jmonts

Not sure if somebody already answered your question about where the ground straps need to be.
You will need to remove the intake box on top of your motor. There are two bolts holding it down on either side(10mm I think), and one clamp in the center, then unscrew the intake tube and remove.
If you look right under the dipstick tube you will see a coil pack(the last one on the passenger side). Take that nut off(10mm) and loop the shorter ground strap connector on it and replace the nut(I think the torque speck is 7 in/lbs.).
Now route the longer strap around the back of the intake manifold and remove the nut for the last coil pack on the driver side. Loop ground strap and replace nut.
Enjoy.

PeterB

JMonts you're awesome Brotha. That's fantastic. I wasn't sure where they went and was about to give up. Even though FBoner gave me some good hints, I wasn't sure exactly, someone mentioned behind the cylinder heads??

Someone told me I'd have to take the entire engine apart ??

To say your're post was welcomed is putting it mildly. Thank you, you're the best.

PeterB.

PS Fishbones I only wish I had his money brotha. Thank you for the compliment bud. You the mannnnnnnnn

fishbone

Peter - JMonts post is right on the money. Not only did he give you the exact location for those grounds, he also gave you bolt sizes and torque specs so, git er done! No more excuses......bolt up those ground wires. I hope you got some helpful advice that will save you some buckeroos.

PS: Money isn't everything Peter but you know what they say: Life is like a poop (****) sandwich, the more bread you have, the less poop you have to eat. Travel to Vegas and consider becoming a Billy Crystal impersonator.

jmonts

Your welcome.
I just replaced my spark plugs and remember thinking I had lost one of those suckers behind the motor when I took them off to get the coil packs off. Thankfully they are tied together so it is hard to get them beyond reach.
Let us know if you have any more intermittent starting after you bolt down the ground straps.

PeterB

Yes, I will get on that ASAP and get them grounded out as they should be.

Surprisingly shes ran pretty good so far since the battery install other then the dam squirrels under my dash! Guys what about these strange noises under/below the radio/glove box? I could only describe them as vent wires pulling, vents closing & opening and closing periodically? Any ideas?

Last night I went to enjoy a performance Le Miserable at the Drewry Lane with a very attractive 38 yr young busty blonde. Fishbone she wore this low cut tight black dress to die for (kind of woman Billy Crystal's succe$$ would attract, wink) I sported a sport jacket and slacks. Couldn't take the Vet Vert (40*) so we opted for the Jeep. Wtf A nice evening at the theater & all evening we were subjected to these noises? After the initial single malt scotches at my place & while driving there I joked it was my stomach hunger but that went over with a beautiful smile initially after a while I had to turn the radio up a little more. Nice night, good time before and after the performance with an annoying nuisance with these lower vent noises??

I'm hoping it's related to those grounds but I believe it to be a long shot. The one gentleman suggested it may be vents re-calibrating but I cant believe the brilliant Chrysler engineers would make that type of horsechit design, it can't possibly be normal, can it?

JMonts you guys are pretty smart, what could it be and how can I fix it? $1000 bonus for you men. Of course in gratitude

Thank you Gentlemen, enjoy your weekend and GoooooooooooooooooooBlackHawksGooooooooooooooooooo o

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jmonts

Mine will sound like a door slamming every once in a while going uphill after it downshifts. I assume you have the Auto/Dual control system? Do you keep it on Auto? If so it could be adjusting itself to maintain the desired temp.

Oh, and I except paypal or Jeep parts

PeterB

Lol. Yes dual auto Brian. That's just it mo climate control is in the off position??

And to make matters even more bizarre, the AC light goes on by itself every now and then too!

Something's not right unless its suppose to do that but the vents shutting and wires pulling noises are very odd.

Brian I'm happy to send you a birdie if you could figure out what that's all about and how I could stop it

fishbone

Peter - Did you button up those ground wires in the engine compartment yet? Just curious to know if bolting up those ground wires solved your problems. With that said I didn't realize you had the infrared dual zone climate control system. Somehow that got by me on your original post. I should have realized that Billy Crystal would have nothing but the best in his automobiles!!! LOL Ok, with that said Peter answer me these questions: Do you have heat? Do you have AC? When in manual mode is the air coming out of the vents you have chosen? Next, do this: With the key in the run position with the engine off, turn the system on, turn fan to any speed other than auto and select any vent position other than auto. Next hold the a/c button and the button to the right of it which is the recirculation button at the same time while turning the drivers side temperature control to the right 1 click (so make sure its not in the full heat position before you start). Now you should see some codes flashing on the display. Make notes of those codes. So to recap: A/C button + recirc button + drivers side temp control turn to right one click all at the same time.

jmonts

I just tried it on mine and it displayed 52, but stayed on until I pushed the buttons again.

fishbone

Ok, that means 52 is the only open code you have. I believe that is a faulty mode door. That is the door that determines whether to use outside air or not. I am only going off memory here, give a little time and I'll try to get all the codes.

fishbone

Here ya go Jmonts hope it helps:

AZC fault codes Input faults 01 = IR thermister circuit open
02 = IR thermister circuit shorted
03 = Fan pot shorted
04 = Fan pot open
05 = Mode pot shorted
06 = Mode pot open
07 = IR sensor delta too large
08 = Reserved
09 = Reserved
10 = One of four motor drivers has drive "A" shorted to ground
11 = Engine air intake temperature bus message missing
12 = Country code bus message missing System faults 13 = Mode motor not responding
14 = AI (Recirc) motor not responding
15 = Left temperature door not responding
16 = Right temperature door not responding
17 = Mode door travel range too small
18 = Mode door travel range too large
19 = AI (Recirc) door travel too small
20 = AI (Recirc) door travel too large
21 = Left temperature door travel too small
22 = Left temperature door travel too large
23 = Right temperature door travel too small
24 = Right temperature door travel too large
25 = Calibration check sum error
26 = Engine coolant temp bus message missing
27 = Vehicle speed bus message missing
28 = Engine RPM bus message missing
29 = OAT bus message missing
30 = Display intensity bus message missing
31 = VIN number bus message missing
32 = Raw OAT buss message missing
Input faults 33 = IR thermister circuit was open
34 = IR thermister circuit was shorted
35 = Fan pot was shorted
36 = Fan pot was open
37 = Mode pot was shorted
38 = Mode pot was open
39 = IR sensor delta was too large
40 = Reserved
41 = Reserved
42 = One of four motor drivers had drive 9A9 shorted to ground
43 = Engine air intake temperature bus message missing
44 = Country code buss message missing
System faults 45 = Mode motor was not responding
46 = AI (Recirc) motor was not responding
47 = Left temperature door was not responding
48 = Right temperature door was not responding
49 = Mode door travel range too small
50 = Mode door travel range too large
51 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too small
52 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too large
53 = Left temperature door travel too small
54 = Left temperature door travel too large
55 = Right temperature door travel too small
56 = Right temperature door travel too large
57 = Calibration check sum error
58 = Engine coolant temp bus message missing
59 = Vehicle speed bus message missing
60 = Engine RPM bus message missing
61 = OAT bus message missing
62 = Display intensity bus message missing
63 = VIN number bus message missing
64 = Raw OAT bus message was missing
65 = Reserved
66 = Reserved
67 = Reserved

PeterB

Wonderful. I get a 53, 52, 55 now what ? I see the codes but that an a dollar will be me a donut ?

WhatUp FishBone/ How was your bay bud? Fill me in brotha what's next now that I know my numbers. Should I play the pick three tomorrow

Not yet mo. Unlike your man BillyC. I don't have a personal assistant, butler and mechanic. Would be nice though Lol

But now that Nicholas PeterB is with his mom for the next few days... If the weather is decent I'll roll up my sleeves and bolt those ground straps on in the driveway over the next day or so. But no not yet Bud.

I'm just kicking back now. At least she's been running decent over the last few days. Knock on wood. no problemas so far. Other then the squirrels that is. Thanks for all your help, I owe you brotha.

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jmonts

These codes usually mean you need to repair/replace the blend doors, or the actuator motors plastic piece, that slides over the blend door and adjusts it's position, is broken.

Somebody else might chime in on if that is, in fact, correct.

PeterB

Jmonts don't tell me you have to take the entire dash apart right?? GeeseLouise.


I took my acid reflux tablet and drove to pick up my little friend...

She took my mind right off my pet squirrel problem.

Say hello to my juice tasteeeee little friend...
($17 small, two meals)









I'm not sure if you guys have ever been to Chicago, come on down and be my guest FishBone/Jmonts.
As far as deep dish pizza, its hard to find anything that comes even close to Lous. Fuggedabouit!



Now back to trying to rid these ridiculous cabin noises. Anybody else have any tips please?

Thank you, its appreciated gentlemen. Enjoy your evening. Good night

PeterB.

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fishbone

Peter - Here's the down and dirty bro. At a dealer, this job will cost you $900 - $1200, at private mechanic probably up to $900. This is without a doubt the source of all your noise problems in the dash at the glove box. Guiding you through the steps for repairing these items is a little beyond the scope of this forum. The proper way to do this job is to remove the dash. However, there is a way to access these items through the glove box but........it involves cutting into your air (HVAC) box. I am not advocating either technique, you take apart your own dash at your own risk or cut into the air box at your own risk. I am going to post some links for you at the end of this post that will get you the information you need to do the job and get the parts you need. YouTube has a lot of vids on how to do this job, you can also google search for more information if you need it. Either technique is not really that difficult obviously taking apart the dash adds layers of complexity and is very time consuming so, as a big boy you will have to make a decision on your own as to how to proceed. Just to give you an idea about taking apart the dash, I just did a heater core on Ford pick up and it took me the better part of 2, mostly uninterrupted, 8 hour days and I have some experience. If I were you Peter and I also have an 02 GC with 138K on it, I would be cutting into the air box to make these repairs, that is only me and I am not telling you what to do.

http://heatertreater.net/






Ps: Peter I know you can do it. You may have to stop groping 30 something, busty women for a few days but you can do it. Good luck. Let us know how it comes out.