E-Rok

I know the starter is on the other side but does that bolt to the flywheel or block? Never looked on these motors

TrollHammer

Ok, any trick to popping the intake off? Any hidden bolts back there near the firewall or anything? Not sure what is safe to pry on or against. Still need to drop the exhaust pipes but the manifolds are loose, and I think I have everything disconnected as the manual says except I havent removed the distributor cap.and oil sender ( not sure why youd need to). Going to have trouble with some.of.the vacuum lines: the last person who worked on it had them all tangled up and doubled back (as well as spliced, broken,etc) so at least one vacuum control mechanism is unclear how.it hooks back in.

Will need info on the vacuum stuff later.

blackjack12982

It bolts to the transmission, as long as you use your ZJ transmission, you can use any 5.9 Magnum engine. Just use the sensors off of the ZJ engine if you're going between OBD I and OBD II.

E-Rok

intake manifold comes right off, no hidden bolts. the manifold will want to catch on the valve covers when you pull it off, but it comes off with no surprises.

I wouldnt think you need the manifold to be removed to pull the engine

TrollHammer

Decided to change tactics based on money and time available. Pulling the heads and inspecting the cylenders while keeping an ear out for a replacement engine. If its just the heads that need work, or better yet, just the head gaskets, then Ill just slap them back on and go with that, and if I have any other issues Ill make a judgment call then. Id like to swap it or rebuild it but too much else is going on and i have other vehicles piling up needing work. The biggest issue is that I dont feel confident with figuring tolerances in the bottom end if I dont have to.

I think I have all the bolts out of the manifold and the valve covers are loose, but the gasket is well sealed on. I dont know if it is just normal adheasion Ive seen on the water pump or if they RTV'd it, but it wont even let go gently prying against the thermostat buldge on the front and whacking with a rubber mallet. I dont want to shove a screwdriver in the gasket or pry on the mating services, but Im not sure what else to do. I might try using a razor blade on the side of the gasket, now that I think of it.

E-Rok

are you SURE you got all the bolts off? theres one on each side way back there

TrollHammer

Ill recheck. That what I was wondering. Judging from the cylenders I got them all, but I'll make sure. Would the be passed the oil sender and distributor, or does the intake manifold end where the back side rounds over and goes down straight?

E-Rok

It kind of wraps around the distributor

TrollHammer

Yeah, found the bolt behind the EGR, which I also forgot. Its moving now, but Ive tried two different tools to get the fuel lines disconnected, and neither works, and the closer parts store has no others. I was thinking of slitting a piece of plastic tube to fit in there, think itll work?

TrollHammer

Found a cheap replacement engine (if I can just get it picked up!). However...

Still can't get the fuel lines disconnected from the rail! I was given another set of disconnect tools and still can't get it apart!

Looked around on the internet and here on the site and no one else seems to have problems. What might I be doing wrong? Should I just pull the fuel rail instead?

mustangdart

push the disconnect tool into the connector then push the connector twards the rail, wiggle the tool into the connector all the way, then pull the fuel line away from the rail. It sometimes helps to spray the connector w/ some wd 40 first.

TrollHammer

Ill try the wd40, feels like Im going to break the tool.

blackjack12982

Try to push both lines together as much as possible, then get the fuel line tool in very securely, you'll hear a faint little "clipping" sound, and it'll come apart.


I did mine with I did the plenum gasket on my 5.2, and it was a bear the first time, ever since then it's not bad.