rk111

When unlocking the car w remote, with me outside of the vehicle and engine not running, the low beams and bottom red lights come on for a while, both pass and driver side. Likewise when locking. So I know the wiring and bulbs are fine, along with whatever relays that send the voltage to the bulbs.

But, when I am in the car, w engine running and try to turn on (force) low beam, nothing happens on pass-side, low beam stays off. Driver side is fine. I did replace the lights, didnt fix the issue.

With all lights in off position on the stalk, engine running, when I use turn signals, both sides work fine. But as soon as I try to turn on low-beam and then try signalling the RH turn, the RH (pass-side) turn signal bulb doesnt work (blink), the ticking sound pickups up pace as if the bulb is blown, but we know it is fine. LH turn signal works fine. And the pass side low beam doesnt turn on, driver side is fine.

The high beam on pass side doesnt work either.

I switched the 2 relays in the relay box, the ones that have something to do with the lights (at least the description sez so on the underside of the fuse box), that didnt fix the issue and the issue didnt migrate from pass side to the driver side.

Any advice is most appreciated !

rk111

After some research, looks like there are no relays, lights are controlled directly by what Chrysler calls "FCM".

Lots of complaints about ground circuits in Chrysler vehicles, good video here . Will try to look into that.

jstern

Same exact problem started last week on my '08. Replaced multifunction switch on steering column which changed nothing. No right turn signal with clicker in car going crazy, no low beams, no high beams. Any help appreciated.

Cherryokee

I think you're supposed to replace the blinker fluid every four years or 50k miles !!! But seriously, you might not believe me but this all sounds like dirty/worn contacts at lamps, sockets, connectors, switch(es) and/or grounds going bad.

If it hasn't happened yet then replace the tail lamps and while replacing them pay close attention to bulb orientation (where they may appear reversible), as well as the conditions of connectors and contacts.
Use electrical contact cleaning products per manufacturer instructions and, in some locations, apply dielectric grease.

If things do not appear to have improved after that easy and inexpensive tail lamp exercise (at least now those are all refreshed) then move on to cleaning-up the respective circuit grounding points.

If none of that plays-out then the headlamp and/or ignition switch may be defective, but before going there you might want to perform deeper electrical diagnostics.

jstern

Tail light is one of the few things that's actually working. I'm going to put the scan tool on it which I've yet to do to see if anything comes up. Right or wrong I'm thinking it's a bad ground. Several people have tried to trace the original ground to the headlights without great success. Some have said you have to remove the air box and check that connection point underneath but overriding thought is still bad ground somewhere and I might just throw wire from the harness point to a good ground point and see if I can get something to light up.

Cherryokee

BTW, shame on me, where are my manners? Welcome to CherokeeForum!

...and the brake lights? Do they work under every circuit config regardless of lamps on/off or key in run/off position? If there's no CEL then "true" codes on the scan tool for that kind of failure seem unlikely. Hey, what the hey, I may not always be right but I'm rarely wrong...but it happens .

Removing the air box is a walk in the park. Do it right and, despite being more difficult than "ground-jumpering" you won't regret it, as other important things can be revealed while in-process. Got penetrating oil? Start spritzing those fasteners...

Also, please take a moment to add a little detail to your profile? Enjoy!

jstern

No issues with brake lights at all. Thanks for the welcome!

jstern

UPDATE:
Never found the actual passenger side headlight ground but was able to send an additional solid 14 gauge ground stuck along side the blinker ground (black wire) in the the lightbulb housing to a body ground right next to the coolant reservoir. Everything working fine now. The blinker ground is the only bulb housing that's three wire.

rk111

In my case it was the ground issue as well. The passenger side ground lug (G103 IIRC) was cut off, wires stripped anew and new lug crimped on.

jstern

Thanks a lot. Where exactly is that ground lug situated in the engine compartment for the G103?

jstern

G103 ground point.
Existing wires more or less snapped off in my hands from the circular fittings they were crimped onto. Had some cheap blade connectors that I crimped the existing wires on after stripping them down. Now horn and remote start work.