pulling trans-95 ZJ 5.2, what needs to be disconnected?
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
pulling trans-95 ZJ 5.2, what needs to be disconnected?
On monday im going to work on pulling my trans because i need to replace leaking front pump seals. I will have access to a lift. What all is connected to the trans that needs to be disconnected to remove it from the vehicle? i just want to know all that is connected as far as sensors and whatever else so i dont rip any wires.
95 zj 5.2 46RH transmission
95 zj 5.2 46RH transmission
#2
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
At the very least...your neutral safety switch and possibly trans output shaft speed sensor. If the t case is electro shift, then those associated connectors as well. Maybe trans temp sensor too?
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Drive shafts, cross member, transmission linkage, t-case linkage, unplug all of the connectors and unclip the harness from the brackets, starter, dipstick tube, front inspection covers, crank sensor, and maybe a few other things.
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
All the above, and the cooler lines of course, and be sure to unbolt the convertor from the flexplate before unbolting the flexplate from the crank. That way you don't forget it.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.
Last edited by ol"blue; 10-19-2012 at 09:14 AM.
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Year: 1990 Diesel
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
All the above, and the cooler lines of course, and be sure to unbolt the convertor from the flexplate before unbolting the flexplate from the crank. That way you don't forget it.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.
Also, I think I need to remove the oil filter too because one bolt is located just in front of it! Is this normal?
#6
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Have you ever been under a vehicle before? Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing and you will have access to the four torque converter bolts, you will have to turn the engine over by HAND in order to get to all of the bolts.
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#8
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Year: 1990 Diesel
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
While I'm at it, how do you safely turn the engine over? Do I need to put a wrench on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft?
Clarification, this is the first time I'm pulling the transmission off a Grand Cherokee, or an automatic transmission in general. Just asking...
Last edited by Cyriac; 04-14-2014 at 05:50 AM.
#9
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
You can put a wrench on the crank pulley or use a pry bar on the ring gear of the torque converter, or use a wrench on the torque converter bolts to spin the crank.
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Year: 1990 Diesel
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
Anyway, thanks for the help!
#12
Old fart with a wrench
When you go to remove the bolts, you'll have to tap on the wrench with a hammer or the back of your hand to break them loose. A steady pressure will just turn the engine. Or lock the flywheel in place with a wedge of wood. It's basically just like removing a clutch pressure plate.
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