lakesideguy

The car started! My bucket list was to take a junked car and fix it up,
I paid 800 at a junkyard. The poor thing was a mess.

But , the only issue is the motor went from alot of loud clacking to now a very loud tick that goes away when warm. But after thus little engine project its vastly improved running like a new motor except for the dang loud tick that goes away when warmed.

It started with a total rattling mess coming from the valve train the front of the motor and metal scraping. It was really sad.

So the result.
Totally quiet completely responsive like new on the motor except for that dank loud tick. lol But it's way better than before it sounded like it was going to go nuclear before.

So here's what I did on project jeep. Yes Im proud of myself. Ive never worked on a car before. And chose this poor 800 dollar jeep that was a total mess.

So here is what you see in the picture that I did that I found were problem and boy I'm happy with the way it runs now! For sure. Whatever the loud tick I hope its not that dang piston skirt issue. But it does go away and good lord had the motor quiet down. I found in the timing chain cover the destruction of the guide and a really droopy chain.

I replaced and or fixed or rebuilt:
AC compressor (resealed it and dumped oil (yeah whatever there was only a few drops but it did run and ran like crap no good air and tons of leaks). So I pulled the fittings all off cleaned them all up. Reoiled new orings and gasket seal. Threw the PAG46 in . Same with all of its hoses. All new orings all in the engine bay. Nice vaccum hold now should work well and its the original compressor.

Power steering had leaks at hose connections. Replaced hoses and flushed the system out using Seafoam Transmisson flush. Beautifully works and is now quiet not noisy anymore.

Harmonic balancer was beginning to seperate. New one now fixed that.
Timing kit with sprockets and gears. New water pump (the source of the metallic noise at idle).

Valve cover gasket, spark plugs (those were shot entirely), valve cover rebuild practically putting in new grommets (leaking geez all over the engine was just leaks and every gasket blown), And, finally, got new bolts to seal up the air cleaner that was just laying in it and bolted down the air system enirely to intake manifold that was just thrown in the engine bay.

Did I say leaks. The picture you see is not what this engine looked like when I got it. It was coated with oil EVERYWHERE. You couldn't make out anything so I was a mess all throughout this two week cleanup job.
The throttle body was a mess, the throttle position senosor was causing idling issues, the transmission speed sensor was causing erratic shifting. And underneath the carriage the pan was so bad and gasket it threw trans oil literally all over. I had to jack it pressure what it to DEATH and then get a new pan with drain plug and put a new gasket, filter and flushed the crap out of it. Adjusted the shift linkage as it wouldn't even shift into 4X4.

back to motor, new radiator, blew out condensor with pressure washer, thermostat, pipes, water pump, fan cluthc as I have tow package, fan relat and fuse, hoses that were severly deteriorrated, and front main seal, new serpentine belt, new oil pressure sensor, new power steering pressure line, Fixed vaccum leaks, got rid of air bag light (replaced clock spring in steering wheel).

Steering stabilizer, total overhail on front end brakes. I still have death wobbvle when brake over 40 but I suspect the play in steering problem I have on the left side. The wobble occurs on that side as well I feel it.
That's still outstanding but doubt its the new braking system put in.
Greased chassis. New brake light and circuit boards.

The car now runs and runs damn good.
So here is the pic after I finished the engine of what it needed.
Any thoughts on the tick? I did tighten the rockers down and seafoamed like crazy and got all up in there. Overall the noise had gone drastically down except now but one remaining noise. the loud tick that goes away when warm.

So, without further do here is the pick of the bay and engine of a 99 Jeep Grand cherokee Laredo. It almost looks off the line but yeah Im proud of this hard work . This cant be beat for 800 bucks and parts costing me 800 so far that I all mentioned above. And its my bucket list and this jeep is it.
It stared at me and set please resurrect me from this junkyard. So like a rabid dog I nursed it to health. Damn tick and wobble though is pissing me off.

So after all this I turned the key. No shoddy idle, incredible responsiveness from throttle, deal silence from front end, it doesn't overheat, but the dang loud tick when cold, at least it wasnt like it was (3 rockers were loose after tightening 1 remained still loose im thinking maybe the lifter is crap?). Anywy I just hope this is not the stupid piston skirt . Then Id feel this was al for not.

Anyway, for what its worth please add comments on this of death wobble over 40 mph breaking after total break overhauil. I can confirm play int he left side in steering at high speed for sure and that where the wobble will occur. And of course the noise went from alot of clacking like the engine was ready for nuclear fallout to at least this loud tick so im happy if its rocker or whatever who cares it goes away.

Thanks. The project has been a blast. Even the AC was shot blowing semi cold air with vent going to defrost. Cruise control actuator replaced to fixeed that up. Not bad for 800 bucks for the car and 800 in parts. But it was hard work for MANY months.

And the bay and motor are not looking like almost a 20 year old car anymore for sure.
I'm sure you'll agree alot of work went into getting this thing to run like new again.

Sorry for mispelling in title subject. I'm drinking wine right now celebrating the drive around the block and practically new car.
Again, except for the loud ticking that goes away when warm. But its better than the way the car was prior. Throttle all over the place at idle, erratic shifts, no power at all, the car was about to go nuclear. now it runs almost brand new except again the wobble and tick. Once I find that the car is golden for another 120k miles.

buddy robinson

Lifters?

dave1123

Most likely. In order to replace them, the head has to come off. As long as it goes away, I wouldn't go so far as to replace them, yet. Remember, this has the 0331 head.

lakesideguy

The only thing I did was tighten the rocker bridges as three were loose.
Then I seafoamed using the tiny straw and got into all the locations I could. I rotated the crank giving me easier access to work the seafoam in. Tightened them up to 22 ft lbs. All problems eliminated as there were sticky lifter tapping. It turned out not to be piston slap or the broken piston skirt. The car sounded like a diesel engine slapping, clacking and ticking and now it sounds like this (youtube included). But I had to rotate the crank to get up in the rockers real good. Some used spring compressors to do the same thing when seaforaming. But the stuff does work if there are things sticking. But, pouring into the valve cover won't cut it. You'll have to pull the cover and rotate the crank and work the stuff in. But yes for my engine it worked fine and cleaned up the noise. Sticky everything from the way it sounded. And it was real bad. I'm really shocked t his worked as I didnt' expect too work that well but yet it did. However, when I was in the timing chain cover the chain was drooping badly and the guide in it was broken apart. So, the noises coming from the motor were more than likely characteristic of MANY failing parts. Including , the water pump as well. It was just not driveable. It ran but like junk and landed in the junk yard. I got lucky it wasn't more than this. The engine sounds fantastic you'll agree it is far from a junked engine. SO for 800 dollars from a junkyard I managed to grab a good engine and tranny. It's running now and it runs like new. I'd trust it on a road trip , except, I'm dealing with having to put a new rear axle in. That's next. I posted a different thread on it as I need help with it. I could only get a dana 44 from a v8 that was an 04 to put into this car The gear ratio matches though. But, any help with that in the other thread is appreciated.


The AC compressor on the 99 jeep grand cherokee WJ is located under the power steering pump pully and mine has towing package so it has mechanical fan and electric. So, replacing front pulley or doing a rebuild at this point isn't going to happen easily. I wish I had now done that when I spinned it I knew it needed it. Now, it's better to just replace it at this point. But should be fine for a while longer.

Here's the youtube.....
There is only one noise left that you can barely hear.
One is the AC compressor pulley bearing (low pitched metallic scrape) you really got listen for it. But there are no leaks, I resealed it and put new orings all throughout, and Ill put up with it until I have to replace the compressor. Had I paid more attention I would have rebuilt that. But now that its back together there is no way I'm pulling it all apart again to deal with the AC compressor pulley bearing. Ill just replace the whole thing. The location would be impossible to use a puller without the radiator coming off again just to do that. So for now I'll put up with it and its not that loud anyway.

dave1123

This vehicle was probably junked rather than fixed because the owner didn't maintain it at all. He probably now tells his friends what junk Jeeps are! He probably has enough money to just buy a new car every time instead of paying for maintenance.

You've done a great job and you should be proud. My 2000 WJ has had loving care for it's entire life and never been abused. It has 195K miles on it now, and I'd drive it anywhere, long distance or not.

One thing I'm going to warn you about. The 99-01 4.0s have the 0331 head on them that has cracking problems. Not all of them crack, but a lot of them have. They seem to crack most often between the #3 and #4 exhaust valves in the rocker area. Symptoms are a sudden thirst for coolant, steam from the exhaust or dripping tailpipe, and coolant in the oil. Mine cracked at about 150K miles, which is later than most, but luckily not into the rocker area so I didn't get oil delusion. It started using 2 quarts of coolant per week and steaming out the tailpipe. I bought an Odessa head complete with valves for $455. That's the most expensive repair I've had to do.

lakesideguy

I can assure it wasn't maintenanced at all. It has 119k and driven to oblivion in my assesment after cleaning this mess up.
It just about every light on the dash known to mankind.
It has ZERO lights as of today and you heard what it sounds like now.

Replaced:
Battery
Throttle Position Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensors
Oil Pressure Sensor
Temperature Sensor
Transmission Speed Sensor
Oil Pan (leaked madly)
Oil Pan Filter/Gasket
Water Pump
Idler Pulley
Harmonic Ballancer
Timing chain, sprockets, guide,
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Oil pan Gasket
Resealed AC lines with new orings and AC compressor oil gasket
CCV elbows and gromets / hoses
Throttle bottle toothbrush cleaning
Radiator / Transmission cooler lines (leaking)
Condensor
Fan Clutch
Electric Fan Fuse
Thermostat
Valve Cover Gasket
Power steering high pressure hose line
Spark Plugs
Brake Pads / Callipars and Brackets / Rotors
Front Steering Stabilizer
Shocks
Tires
Serpentine Belt
Front and Lower Radiator Hoses
Clock spring in steering wheel (air bag light)
Rear tail lights (blinkers failing)
Front head lights (moisture issues)
All bulbs replaced (taillights LED now)
New radio with 7" touch screen
Windshield wiper blades front and back

Fluid flushed and changed:
Front and rear diffrentials
Crankcase
Transmission
Coolant
Power Steering
Oil (lol)
Rocker bridges
Seafoamed the crap out of valve train thoroughly while rotating crank
Greased chassis (so bad that the nipples were coated and covered and the thing squeaked when turning the wheel real bad)
Vacuumed AC lines and recharged freon and put in UV dye for future diagnosing (seems to be working real well again - cant find vacuum leak though that causes a quick switch to defrost but seems to happen going uphill mostly is that normal?)

Adjusted,
Transmission linkage for shifter
Rocker brdiges
Cleaned ABS rings that were coated in dirt severly

OBDII codes after turning key 3 times :
NOW ZERO - NONE

Needed:

1) Rear end swap to Dana 44a (the old Dana 33 is leaking at seals and scraping noise).
I have the rear end now but I'm exhausted from this other stuff. I'm breaking until I start this one.

2) Crank case gasket (slight leaking going on will perform at same time rear end swap occurs?)
Wiht rear end swap I have ready to put in (shocks, rear brakes ready to go when the swap happens)
1 back left brake line its the long one third down (last one and rusted badly looking for part number or location to find it)
Shield for fuel tank (rusted badly)

3) Front right and left CV boots? (yep the rubber is split open). May purchase front right and left axles instead with them on it already that will have new bearings???

4) AC Compressor (noisy metallic sounding bearing in pulley still slightly noticeable at idle but tolerated)

5) Front Right Tweeter

6) Left door control power windows and door lock new switches needed

7) Brake line for one of the rear brakes (the third one on bottom if you look facing up while under car is severly rusted it goes all the way down the body)

9) rear window lift gate pressurized shock window wont stay open just shuts

10) A spare tire - it's missing

11) Fuel tank metal protector that goes all around it - rusted away

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And this is the first car IVE EVER WORKED ON but a 4x4 of this callibre to
me is well worth the effort. It appears to be sound and I found no contamited fluilds such as radiator fluid in oil or vice versa.
It was my bucket list to restore a needy car that deserved attention.
And its beginning to run like a new jeep. Wow feeling lucky the engine
and tans is in great shape considering the lack of maintenance.

I hope no cracking goes on after "restoring her" to like new again.
The next big "thang" is the rear end swap. She's leaking on the driveway from the seals and the noise is irritating. After that she should roll very well.
It's already running where I feel safe driving it locally . But with the rear end like that It wont be taken on long trips put it that way.

Bit it went from Junker to Spunker after all this was done and there's still a little left to go. But yes , she was neglected in almost every way.
And the best 800 I ever spent. All those parts , rear end used, was under 1200 so far. Total investment 2k. Not bad.... and now its highly reliable.

I've gotten help with , and thank you, with the rear end swap.
I need help locating that brake line. Looking under the car its the third metal line closest to you. There's three lines running down. This one is the bottom closest to you looking up at it. ITs totally rusted out and its many feet in length connecting to one of the master cylinder connections then head down the body to the rear end. I think its back left or right.

But I need that line and finding it may prove difficult if anyone can help.
I was told thus far I've save thousands of dollars in labor costs. LOL
Ill take that any day! And most of it accomplished from forum help, no manuals. No kidding.
Just alot of youtube, asking questions. Remember I've never worked on a car this is my first. And yes I stripped screw.
And yes I learned how to fix that out of this too. Nothing went perfect but I was patient and went slow and many times
had to redo things. But, now it's done right and she's returning the favor. Except, I got the new belt coated with power steering fluid
and radiator fluid. Its' squealing so I'm not getting a warm feeling that I can resolve this with out getting another new one?
It's not squealing in the video. But after the video I flushed the entire cooling system out with flush and back flushed.
Then I realized the lower radiator hose needed to be pushed on a bit more so I had to take off the power steering pump to fix it.
Between those two it dumped alot of fluid and contaminated the NEW belt. Which now squeals like a pig. I think I'm SOL?

IM EXHAUSTED NOW. Now that I know and have taught myself so much.
There are some things I'll never take my car in for ever again and some I may chunk over the change if I have it (timing chain - LOL).
Honestly that was a PITA just getting to that. But to to invest 2k in this when there is ZERO way I could afford a 40k plus SUV like this one today to me is WELL WORTH THE EFFORT. Right now it is riding pretty solid even with what needs to still be done. But that rear end grind I dont feel safe.


Thanks.

dave1123

You'd spend a lot of money buying the brake line from a dealer. Why not make one from readymade lengths from the auto parts store with couplers? OR you can buy the tube and make your own if you can flare the stuff. There is only one line going to the rear brakes and it "T"s on the rear axle with a hose and junction. I replaced mine with copper-nickle tubing so it will never rust again. The tube fittings are a standard double flare, not a bubble flare like some vehicles are.

You can take the belt off and scrub it with dishwashing liquid soap and water. It may save it. Wash off the pulleys also.

Fred/N0AZZ

At the rate your going before long you will have a "New" 99 WJ

dave1123

Fred, this guy took on an awfully big bite for his first ever automotive repair, but I think he's done very well. So far it's all been standard mechanical stuff, not electronic sensors. He's intelligent enough to do the research before just "shotgunning" parts at it. He is also fortunate in finding a basically sound jeep in need of some love. It's hard to catch up on 15 years of neglect.

You can do amazing things when you don't have to drive it the next day, lol! A lot of us don't have that luxury. He also seems to have a large wallet!

lakesideguy

Hi, just an update on my project as it has been grossly a massive undertaking. It went from an 800 dollar junk yard jeep into what I call a new WJ 4.0 Jeep and its now modified a bit. The rear end was totally replaced. New shocks, brakes, rotors, and the rear drive shaft rebuilt and I couldn't locate a Dana 35 here in IA. So we retrofitted a Dana 44a and shortened the drive shaft down 1 1/2" . The shop did all that for me 500 and I gave them the rest of the parts. I have bad neck those parts were too heavy. But now the rear end is restored and boy is that Dana 44a much nicer. It locks!
I can tell the rear is vastly improved.

My project continued into also replacing the alternator, drive pulley, tensioner, and yes sensors were out. The transmission speed sensor, throttle position sensor and AC switches were out causing the clutch not to engage. The AC compressor was replaced as it had bad bearing and the clutch was shot. And one of the lines had a leak after I pressure tested (yes I researched how to do it). So it has all new SEALS and orings on the AC lines and replaced the bad lines and again ALL new seals and sensor. Viola I got a 29 PSI pressure hold on the low side and the air is 40F at the vents!

I also repaired all vaccuum lines that leaked , oil pan gasket, oil pressure pump too and new pulley. I think I may have mentioned in this thread the shocks front breaks were done as well. Tie rods were put in and the front axle shafts were replaced since the CV boots were torn. There were also power steering pump high pressure line link so it got replaced.

Yes this cost around 3500 dollars all parts included and any additional labor costs. But the result is the car is practically NEW. I'll upload the engine compartment (and how quiet it is - ill explain this later on an intial sewing machine clack I think I may know).

THE RESULTS LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:

I'll upload pics of the engine bay and stuff to youtube. The last on the list are the following that needs to be addressed then it's solid new.

Muffler (rusted and its real bad like REAL BAD)
Suspect exhaust leak by motor somewhere (real big stench and loudness and occasional rattle I hear from time to time) . This I suspect is the cause of the sewing machine clack on start - when warm it seems to stop except for a sight and I mean LIGHT tick that is barely noticeable and it almost sounds like new car). Whoever said you can't get a jeep to be quiet is WRONG. This one is.

So, let me explain what is happening (and Youtube is coming).
The car when first started makes ZERO noises the engine bay is DEAD SILENT unlike other Jeep 4.0's I've hard that are really noisy this one starts out DEAD SILENT. I mean new car silent.

Then, after about 2 minutes it starts up a like a sewing machine clacking then when warms up dies down to a slight tick. During this time there is a noteable stench coming from the front not the rear. SO........
I'm thinking there might be an exhaust leak causing this . IF this was a REAL PROBLEM then my thinking is one if it were piston slap it should do it when I first start the car (and there was nothing in the pan by the way) it should be noisy right from key turn and especially since its ice cold. Two, if it were lifters it should do it when its cold and be a little more intermittent I'd think.

So, I'm left with thinking exhaust leak since there are a few prime suspects.
One being that god aweful stench in the front until warm. Then I'd think when you first start the car you'd hear noise. I hear NOTHING, brand new car start up for two minutes. Then sewing machine clack clack clack like a singer machine on crack. Then it stops when warm again. IT's really weird.

So it starts up DEAD SILENT for two minutes, singer sewing maching singing, then dies down after operating temp to very slight tick. Not even noticeable with windows up and barely noticeable until you go through a drive through window at McDonalds then you here a tiny ticking.

Then you might hear an exhaust rattle from the driver side front at time which I can't figure out why or what does that. It's rare to hear to it but sometimes you do.

My guess....
EXHAUST fitting, manifold possible leak and or crack.
The stench, the way it's behaving quiet on start for two minutes, then clacking like a singer (like all valves going nuts) then stopping.
Sounds like a heat expansion sealing the crack up is my guess.
I hear it loud and clear on the underside of the drive side of the car.
It sounds like valve tapping when the engine hood is open then when I got to the bottom boy that exhaust smell TERRIBLE. Then its louder right there.

So opinion would be great. Intermittent noise left of sewing maching then it mostly ends. No noise at start up WHAT SO EVER. IT's a happy 4.0 then two minutes singer away we go then staunchy smell then it quiets down.

Ill upload a video of the "new" jeep. I'm really proud and the way it started to now. It's not even the same car. It was dangerous to even drive it and it barely drove to begin with. Now, new car!
So happy and yes I am new at this! Wow did I learned ALOT about cars.
And the 4x4 part time and 4 wheel all now working. And thats another story as I learned all about needing hte limited slip fluid etc and why. But it fully working and when it snowed last week I engaged the part time and it flew right threw it. I was like OMG this jeep is freaking the bomb in snow. Holy crap! I feel safe now and that I'm really disgusted that all the previous had to do is just care of it! Geez then it wouldn't have turned into this complete mess. If it part fails freaking replace it or it will cause another part to fail and chain react. So, Im proud of the result thus far. Now this last issue of the sewing machine. Everyone says to me "lifters". I'm saying hmmmm.......then why on start for two minutes is it DEAD QUIET???
Then it starts doing it then it stops when warm. I've had some say piston slap. Nope don't htink so it doesn't stick around. Some said flex plate. Nope don't think that it either.

So any opine on that would be great given the exact symptom. Most of the jeep complaionts Ive read about NONE mention at cold start that its dead silent like mine then does it then stops. I've read that those issues they do it from key turn until warm. This seems to be different. Ill upload a vid as I said as well that it starts out DEAD SILENT then starts up two minutes later then warm up and stops to a slight tick.

WEIRD!
And ew that stench. Me thinks exhaust issue what do you think?

Anyway, when this is corrected I'm going to have it repainted.
And then I've saved 40k on a nice 4x4. Damn this thing RUNS AWESOME. So quiet now and no more noise or feeling scared. Runs FANTASTIC new car. YAY and I did it.
And no I dont have big wallet. If I did I'd be driving a new used car or new car. The investment of 3500 and having to do this was not much choice and my insurance is only 20 a month on this older car and no car payment which I most certainly cannot afford.
It was use the 4k for a car or this. I chose this. I'd never get a 4x4 of this calibre with 4k down today. And second, id have a car payment that I cannot afford with higher insurnace. So, it was a risk. I won. 20 bucks a month insurance and 4k on jeep and no car payment. I think I win!\

By the way the Dana44a i got from an 04 V8 was good thankfully and only cost 300 bucks.
So the rear end swap was 500 bucks (new shocks, brakes pads and all that).
That included drive shaft rebuild. Not bad I'd say! The old axle was bent and literally pouring at the seals all over the rear wheels and brakes. (was in wreck = poor JEEP had a pot head for an owner I'm sure from what I could tell). :-)

EDIT:
The past 4 oil chainges I've seafoamed it every time and now it's running a quart of marvel mystery oil.
Was wanting to clean the baby's insides up and it was recommened to do it a few times to get it all clean.

EDIT 2:
Also the oil I use it on now is Penzoil HIgh Mileage 10 30W (with 1 quart marvel mystery oil for now) .
ALL fluids from front of car to rear is all new and flushed out even the freon and oil in the compressor. LOL
So now I've got a real good picture of the maintenance on this vehicle. It's new from start at 130k.
Now I can track it!

WHAT A MASSIVE undertaking and lots of time and patience. But I do feel like an expert on the 99-04 4.0 Jeep at this point on problem symptom scenarios. I even had the issue of the dash blowing to defrost and found that to be not a vaccuum leak but it was missing the TSB for the one way check valve. Poof problem fixed. Power steering , I'vve seen others throw power steering actuators at it. Ooops not the issue more than likely. Most likely the hose beind the head light the T cracked or hose bad.
Been there done that too!

LOL!
And for the radiator fan and cooling systyem issues and this "relay" issue.
MOre than likely you'll blow more relays. It's most likely your radiator is clogged like mine causing the system to kick the fan on a draw high current blowing the relay and popping that fuse. The good is im an electroincs engineer. I knew the relay pop and fuse was something else. The fan was fine. I tested it. Sure enough it was that the fan was being run on high TOO MUCH and the current draw was on high for too long. That'll pop a relay or fuse every time. Taht is indication of high temps for too long. Check radiator.
And all be damned it was. So I didn't waste one dime on ANOTHER relay. It was the car over heating.
And if the radiator is in fact overheat condition and one side is blocked I learned the reading on the dash may not be correct necessarily you will have to check the theermostat and test the radiator PERIOD. The dash is NOT full proof. It's engine heat not checking if your flowing right. ;-)/. So the infamous relay and fuse issue is most likely not a relay issue at all. It might be intially but you will continue to pop relays and fuses and scratch your head that the fan is ok NOT realizing that the radiator is the real issue and that its most likely not flowing well causing excessive heat and the car turns on the electric fan for way too long pulling current which causes the relay to stay heated and burn up. BAM I'm telling you if that's happening to you it's not a relay issue.
Before even replacing that relay make sure the radiator is 100 percent at operating efficiency or you'll pop another relay within months from the fan pulling current on it too much heating that up. Not a problem since my radiator was determined to be the cause and now the fan doesn't even turn on NEAR as much anymore. That I noticed alot the fan doesn't run that much anymore.
And the temp is rock solid at 207. Don't be fooled by an eletric fan cooling coming on and then passing it off as OK. Nope not going to happen until you test the radiator. Excessive fan running or replacing and relocating relays IS a MUCH big indication of a bigger problem. Mine hardly runs at all now even in 90 degree weather. Unless AC is on then it should fire right up every time. Otherwise it shouldn't run that often. The symptom was at idle and that fan starts running all the time and the heat rises up to 210 then drop to 207 and you see a bit of flucuation its most likely a rad or thermostat issue. Yep I replaced teh fuse too. And it popped again. Then the relay went. And my head scratched well the fan comes on WTF? Then I put it all together. My engineering head went on. Then I brought out the multimeter and ran the fan and simulated blowing the relay and fuse. That told me "radiator" and that the system is telling the fan to turn on for too long blowing the relay and fuse out. It's not bad relays and not a bad design issue and not an issue of relocating it either. Those are all signs of the bigger issue and misdiagnosis. Ok you say but mine isn't it's staying around 205-210. Not necessarily. Go look at the fan is it running all the time? IT SHOULD NOT BE. The indicator is at idle mostly that I've found. If your fan is constantly running and you see ti rise a bit then fall your getting AIR COOLING from the electric fan. Not necessarily good water flow. IF you think about this running a fan draws current. If it's pulling current constantly then it's going to overheat the components it is connected to. Those components have current ratings. When they are reached it will pop them.
This is really in electronics 101 and yes I'm an engineer and don't just beleive me I'll break out formulas and start speccing out the Jeep 4.0's relay system for that fan and prove it too that's the cause. The fan running too long and high curren tis gioing to burn up the relay (specs on it) and pop that fuse. It can hold current draw for a time but silicon is eventualyl going to burn up. If your poping relays and fuses and its heat then the fan most likely is running to long causing that. Has NADA to do with location as the electric fan shouldnt be running all the time to begin with. Trust me :-) A partially clogged radiator is going to cause more heat and the car is going to turn that fan on more and to you nothing is wrong when in fact while the car may be operating ok and the overheat condition not real visible. The issue here is the sytem is compensenting for flow loss iin the radiator by using the fan to cool it more to compensate. It's a great design really since its a safeguard in the event one fails there's always backup cooling. The failure of one system is to let you know there's a problem and it might not be the actualy system that's failing (in this case the electronics is working as it should and being a backup to the mechanical) but it's not INTENDED to replace it. So the fuse and relay pop.
If that happens check the mechanical next. Electronics either work or do not if they keep blowing something is pulling too much current as the reason. In this case THE FAN. Why? Bad water flow system compensates. I've heard some say its poorly designed. Actually that is wrong. It's brilliantly designed as the electronic system is capable of compensating for mechanical fault at least for a time. The minute the fuse initailly pops dont just replace it FIND OUT WHY it did. It popped due to fault that the relay reported too much current. WHY? Fan ran too long. Why did it do that? Clogged radiator so it ran hotter the system says oh turn on fan again. LOL. For me beign an electronics engineer is makes total sense. When I hear bad design or location of relay I don't agree with that all. It's working as it should the issue is misdiagnosis or throwing parts at or calling something a POS when it's that you misdiagnosed the real problem. The lesson hear is just because a needle says something or a code says something its a symptom not necessarily THE CAUSE. That's up to you. In SOME cases it's obvious sensor in other not so. Such as the relay fuse over current error. That was the error. But that one you had to think about it. And you have to understand how electronics work on that to get it fully tested properly. I've seen others throw a fan motor on it. Fans motors would burn up as well best test it and connect to battery if it runs really high speed there's nothing wrong iwth it. If its barely turning or fighting a bit then replace it. If you have a multimeter you can spec the fan against the current readings you are getting but dont throw the part and say yeah its the fan. And then this whole time all the parts you threw at it and here sits the radiator UNTESTED. The system is working as it should and it's not a flawed cooling design either. It's rather fantasttic with SO MUCH redundancy and mine has a mechanical fan ALSO. That never runs, my electric fan hardly ever runs except for AC. THERE ARE THREE redundant system (one being electronic as well).
Folks thats a fantastic design.

To think how this all BEGAN.
It went from the new timing chain, sprockets and front seal massive leak and a cracked and broken guider to this.
And it was grossly noisy and sounded like it was going to grenade with marble grinding sounds all over and noises all over the car.
ALL GONE. NEW CAR sound and shifts amazingly like a new car I can barely tell.
I am so proud of this.

I almost forgot to mention every light on the dash was on but not anymore.
I even had to replace that clock spring to stop the stupid air bag light from coming on and had to replace all the bulbs
and lights (some were out some were yellow) and the lenses all the way around the car had to be replaced.
The rear tail lights circuit boards were failing (blinker sometimes worked) breaklights sometimes wouldn't come on.
Headlights and fog you couldn't even see do to sun damage at nighttime. ALL FIXED.

And the oil pressure sensor had to be replaced as well the guage went to well all the way up to the right.
All guages normal, car normal and all codes now READ "DONE" with nothing to report. The tweeter in the right side dash was blown as well I replaced it too and for the grand finale popped in a touch screen BOSS pop up 7" display that can play DVD and connect
to my cell phone hands free!

This car actually runs COOL or WARM for an engine to me. The 4.0 is well designed and doesn't generate alot of heat really.
I can touch the valve cover and not burn myself at all. It's warm but not like what it was at all. It's HAPPY.
And did I say finally NO LEAKS!!! YES.

And with respect to this problem of noise and maybe the exhaust.....................
The car does not consume any oil at all. Probably some but it doesn't burn any. The radiator fluid looks real good.
It's not contaminated so no oil and radiator being mixed and there appears to be ZERO leaks internal and external.
So it's operating properly. That much is for certain. This thing has got serious power on take off.
Before it would just sputter and die. Now the exhaust at the muffler is a PERFECT tune sound like a happy cat puring without any noteable audiable concern. And nothing coming out of the exhaust either for that matter other than what I cannot see. Before I could not say that. LOL

YOUTUBE VIDEO INCOMING.
Do I get cookies and milk for the best restore Jeep job for a rookie?
It went from a literally a non running unsafe car that was questionable to a new Jeep.
LOL
Its not painted yet but other than that its rock solid again. If I had the block painted in the front , new thermostat cover and did the valve cover you'd think it looked like the picture of a new motor. I wish I had just for that "signature" of me on it. But oh well.

The only thing two things not replaced and I shouldn't even mention it is the cam shaft position sensor and starter.
God please dont fail. Its the only two things that hasn't.
But they look like crap in there compared to all the other parts in the bay.
It really sticks out now.

FINAL THOUGHTS:
IF you have 40-50k to spend on a car like this one FIX IT when a part fails it will last forever.
This one obviously WAS NEVER maintained. I fault the OWNER on this one entirely. Their loss my gain.
The car is sound. So I hope they are going broke over buying cars constantly that break all the time.
Bad wish for someone but if you buy a car expect to maintain or you should not own one if you can't afford to fix it.
I mean some cars are a POS like KIA which I've owned one. Lasted maybe 30k miles before it fell to pieces. But most cars
I've maintained when I've bought new have gone well over 100k without any major issues. MAINTAIN, change fluids, did I SAY CHANGE FLUIDS????? Yes, CHANGE THE FLUIDS. You'd be shocked what happens. IT will actually keep running!

If you have diffrentials they'll last forever too but you have to change the gear oil. I ran into a friend he said my diff blew at 75k on my chevy and it was a 3 years old. I said well did you change the gear oil I just learned this on my Jeep? Nope. I said well there ya go I said it's not a POS you are for not following maintenance records. If half the people READ A MANUAL for god sakes the car would last alot longer . All these issues were maintenance issues on this poor Jeep I took over. Most of which could have caused the other faults the car had.
The throttle BODY was a disaster coated with OIL painted black burnt all over requiring me to use a toothbrush to it.
Geez some people.......I have a feeling this Jeep is going to be kind to me now after all that love.
You tell me after you see this and hear this motor and engine bay. I've not heard a Jeep sound this nice on Youtube.
Like I said it starts for 2 minutes NOT A PEEP but regular sound. Then sewing machine then stops. But I've yet to hear one this quiet on Youtube. AT least I think it's exhaust causing it. The dead silent issue for two minutes, smell , occasional rattle I hear by driver side and then it stops when warm except slight tick to me sounds like exhaust leak causing it. Incoming youtube and you be the judge. Seeing and hearing is BELIEVING IT.

Jeeps can run well and run QUIET!

dave1123

There are 2 catalytic converters on the exhaust headers that are probably making the rattle and stink, especially if one has a hole in it. There are 02 sensors just above them.

peep

Super work Lakesideguy, super!
You are now afflicted with Jeep syndrome, no cure.
Costs of treatment can escallate.
Treatable by acquiring additional Jeeps.
Aftermarket upgrades may keep symptoms at bay for short periods of time.
How about some clear aftermarket lenses for that baby?
Super work, congrats!!!

lakesideguy

I replaced all lights on it. They were in bad shape.
In fact, the whole car is about done other than paint job now.

Take a look. Also, any comments on this one last issue of clacking then stops would be great. The video is 15 minutes but it shows the problem from start to finish.

Is my engine good is the big question of the day and is this most likely exhaust?

dave1123

There is a slight lifter tick that's normal for ANY 4.0, matter of fact it quieter in that respect than most, but I'd say most of the noise, as well as the stink, is because one of your catalytic converters is cracked. It's loud when it gets hot and then gets quieter as up warms up enough to expand and close the crack. The last part of the video, where you got down behind the wheel, was the clincher. I could hear the deep throb of the exhaust from the crack.

The exhaust manifolds on the WJs are cast iron, split for 3 cylinders each, and each with it's own cat. On the CA emissions cars, there are 4 02 sensors, 2 upstream just before the cats, and 2 downstream just after the cats. then there is one more cat under the passenger's door without a sensor in it. On the Federal emissions cars, there are 3 sensors, 2 upstream and 1 downstream in the y-pipe, then the 1 cat under the door.

Again, the engine sounds perfect and is quieter than my 2000 with respect to the lifter noise. I even put new double-oil-groove lifters in it when I did the head change. I wouldn't worry at all about the engine.

Fred/N0AZZ

One small bit of advice when it comes to replacing sensors don't use the Auto Parts store ones use only Mopar branded ones. They can be bought a little cheaper at an online Mopar dealer if desired but worth every penny because they work every time and last not like the others.


As much money as you have invested I would do the preemptive strike and replace the "0331 Head" before it's to late and you miss it long enough the trash the engine.