm to my VIN…
Im about to part this thing out and scrap what’s left!
I purchased another ecm/skim/key from someone parting out another 04’ Limited like mine (only with a blown engine). Waited for it to arrive, which took forever, not really. It arrive in less than a week even though the guy was three and a half hours away from me.
I removed all of my stuff (ecm/skim) and installed all of the “new” to me stuff and held the keys together while trying to start it. I got the circled key of death… Great! Try and get the guy to send me the other key he had, just in case it was wrong… Oh no, he needs the key…
ok, fine! I look up All computer resources out of Florida to see if I can just get the “skim” delete done. NOPE! The vin has to match the vehicle but, of course they will sell me a new ecm and only charge another $50 to do the skim delete…
Im at a total loss here. From everything that I’ve read and been told, I could have been able to swap everything from one vehicle to another and I would be good to go. A.C.R tells me that they can’t reprogram the new to me ecm to my VIN…
Im about to part this thing out and scrap what’s left!
09-24-2021, 01:10 PM
#57
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I ended up getting a new ecm and installed it. Checked the battery voltage before I hooked it up. It was at 12.8 volts. Hooked everything up and hit the key… it started up and went to high idle, then settled down to about 600 rpms. Then it started the same crap as before. It just stalled out…
11-07-2021, 01:09 PM
#58
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Quick question…
The previous owner installed another set of heads on this thing. My question is, what is the difference in the HO cam tone ring and the regular “non” HO tone ring? I know about the crankshaft reluctor ring being different ( 16 tooth as opposed to the 32 tooth ).
The previous owner installed another set of heads on this thing. My question is, what is the difference in the HO cam tone ring and the regular “non” HO tone ring? I know about the crankshaft reluctor ring being different ( 16 tooth as opposed to the 32 tooth ).
11-14-2021, 12:02 PM
#59
Newbie
Big Hammer, I feel your pain over that ECM/SKIM procedure that is so easy to get wrong. I've got no pointers to offer here but had to chime in that the SKIM issue in a Jeep WJ can test the patience of even the most methodical trouble-shooter. I had a '99 WJ that got hit by a massive lightning bolt while parked at night, and thus began a prolonged and ultimately fruitless series of attempts to get the vehicle running again. Bought a refurbished ECM with SKIM code deleted, along with a plain metal key and tumbler that should have solved the problem, and when that failed, went back to purchasing a used and supposedly working ECM, SKIM, and key combination, which also failed. Also, I replaced the in-tank fuel pump assembly, the Throttle Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, the IAC valve, and several oxygen sensors, all to no avail, before I finally threw in the towel.
Long story short, I traded that 99 WJ and some cash for a 2004 WJ Overland that thus far has run smoothly as a Swiss watch, knock on wood. For all the trouble that 99 WJ gave me, I ought to have gone for a Toyota, but truth be told, the Jeep WJ body style is one that I happen to find easier on the eyes than all other SUVs and Grand Cherokees including the 2021 model, so I intend to keep this '04 Overland WJ for as long as I can keep it running.
Long story short, I traded that 99 WJ and some cash for a 2004 WJ Overland that thus far has run smoothly as a Swiss watch, knock on wood. For all the trouble that 99 WJ gave me, I ought to have gone for a Toyota, but truth be told, the Jeep WJ body style is one that I happen to find easier on the eyes than all other SUVs and Grand Cherokees including the 2021 model, so I intend to keep this '04 Overland WJ for as long as I can keep it running.
11-14-2021, 12:54 PM
#60
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I haven’t touched it since September. Now I have to have my gallbladder removed this week and don’t foresee me working on it anytime soon. I’m just about to the point of gutting it and dropping an entirely different drivetrain in it. That won’t happen until it gets much warmer. Since my stroke last year, I don’t function very well at anything under 50*.