dave1123

I'm not sure, but you might have to mount the isolaters on the spring first, then mount them on the axle. Just a guess.

HP2

Reading through this thread hoping there was a clear solution to this. Seems like friction modifiers is the first step, then rebuilding the internal pump.

I have a '99 Grand Cherokee with Select-Trac with Vari-lock. On my shift console I have 2wd, 4wd part time, 4wd full time, N and 4wd low. The previous owner I bought it from had the front end replaced because he quote "burned it up". He really couldn't expand on it much more than that other to say it started making a lot of noise and he had a reputable local shop replace the entire front end. Since then he noticed the click and though it was tie rod ends.

I too noticed the clicking when I bought it. It only occurs on sharp right hand turns, not on left turns at all. I have noticed the steering feels like its in 4wd despite the shift selector being in 2wd. I also noticed that when the front end is in the air, turning the passenger side wheel turns the front driveshaft. Turning the driver's side wheel does nothing.

Thinking it was a cv joint going out, this is what it sounds like, I replaced the half shafts last week only to find out the clicking was still there. It is not as pronounced as previous and it takes a tighter turn to produce than before.

I will continue diagnosing to nail down what exactly it may be. I certainly hope it does not involved a gear carrier replacement/rebuild. The whole axle swap was not a solution in my case, and may only buy time for others contemplating the same.

00t444e

First of all are you sure you have a Vari-lock in the front axle? Most Selec trac np242 equipped Grand Cherokees did not have a Vari-Lock in the front axle. I am not very familiar with the operation of the vari-lock but from what I understand it has spider gears just like a normal open or limited slip differential and it uses a georotor to engage a clutch pack when one wheel is slipping, but like any clutch type limited slip the clutches can wear out leaving you with an open differential.
The first thing I would do is put it in 4x4 part time with the transmission in park and raise the front wheels only. Then try to spin one of the front wheels by hand, if it spins and the other wheel spins in the opposite direction then that means both your spider gears and axles are not broken, if it makes noise then that could be worn out spider gears, or CV joints. If the wheels do not spin then you could have a sticking brake or you could have a Vari-lock and the clutch pack is sticking. If just one wheel spins and the other does nothing then you could have a broken axle shaft or something in the carrier is broken. Perform that test and give us the results.

HP2

I'll admit I do not know what transfer case I have. I am not absolutely certain, but based on the parts needed for replacement, seem to have a Vari-lock front axle. I can say I have never seen a Select-Trac shift with 4 part time and 4 full time detent. All I have seen previously were 2d, 4hi, N and 4lo.

So, I have already done what you've suggested. The front end was put in the air, it was in 4 part time. Spinning the drivers side tire does nothing. Spinning the passenger side does not turn the other wheel, but does turn the driveshaft. It does not make any noise when spinning either front tire either direction. Axles shafts are not broken, not are cv joints. They were all replaced last week and the replacements I took out were not broken previously.

When I ordered replacements axles, I order 4wd, Select Trac half shafts with cv joints. When they arrived I torn into the vehicle only to discover the drivers side unit was an inch too long and the passenger side unit was an inch too short. A call to a local parts store to see what they had on hand yielded the results that the proper length axles were Select-Trac with Vari-lock.

Based on your comments, I may have an issue with something in the carrier, be it a broken part, stripped spider, bad clutch or gerotor/pump. It appears pulling the cover is the next step, but I'd like to dig up a bit more information and maybe even exploded diagrams of the Vari-Lock. Although I might try a tube of friction modifier before then just to see if it helps.

HP2

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00t444e

Response are in red.

dave1123

Okay guys, Vari-lock was only available with Quadra-Drive in 99. If you have front Vari-lock and a 242 t/case, something has been changed! Either-Or. Check it out at wjjeeps.com

The t/case with 2wd, 4wd, N, and 4lo is the 231 found in XJs.

HP2

So, on the chance I wasn't in park when performing this test previously ( I was in the middle of swapping half shafts previously, so my memory may be fuzzy) I duplicated the test request above. In 4wd part time, and park, spinning one wheel causes the other to spin the opposite direction. The driveshaft does not turn. However, after about 3/4 of a revolution of either tire, there is a small click and then the tire becomes increasingly more difficult to turn into it almost lock ups. This is what I would interpret a Vari-lock axle to do simply by virtue of its name.

Tried the same test in 2wd and park with the steering to right lock trying to see if I could get it to click like what I'm hearing. No luck.

Verified the t-case is a 242 and again, the correct half shafts that fit the housing were Select-track with Vari-lock. Saw this on Rockauto and two local parts stores confirmed it when searching parts as well.

Now, how does this all relate to a loud clicking noise on extreme right hand turns only, when in 2wd, that sounds exactly like a bad cv joint, despite have good joints, and it will not duplicate on a similar left hand turn?

00t444e

By what you have described it sounds like you do have the varilock front axle. The clicking could be the CV joints or bad driveshaft u joints.

HP2

As I mentioned earlier, the CV joints and half shafts were replaced last week. There is maybe 10-12 miles on them at this point. The u-joints in the axles were replaced about 100 miles ago.

HP2

Did some more testing this weekend. Drove up some paved switch backs locally. Clicking only occurs on sharp right hand turns, while acellerating, going up hill. It does not occur on left hand turns. It does not occur on sharp right hand turns going down hill with no throttle. I can make the noise on sharp right hand figure 8s on flat pavement, which also has some throttle engagement.

HP2

After much checking, finally got this corrected. Due to mileage, the suspension bushings were pretty soft and fairly worn. When making turns, bushing compliance allowed just a slight amount of lateral movement in the front axle. When turning right, it would push the axle to the right and allow the front differential flange to contact a heat shield on the exhaust system. As the bolts in the flange rotated by, it would snag the heat shield, slightly pull it out and then allow it to snap back.

New bushings eliminated the slop, no more axle displacement, no more clicking.

blueseasons

In my humble opinion, the QD is a "nice to have" vs. "have to have". If 4 low works thats all you really need.

Patman

Somewhat related but I have a 95 2dr XJ 4x4 and have an opportunity to get my hands on the D44/D30 combo with Varilocks for a couple hundred or so. Is this a worthy investment? Will is install well enough? Id imagine that Id need to change the shock and spring mounts. Other than that, should it be a decent fit? Any recommendations?


Okay, I just noticed that this post is older than Jesus.

gshadd

Ghack, I'm having same initial issue you described. What was the final fix?