Rear diff yolk nut
#1
Rear diff yolk nut
Hi all i am in the middle of trying to replace bearings on my rear diff on 98 grand jeep cherokee with dana 35, can someone please tell me what direction the yolk nut turns to be able to remove yolk i have been stuck on this for two days even purchased a rattle gun still no go
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#3
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 730
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Welcome to CF!
It also takes over 150 lb/ft of torque to remove it. You'll need a long "cheater" pipe on your breaker bar and a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke. The nut is an interference fit on the thread.
Rebuilding a rear axle is not for the inexperienced unless you do a LOT of research and understand how critical the bearing preload and tooth alignment is. Once you do one, it's easy after that. It's MORE intense than rebuilding an automatic trans for the first time.
It also takes over 150 lb/ft of torque to remove it. You'll need a long "cheater" pipe on your breaker bar and a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke. The nut is an interference fit on the thread.
Rebuilding a rear axle is not for the inexperienced unless you do a LOT of research and understand how critical the bearing preload and tooth alignment is. Once you do one, it's easy after that. It's MORE intense than rebuilding an automatic trans for the first time.
#4
thanks guys for your promt reply I am just trying to replace the bearings on the pinion shaft I hope it is forgiving I will try using the breaker bar with a pipe as recommended I hope it goes well I need my car for work and its making a really loud wurring noise
Cheers guys
Cheers guys
#5
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 730
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There are 2 bearings with a crush sleeve in there. To replace the rear bearing, the ring gear assembly has to come out. The bearing preload is 18 to 21 INCH POUNDS torque to turn JUST the pinion. You'll need about 200 FOOT POUNDS to start the crush sleeve, then a little less. As you take up the looseness in the bearings, stop and check the "torque-to-turn" of the pinion. Going too tight will require a new crush sleeve.
Remember It takes MEGA lb/ft of torque to turn the nut, but INCH POUNDS to turn just the pinion in it's bearings.
If you keep the original spacers behind the pinion inner bearing, your gear lash should be pretty close.
Remember It takes MEGA lb/ft of torque to turn the nut, but INCH POUNDS to turn just the pinion in it's bearings.
If you keep the original spacers behind the pinion inner bearing, your gear lash should be pretty close.
Last edited by dave1123; 10-26-2015 at 09:42 PM.
#6
Thanks Dave that worked perfect it came straight off and bearings are out I noticed the crush bearing is worn out the outer edge and the bearings have bad pitting on the inner sleeve where the rollers run on the surface thanks once again for the help it is much appreciated.
cheers
cheers
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