Weird Brake Issue
02-20-2011, 09:59 PM
#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The brake lines arent made of copper but there is copper content in the metals used in the brake system (copper brazing). Copper is the metal that will corrode first in brake fluid and thats probably why they test for copper. Have you ever noticed old brake fluid having a greenish tint to it, thats copper.
Another major contamination to brake fluid is water. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will absorb moisture from air that gets in through the vented cap.
Not that I condone most of these places practices for generating revenue, basically because I cannot trust that they would do the brake fluid flush properly. I will say that brake fluid is probably one of the most neglected fluids as far a maintenance. I would at least try to flush and bleed the system out every 1-2 years or even during brake pad replacement.
You can also test your brake fluid with a Digital Multi Meter. Hook the negative lead to the neg battery post and stick the positive lead down into your brake fluid. Any reading over 0.30 volts is an indication that the fluid needs to be changed.
Another major contamination to brake fluid is water. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will absorb moisture from air that gets in through the vented cap.
Not that I condone most of these places practices for generating revenue, basically because I cannot trust that they would do the brake fluid flush properly. I will say that brake fluid is probably one of the most neglected fluids as far a maintenance. I would at least try to flush and bleed the system out every 1-2 years or even during brake pad replacement.
You can also test your brake fluid with a Digital Multi Meter. Hook the negative lead to the neg battery post and stick the positive lead down into your brake fluid. Any reading over 0.30 volts is an indication that the fluid needs to be changed.
02-21-2011, 07:53 AM
#18
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yep, special order. I never go to NAPA though, so damn expensive. They want $85 + core (not that core matters) for a reman, everyone else wants $50-$60.
When my pickup coil went they told me i have to buy a whole distributor, the guy actually argued with me.
I always go to Pep Boys, the crew here is solid and they always get me what i need at a great price.
When my pickup coil went they told me i have to buy a whole distributor, the guy actually argued with me.
I always go to Pep Boys, the crew here is solid and they always get me what i need at a great price.
02-22-2011, 04:48 PM
#19
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Be in at Pep Boys tomorrow. Any advice before i dive into this? I have my repair manual and it says i have to bench bleed the new master cylinder, but i don't recall having ever doing that before...
02-22-2011, 04:58 PM
#20
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
also i got no spare cash with my upcoming move and i haven't owned flare wrenches in forever, any tips for using regular tools on my brake lines?
02-23-2011, 03:04 PM
#22
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Let me start with this: i have exhausted my available funds. damn bills, stupid jeep.
Oooook so i screwed up a bit lol. I forgot to cap the ends when i took the lines off the master cylinder, and then when installing the new master cylinder i broke the little barb off the bleeder kit that came with it.
And also i somehow forgot that i need two people to bleed the brakes, which i don't have.
So now i am wondering how do i bleed the master cylinder (my only option is on the vehicle) now that i broke the kit?
Do i have to bleed my brakes in any specific order?
Can i bleed them solo?
And anything else i may be missing......ugh
Oooook so i screwed up a bit lol. I forgot to cap the ends when i took the lines off the master cylinder, and then when installing the new master cylinder i broke the little barb off the bleeder kit that came with it.
And also i somehow forgot that i need two people to bleed the brakes, which i don't have.
So now i am wondering how do i bleed the master cylinder (my only option is on the vehicle) now that i broke the kit?
Do i have to bleed my brakes in any specific order?
Can i bleed them solo?
And anything else i may be missing......ugh
02-23-2011, 03:21 PM
#23
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Fill the master up with fluid, then chuck it up in a vise, put you fingers over the holes for the fittings, use a screw driver and push in on the rear of the master cylinder. When the piston bottoms out, tightly hold your fingers over the holes so no air gets sucked in. Do that until you're sure there is no air. It will be messy, but it works. Install the master on the vehicle and have a helper push down on the brake pedal, crack the lines loose at the master cylinder just enough for fluid to escape, do not let up on the pedal until the lines are tight. Do that a few times and see how the pedal feels. Do not get brake fluid on the paint, it will destroy a paint job in a hurry.
If you need to bleed each wheel, just use a piece of vacuum hose on the bleeder screw, make sure it fits tight. Now put the free end of the hose in a container of clean brake fluid. Open the bleeder screw and pump the pedal slowly about five times. Make sure the master does not go empty, do that at each wheel until you get a nice feeling pedal.
If you need to bleed each wheel, just use a piece of vacuum hose on the bleeder screw, make sure it fits tight. Now put the free end of the hose in a container of clean brake fluid. Open the bleeder screw and pump the pedal slowly about five times. Make sure the master does not go empty, do that at each wheel until you get a nice feeling pedal.
02-23-2011, 03:38 PM
#24
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No vise, got to do the MS on the jeep.
Great tip with the vac line and the bleeder, did not think of that. So i just leave the bleeder loose and keep pumping the brake, and tighten the bleeder when done?
Great tip with the vac line and the bleeder, did not think of that. So i just leave the bleeder loose and keep pumping the brake, and tighten the bleeder when done?
02-23-2011, 04:48 PM
#25
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Yep. Just make sure the end of the hose is in the clean brake fluid so air does not get sucked back in.
02-23-2011, 05:07 PM
#26
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Year: 1993
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Can i just assemble the system, fill it up, and bleed it in that manner to get all the air out of the MS as well?
02-23-2011, 07:21 PM
#27
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Fill the master up and let it sit for a little while before installing it. That will help getting the air out.
02-24-2011, 01:07 AM
#29
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Year: 95
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Many ways to do the bleed procedure, like mentioned above and you can also get a vacuum pump kit with the little bottle and draw the fluid through the bleeders into the bottle using the pump. (vacuum pump is also good for other things like on the HVAC, and at least for a vac guage if ever needed. )
You can jam a prybar or stick of proper size between the seat and brake pedal to hold it down. This method can work for a one person job, but sucks for time consumption.
Talk the next door neighbors kid into helping you out ( I prefer the hot chick next door that loves Jeeps, mud and me)
You can jam a prybar or stick of proper size between the seat and brake pedal to hold it down. This method can work for a one person job, but sucks for time consumption.
Talk the next door neighbors kid into helping you out ( I prefer the hot chick next door that loves Jeeps, mud and me)
02-24-2011, 10:04 AM
#30
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Year: 1993
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God forbid my other half comes home while i have our one neighbor cranking my valves LOL
Right now the MS is all bolted up and hooked up. Got it filled up and letting the bubbles make their way through. Then i gotta jack her up and get started. Got the vac line a bucket and a ton of fluid so hopefully it all works out
Right now the MS is all bolted up and hooked up. Got it filled up and letting the bubbles make their way through. Then i gotta jack her up and get started. Got the vac line a bucket and a ton of fluid so hopefully it all works out