Transmission help please
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: V8
Transmission help please
1995 Grand Cher Laredo 4.0L
Drove all over last night and only felt a shudder from the trans in driveway.
Picked up today drove to get fuel and sprayed degreaser on engine and trans, drove off to wash and the trans just loses grab and slips out of gear so to speak.
No burnt fluid at all!
Let sit and she goes and then slips.
Bad solinoid or sticky valve from not having the update?????????????????
Going to get parts truck in a bit I hope.
Drove all over last night and only felt a shudder from the trans in driveway.
Picked up today drove to get fuel and sprayed degreaser on engine and trans, drove off to wash and the trans just loses grab and slips out of gear so to speak.
No burnt fluid at all!
Let sit and she goes and then slips.
Bad solinoid or sticky valve from not having the update?????????????????
Going to get parts truck in a bit I hope.
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It ran fine this am till you degreased it?
I would consider water in electrical harness.. or a sensor somewhere. Start opening them all, blow out and fill with dielectric grease.
Check for dry grounds as well.
And theres no water in fluid?
I would consider water in electrical harness.. or a sensor somewhere. Start opening them all, blow out and fill with dielectric grease.
Check for dry grounds as well.
And theres no water in fluid?
#3
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Update
No, no water, all I did was spray Gunk Cleaner.
Trans fluid is not burnt (even after I reved the crud out of it)
Trans kicks in then seems to slip and rev high.
Changed relay under glove box no changes.
Play with O/D button and trans kicks in sometimes.
Let sit in gear it kicks in.
Give truck a push by one foot out door trans kicks in but then loses it's grab.
Bad sensors?????????
Is this a no drop the pan fix?
Cost?
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
95 4.0L eh, you have the 42RE trans known to be junk. Most i see go in the 150K mile range.
Just installed one last winter, found a deal on a dealer replaced unit then wrecked ZJ.
Google 42RE and you should get some technical info on the failures probably.
Just installed one last winter, found a deal on a dealer replaced unit then wrecked ZJ.
Google 42RE and you should get some technical info on the failures probably.
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Engine: 4.0L, 63mm TB, FIPK, Gibson Exhaust
you might try disconnectingthe throttle cable (TV) that goes fromthe throttle body to the tranny and then pull the cable all the way out. THat is fully extend it like it would be at wide open throttle. THis will set teh fluid pressure for shifting to max. If this fixes it, it may be a simple adjustment of teh throttle cable or you maybe loosing fluid pressure inside the tranny at lower throttle pressure.
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Year: 1993
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you might try disconnectingthe throttle cable (TV) that goes fromthe throttle body to the tranny and then pull the cable all the way out. THat is fully extend it like it would be at wide open throttle. THis will set teh fluid pressure for shifting to max. If this fixes it, it may be a simple adjustment of teh throttle cable or you maybe loosing fluid pressure inside the tranny at lower throttle pressure.
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#8
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Year: 1993
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As I posted as of now there is no burnt fluid.
I'll get another trans anyway but do have 3 buddies who own trans shops so I'll just Email them a small bug and they will cry and I'll tell them I can fix it if they fix the trans
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Yeah so I was just told so by 2 friends with trans shops and both seem to think that even if I do the minor repair it will happen again or it is already beyond a simple fix.
For the 46RE lovers both guys said they are far worse than the 42RE.
Some of you might have seen this before and others it might help.
For the 46RE lovers both guys said they are far worse than the 42RE.
Some of you might have seen this before and others it might help.
08-15-2007
42RE Governor Pressure Solenoid and Sensor fix
Before you crack the pan on your tranny and dig into the internals I'm going to assume that you have done a fluid/filter change and have already check your kick down linkage to make sure it is properly adjusted. If you have done theses already and your tranny is no better then read on!
Before you crack the pan on your tranny and dig into the internals I'm going to assume that you have done a fluid/filter change and have already check your kick down linkage to make sure it is properly adjusted. If you have done theses already and your tranny is no better then read on!
If you Jeep came with a 4.0L engine and automatic then most likely the tranny behind it is a 42RE. This is the little brother to the 46RH/RE and though not as heavy duty still it is a tough transmission in its own right.
The E in 42RE is ELECTRONIC control. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) via a solenoid valve and a pressure sensor mounted in the valve body controls the governor pressure.
When it all works, is works great. But when there is a problem with a 42RE the usual suspects are the electrical parts associated with control.
Some of the most common symptoms are erratic shifts and downshifts.
You also might notice very sluggish performance when starting from a stop. This is usually because the tranny is starting in 2nd gear instead of 1st.
If these symptoms describe how your Jeep is behaving first check for trouble codes.
Cycle the ignition 3 times (leave it in the run position on the 3rd) and watch the OD light on the dash. The flashes you see are the codes for the TCM (NOT PCM that is the check engine light) if the codes are a 14, 21, 26; these are related to governor pressure sensor and solenoid problems. But you may have NO codes (a 55) that reveal any problem. That does not mean that there isn't an issue with the electrical internals of the tranny.
Ok, let’s take a look at the usual suspects.
The E in 42RE is ELECTRONIC control. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) via a solenoid valve and a pressure sensor mounted in the valve body controls the governor pressure.
When it all works, is works great. But when there is a problem with a 42RE the usual suspects are the electrical parts associated with control.
Some of the most common symptoms are erratic shifts and downshifts.
You also might notice very sluggish performance when starting from a stop. This is usually because the tranny is starting in 2nd gear instead of 1st.
If these symptoms describe how your Jeep is behaving first check for trouble codes.
Cycle the ignition 3 times (leave it in the run position on the 3rd) and watch the OD light on the dash. The flashes you see are the codes for the TCM (NOT PCM that is the check engine light) if the codes are a 14, 21, 26; these are related to governor pressure sensor and solenoid problems. But you may have NO codes (a 55) that reveal any problem. That does not mean that there isn't an issue with the electrical internals of the tranny.
Ok, let’s take a look at the usual suspects.
If you drop your transmission pan and remove the filter (prepare yourself for a fluid bath) you should see this (from passenger side of vehicle).
This is the governor body with the pressure solenoid and pressure sensor installed.
To get to the 2 electrical parts you have to remove the governor body.
First things first though. Let’s take a look at the sensor and solenoid.
This is the governor body with the pressure solenoid and pressure sensor installed.
To get to the 2 electrical parts you have to remove the governor body.
First things first though. Let’s take a look at the sensor and solenoid.
The solenoid is on the left and sensor on the right. The solenoid is backwardly compatible in all versions of the 42RE but there are 2 versions of the sensor.
There is a 3 pin and a 4 pin version of the sensor. The 3 pin is the early production and is the version in '93-'95 Jeeps (as a rule). The bad news is that this version is very hard to find aftermarket. You have to shell out $120 to the dealership for it. The 4 pin that you see here is the '96 and up version that is widely available from transmission parts distributors for around $40. I would suggest BEFORE you go parts shopping to pull your pan and disconnect the harness and look at what version is in your Jeep! I was surprised to find out that even though I have a '94 ZJ (should have the 3 pin) it had a 4 pin sensor installed. It had been converted to the later version sometime in the past or there was a later model 42RE installed.
To remove the governor body it is 2 hex bolts the same as the ones in the filter, and 4 bolts. First disconnect the 2 connectors, and then unbolt the governor body. (Careful with the gasket!) Carefully remove the governor body. Now that it is out the 2 electrical parts are not difficult to remove.
The metal shield holds the pressure solenoid in. Slide the shield forward, off the solenoid and remove it. The solenoid pulls out.
Take a look at this jewel. It is pretty common for the mesh filter to get clogged and cause problems. But these are not serviceable, just replace it.
The sensor is held in place with a spring keeper. Pop it out with a thin flat blade screwdriver. The sensor pulls out of the side.
Be sure that the new solenoid and sensor are lubed with fluid (o-rings) before they are reinstalled in the governor body.
As a rule these are replaced in pairs. Even if the trouble code says sensor problem, or solenoid problem, replace them at the same time!
As a rule these are replaced in pairs. Even if the trouble code says sensor problem, or solenoid problem, replace them at the same time!
Install your new parts and reinstall the governor body just like it all came apart. Hopefully you are replacing the filter also aren’t you?? Get a filter kit with a RUBBER pan gasket, not cork. The rubber is reusable.
It should take you 3 to 4 quarts of ATF+4. ATF+3 has been discontinued because ATF+4 exceeds its ratings. If all you have is ATF+3 you are OK. DO NOT put anything else into you transmissions. DEXRON of any type is NOT compatible with Chrysler 4-speed automatics!!! It is a MYTH that it ever was.
Disconnect and reconnect your battery so the TCM starts with default settings for the new parts. If the problem was the sensor and solenoid you should see a night and day difference in how your tranny shifts.
If you can get both parts from a distributor you can probably do this fix for under $100. But if you have to resort to buying these from a dealership expect them to be in the neighborhood of $120 each. Good Luck!
It should take you 3 to 4 quarts of ATF+4. ATF+3 has been discontinued because ATF+4 exceeds its ratings. If all you have is ATF+3 you are OK. DO NOT put anything else into you transmissions. DEXRON of any type is NOT compatible with Chrysler 4-speed automatics!!! It is a MYTH that it ever was.
Disconnect and reconnect your battery so the TCM starts with default settings for the new parts. If the problem was the sensor and solenoid you should see a night and day difference in how your tranny shifts.
If you can get both parts from a distributor you can probably do this fix for under $100. But if you have to resort to buying these from a dealership expect them to be in the neighborhood of $120 each. Good Luck!
Additional notes:
There have been cases when all indications point to problems with the solenoid and sensor. But if you have a bad TCM or a bad wiring harness either external or internal to the transmission you can have the exact same symptoms and the procedure in this write-up will not fix the problem. You may want to be proactive when you purchase the parts for this fix. The internal wiring harness includes the overdrive and converter clutch lockup solenoids. You may want to replace ALL the electrical parts at the same time just to save yourself the hassle of cracking the transmission open again. (One fluid bath is enough!)
There have been cases when all indications point to problems with the solenoid and sensor. But if you have a bad TCM or a bad wiring harness either external or internal to the transmission you can have the exact same symptoms and the procedure in this write-up will not fix the problem. You may want to be proactive when you purchase the parts for this fix. The internal wiring harness includes the overdrive and converter clutch lockup solenoids. You may want to replace ALL the electrical parts at the same time just to save yourself the hassle of cracking the transmission open again. (One fluid bath is enough!)
This is an updated version of this write-up. Only sight changes have been made to put more emphasis on important points.
Man I love this group and being to edit out a mistake I made after a post.
Last edited by jamaicanmecrazy; 10-07-2008 at 01:41 PM. Reason: I copy and pasted a post and at the bottom there were links to another group.
#13
Old fart with a wrench
I'm going to ask this question but it sounds silly. You did check the fluid level in NEUTRAL, right?
#14
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L V8
I'll just tag along to this thread. When I first hop in my Jeep after it sits for a couple hours, put it into drive and accelerate, it revs up pretty loud before dropping into second gear and then it will shift a little rough between every gear.
I have a 4-Spd. Automatic 4RE Transmission with the NP 249/NV 249 (Quadra-Trac) with a Dana 30 in the front and a Dana 44 in the rear (I only mention all this in case there is any common issues with these that I couldn't find on Google).
I have a 4-Spd. Automatic 4RE Transmission with the NP 249/NV 249 (Quadra-Trac) with a Dana 30 in the front and a Dana 44 in the rear (I only mention all this in case there is any common issues with these that I couldn't find on Google).
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
I have a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo quadratrac auto
we we had the radiator replaced 8/11/17 and then in 17/11/17 was driving and it wouldn't change gears it was at 3000 rpm and so took foot off gas and hit the brakes and it clunked down into the gear it needed and hasn't really done it since
yesterday drove to the shops 10 minutes from home and was fine sluggish but changed fine up and down on the way home as soon as I reversed out of the car park I noticed it wouldn't changed gears I would have to get the car up to at least 2500-3000 rpm and take my foot off the gas for it to drop into the next gear
today we clean the iac and cleaned under the car I took it for a drive down the road and now won't change gears from 1,2,3 or into drive without high revs I haven't tried driving it manually changing the gears as I drive
can anyone give me any advise on what it is or what I can do should I just take it to a tranny shop and hope to god it's not a new transmission or a rebuild any help would be appreciated
we we had the radiator replaced 8/11/17 and then in 17/11/17 was driving and it wouldn't change gears it was at 3000 rpm and so took foot off gas and hit the brakes and it clunked down into the gear it needed and hasn't really done it since
yesterday drove to the shops 10 minutes from home and was fine sluggish but changed fine up and down on the way home as soon as I reversed out of the car park I noticed it wouldn't changed gears I would have to get the car up to at least 2500-3000 rpm and take my foot off the gas for it to drop into the next gear
today we clean the iac and cleaned under the car I took it for a drive down the road and now won't change gears from 1,2,3 or into drive without high revs I haven't tried driving it manually changing the gears as I drive
can anyone give me any advise on what it is or what I can do should I just take it to a tranny shop and hope to god it's not a new transmission or a rebuild any help would be appreciated