Ran good then doesn't start 2000 4.0l Cherokee just bought it
#1
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Ran good then doesn't start 2000 4.0l Cherokee just bought it
Hello and thanks in advance. I bought this Grand Cherokee Laredo at a decent price with 179,000 miles. The owner was driving it daily to work. I drove it home and found 5 new tires on jeep rims for $300. After fixing a coolant leak I watched the gas spraying out of a pinhole in the fuel rail. I found one with injectors for $26 and were installed yesterday. All air was bled from the line and it started. It ran rough at the start then smoothed out. It was running good then stopped as if the key turned off. Started it back up removed the jumper cables and let it run for 40 min. It ran as it should I shut it off and turns over but would not start. I can't stand for extended periods of time due to an accident. I have not checked the plugs or coils yet. I need this back on the road before the cold and snow creeps in. Any input and/or direction would be appreciated. I just found the service manual online.
Here it is Oct 1 and still hasn't seen the road. I LOST THE KEYS!!!!! Just had a locksmith come and make new ones OUCH. The good news as soon as he cut the keys it started right up and blew out the tranny line!!! yay OMG I bought this in july 2019 and haven't driven it on the road yet.
Here it is Oct 1 and still hasn't seen the road. I LOST THE KEYS!!!!! Just had a locksmith come and make new ones OUCH. The good news as soon as he cut the keys it started right up and blew out the tranny line!!! yay OMG I bought this in july 2019 and haven't driven it on the road yet.
Last edited by Doug_I; 10-01-2020 at 01:24 PM. Reason: UPDATE
#2
Banned
If it is a crank, no-start condition you have to look at the basics to see if there is spark or adequate fueling...
That is the first step.
That is the first step.
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Doug_I (11-07-2019)
#3
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Doug, I can relate! I bought my 2002 WJ last year, started home, and it died less than a half mile from where I bought it. Had it towed home. Not fun.
Noah's right. Let's find out if it's spark or fuel that's missing. Then we can go from there.
Don't assume that this is related to the work you did. It's the first place to check, but coincidence does happen.
By the way, my problem was the Crank Position Sensor. Just under $200 from the dealer. It's been fine since. A word of advice - don't buy after market sensors for these cars. They are very picky, especially about the crank and cam sensors, and the O2 sensors. Just bite the bullet and pay for the real thing on these items.
Noah's right. Let's find out if it's spark or fuel that's missing. Then we can go from there.
Don't assume that this is related to the work you did. It's the first place to check, but coincidence does happen.
By the way, my problem was the Crank Position Sensor. Just under $200 from the dealer. It's been fine since. A word of advice - don't buy after market sensors for these cars. They are very picky, especially about the crank and cam sensors, and the O2 sensors. Just bite the bullet and pay for the real thing on these items.
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Doug_I (11-07-2019)
#4
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Latest Update 3/21/21
After changing the Crank Position sensor bought from the auto parts store, It still stalled after running for about ten min. I then bought a Mopar sensor and installed it a second time. I drove to a Dr. appointment and it performed normally, on the way home was a different story. stalled out 4 times
3:40 p.m. March 18th 19.3 mi round trip
After changing the Crank Position sensor bought from the auto parts store, It still stalled after running for about ten min. I then bought a Mopar sensor and installed it a second time. I drove to a Dr. appointment and it performed normally, on the way home was a different story. stalled out 4 times
3:40 p.m. March 18th 19.3 mi round trip
#5
Old fart with a wrench
First thing to do is check for trouble codes. Is the check engine light on? It's possible the cam sensor is at fault because it and the crank sensor are related, but don't assume that's it without checking for a trouble code. Most times a crank sensor won't set a trouble code unless it's not functioning at all, but a cam sensor will set a code, sometimes. The crank sensor tells the computer where the engine is in it's rotational position whereas the cam sensor is used for injector timing. Also, don't assume your new crank sensor is good just because it's new. I've seen them be bad right out of the box! Mopar sensors are expensive...for a reason.
The way the system works is when you turn the key on, everything becomes live, the fuel pump runs momentarily to bring up fuel pressure then shuts off. When you engage the starter, the crank sensor sends a signal to the computer which turns on the ASD relay. The ASD relay turns on the ignition coil rail, the injector circuit, and the fuel pump relay.
You can test of power on the ignition or injector circuit while it's cranking to show if the crank sensor is working.
BTW, Where in NY are you...if you don't mind telling? ALSO, how did the locksmith program your keys with the SKIM code? Or has the SKIM been eliminated?
The way the system works is when you turn the key on, everything becomes live, the fuel pump runs momentarily to bring up fuel pressure then shuts off. When you engage the starter, the crank sensor sends a signal to the computer which turns on the ASD relay. The ASD relay turns on the ignition coil rail, the injector circuit, and the fuel pump relay.
You can test of power on the ignition or injector circuit while it's cranking to show if the crank sensor is working.
BTW, Where in NY are you...if you don't mind telling? ALSO, how did the locksmith program your keys with the SKIM code? Or has the SKIM been eliminated?
Last edited by dave1123; 03-21-2021 at 10:16 PM.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
2 years later 19 miles logged
Well i haven't had any reason to go anywhere and just replaced the cam sensor. It started ran for 20 seconds then stalled. Started right back up and ran great for 35 minutes. That was Saturday today It started normally ran for 10 seconds then shut off. Repeated the same behavior 3 times. I am so sick of this vehicle.
Last edited by Doug_I; 01-27-2023 at 06:06 PM.
#7
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Thread Starter
1/30/2023 update aka wtf
So still not on the road, but ran great after putting in a new battery and resetting the security system for the 3rd time. Yesterday, I bypassed the heater core after a fogging windshield. I'm really not interested in taking out the dash with fridged temps on the way and a bum leg. I started it to make sure the hose wasn't leaking and sure enough it went back to 3 sec run then shutting off. Today I'll see about cleaning the ground wires and resetting the security system again. When will it end!
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#8
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Thread Starter
2000 WJ security system reset that worked
I went through every suggestion I could find and the only one that did work was thisStep 1
Enter your Jeep and press the Lock button on your keyless remote five times in 10 seconds.
Press and release the "Lock" button by itself and wait for the car's chimes to sound again to indicate successful resetting. Remove the key from the ignition when you are done to finish the procedure.
Enter your Jeep and press the Lock button on your keyless remote five times in 10 seconds.
Step 2
Insert your key into the car's ignition, turn it to the "Run" position and wait for the car's chimes to stop.Step 3
Press and hold the "Unlock" button on your remote, and then press and hold the "Panic" button while still holding "Unlock." Hold both buttons together for one second and release.Step 4
Wait for a chime to sound and press and release the "Lock" and "Unlock" buttons on your remote.Press and release the "Lock" button by itself and wait for the car's chimes to sound again to indicate successful resetting. Remove the key from the ignition when you are done to finish the procedure.
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