dave1123

I'd believe $5000 maybe. I got $450 for scrap metal weight for an old Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. About the tipping, maybe the Wranglers, but I brutalized my WJ in a flat spin on dry pavement and it never got close to a rollover attitude. That was trying to avoid a kid running out from between two parked cars. He actually pissed his pants! I think I almost did. I was going about 35 at the time.

munyanb

So back to the parts swap, I put the brake booster in the 97 from the 99, did it twice since I didn't see a spacer that was needed to make it work properly, it was on the 97 and not the 99, I just didn't see it till I already installed the one and it pushed the brake pedal back to far. The exhaust manifolds do fit and bolt up the same, but the O2 sensor is in a different spot, it's funny because the wiring harness looks the same, but on the 99 the plug that goes to the AC compressor clutch is in exactly the same spot as the o2 sensor on the 97. So I have to swap o2 sensors and hopefully it's long enough to be able reroute to reach the plug without laying on the exhaust , hopefully I don't have to solder the small wires to extend them, but I do have a soldering iron and heat shrink. It looks very close as far as piping is concerned, hopefully I don't need to cut anything or add adapters. The hangers are placed different but I can figure something out on them as well. Next I have to see about the many plugs on the intake that may or may not match up, right away the throttle position sensor or motor on the throttle body is different. if it plugs in I will try it and hopefully not fry my computer if it does plug in.

munyanb

I had asked about brakes before, if they interchanged, and someone wrote an explanation about how the brakes bolt on, and what not, but it was unclear on whether or not they would interchange. If not I really don't think I need them anyway, the 97 always did what it was supposed to with braking. They are antilock brakes and stopped me as good as I ever needed them to. It's not a race car anyway. the 97 already has 16" wheels on it from a later model jeep if they do happen to work. The only reason I would change them is if the master cylinder is proportioned all wrong to work with the 97's brakes. Oh I just remembered I still have to get the 97 unstuck out of 4x4, lol. hopefully I don't have to drop the transfer case for that, and there is a plate to remove to get to the problem. it can't be a major problem , but I'm sure even if it is a plastic bushing it will be hard to find, and around here tranny shops or shops in general do not like to help people even by selling them parts for do it yourselfers. Now does anyone know about the fuel pump? is it the proper pressure? And would a higher pressure not let my injectors work? I had to swap injectors over to the 99 intake btw, since the plug is not the same.

munyanb

i was taking my driving test in Germany when a kid did the same thing, the instructor about pissed his pants when he got slammed forwards , he didn't even see the kid lol. I remember the CJ's with the big engines could be tipped if someone drove stupid, like flooring it in a sharp turn, but i love the wranglers and CJ's , although the CJ5 would be the one that i would think would tip easier. Down south i think the scrap prices are lower, i know they try to get you , won't even give a short steel price. So i have a question about the cat, the exhaust i am putting on is carboned and gummed up from an engine misfiring and running wrong , will this cause the cat to clog, or will it clean out? is there any feasible thing i can do to prevent this?

munyanb

Hey I haven't had much time , ive been really busy, I do have an update on parts swapping. Of course the intake worked fine, but I ran into problems with the exhaust. The cat worked fine, the pipe between the manifolds worked fine, the manifold bolted up , I couldn't see very well, had to much oil, all over the place, but when I started it it was loud, I thought I didn't have the down pipe tight, but it was much worse, while running I looked under it and all along the bottom there is a 1/4" gap in the exhaust ports, meaning the exhaust manifold sits to high. Damn it, I even tried matching it up to the gasket and it seemed to work, but when it sits on the studs I guess it has a different bracket, that's a lot of work, to redo. But now everyone knows it will not work without some welding, I can't figure out anything I could have done wrong with bolting it up, then again I could have somehow raised it to high, the 99 cat does sit on the cross member underneath. Well I have to either have to grind the little **** off of the pipe and spin the cat to make it sit higher or something, or it needs something on its mounting bracket cut and re welded, I'm not sure , does anyone know? Should I ask the self proclaimed exhaust expert? I really don't want to do much more work and can't do to much without a welder and tooling , but I would really like to keep the exhaust manifold on there since the dual down pipes and pipe between them and the cat are bigger.

munyanb

Oh btw, I had to cut the wires from the old down pipe o2 sensor, and cut the wires on the new down pipe o2 sensor and use butt connectors, and sealed them with the black permatex , and then run the wiring up along the fuel line to keep it away from the exhaust pipe, it worked just fine, and the fuel line needs to be secured better, it runs a little close to the exhaust for my liking. Everything else worked out pretty good, the valve cover leak is fixed, I almost was able to use the 99 throttle body, had one single plug that would not plug in so I just switched throttle bodies, I had to swap places with a vacuum hose inlet with the sensor that is in the intake, believe it or not with the exhaust having the gaping hole it doesn't throw flames out, only once when I first started it and it ran rough did it throw a flame out in the front cylinder exhaust port. It really isn't loud as I would think for the ports being open air like that, maybe I am not seeing something right? Maybe I should have switched gaskets as well with the 99? I still have the gasket from the 99, it is very thin metal though, not a thick gasket like the one that was and still is on the 97. So does anyone have a 98 or older head and a 99 or newer head that can be compared? How could I search a side by side comparison?

dave1123

IDK for sure but I've been told there is an adapter/spacer to make the manifold fit the older head. I was told the spacing of the ports were different, but apparently it's the angle that's different.

My advice on the carbon is to Sea Foam it really good. Supposedly it breaks up the carbon fine enough to blow out. Again, I've been told to pour it down the TB liberally enough to stall the engine, then let it sit for several hours, then start it up and rev it up. I haven't tried this, so take this with a grain of salt.

munyanb

I found a site with poor mans lift kit info, it is lunghd.com , maybe they have info on poor mans exhaust upgrades?

munyanb

Well I crawled under it , looked again, unbelievable, the exhaust ports are exposed all the way from front to back at the bottom, that means the 99 + exhaust ports sit higher in the head than then 98 and older, or just the studs that hold the outer ears on are lower in the newer head, and probably the rest of the holes for the bolts. Or the exhaust ports are smaller on the 99 +. I can't hardly imagine that since it is supposed to be a better flowing head, but regardless it is not lining up. It's odd that the intake works but not the exhaust, does not make much sense to me. So now I get to undo all of the work and go back to the 97 exhaust manifold, hopefully I can find a way to get this done without removing the intake but I doubt it. Then I guess I can go to an exhaust shop and have them make a downpipe to fit the manifold to the exhaust pipe. I sure would like to keep the dual down pipes though, this sure is annoying.

dave1123

If you want to spend money, they do make a split header for the ZJ. With a y-pipe into one. There is even one with all 6 tubes the same length, but now you're talking big bucks.

munyanb

You know what? I have a jeep and call myself a true American, and jeep people do not give up so easily, I looked once again and noticed that only the ears on the outside edge are holding the manifold to high, I am going to take my cut off wheel , turn the holes into slots and painstakingly adjust this, I refuse to give up, I almost did, but there is a difference from someone that can just bolt some stuff together and someone that can make things happen, the whole spirit of owning a jeep is getting places that others can't. So to start with I am taking a straight edge and getting some comparisons and measurements in relation to the top of the intake manifold flanges, then I'm sure I will be able to tell how much I need to lower it, and I have felt all along the rest of the retainer bolts, they all have plenty of flange to slide it down and still be held tight. I am making this happen one way or another. I will let you know when it is either scrap metal or it works. I am confident that it will work.

dave1123

Now you're talking! This is the stuff we used to do before there was speed equipment you could buy off the shelf! I myself built a manifold to mount a 4 bbl carb on a Plymouth slant 6! I watched guys build headers out of mandrel bent tube sections. This is the time I grew up in. I had my first car in 1957. I didn't get my license until 1961. I had a lot of fun, made a few mistakes, blew some stuff up.

munyanb

Ok well I got it all off again, and found a big problem, the openings on the manifold are simply smaller on the newer one, they just are not big enough. Unbelievable that jeep did something like this. A better intake, better cam, better porting (besides the cracking heads part) and then a smaller more restrictive exhaust manifold going into a bigger pipe. Well I have a plan but not the tooling, I will use the original manifold , cut the collector off, put a bigger one on, and I guess cut the two downpipes off and have a pipe bent and flared to fit the two. The original manifold looks like most of the aftermarket headers do already, but I'm sure that collector stifles flow, but then again maybe it is enough, I could just leave it and have a pipe made to fit the other after I cut off the two downpipes, or run one out the hood and put a turbo in in it on the way , lol. This is just ridiculous, lol. I have to wonder if the pipe I took off and trashed was a cheap fix anyway it was smaller and the welds were crude. What about flex pipe and cutting the two downpipes off right after the collector where they go into one? that sure is close to the o2 sensor though, and flex pipe is just problems.

dave1123

AND flex pipe is illegal in most states.

The cracking problem with the 0331 head is because they made the ports larger for better flow, making the walls of the head too thin in places causing the cracks. In 2002 they recast them with different alloys solving this problem, WHICH THEY NEVER ACKNOWLEDGED IN THE FIRST PLACE!! These new heads are stamped "TUPY".

NOW SEE, you made me go out and crawl under my jeep! My 4.0 was delivered to NY, but has CA emissions. It has cast iron exhaust manifolds(2) and 2 02 sensors and 2 small cats that dump into a y-pipe. The manifolds are a lot larger than the old steel one and the flanges where they bolt to the head are about 1/2" thick. The y-pipe is 2.5" into the muffler and doesn't have a downstream 02 sensor. This is why I got confused about your setup.

munyanb

I think in Tennessee it is legal still. But yeah I was already told about the larger ports in the heads, from someone on here , maybe you even. Ironically the exhaust manifold has actually smaller openings to the head and square instead of round. It's pretty weird, I think they are to small to cover the exhaust ports, no adjustment can be made, I see the bungs in place for either the o2 sensors or egr tubes, I have no choice but to use the original exhaust manifold and cut off the two down pipes and try to make sure I have room to clamp a pipe on before the o2 sensor. On this one the o2 sensor is pretty close to where the two downpipes merge into one, so it may be impossible, but in that case i'll have to move it somewhere else.