what lift needed for 35's on stock grande cherokee
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl 4.0
what lift needed for 35's on stock grande cherokee
I have a 95 grande Cherokee that has 31's on it now. But i am planning on putting a lift on it in January and i was going to put 33's on it but now I am considering 35's. It is a 6 cyl 4.0 engine and It is my daily driver and I am not going to be rock climbing or doing to much real extreme off roading just mudding and having fun. well for now at least. So I am looking for advice on what kind of lift i should get to make it great off road and on. Any advice is appreciated thanks.
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Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
if you got the money for it i would get a 5.5 long arm kit check out IronRockOffroad.com or rustys, might need some heavy duty axles for those 35's too, really depends on how much you want to spend
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0
Generally you open a whole new can of worms when you go from running 33's to 35's.
Like the previous poster said one big issue are the Axles, the Dana 30 in front and especially if you have a Dana 35 in back are not up to the task of 35's
Gearing starts to become an issue once you get to 35's
Driveshaft angles start to become an issue - so you start needing SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" and different driveshafts.
Unless you are really committed to running 35's I would look at going with 33's.
With that said if you do want 35's you need 5-6" of lift, which I think then pretty much moves you from using Short "Control" Arms to Long "Control" Arms (the tubes that go from the frame to axles) which moves your lift prices from starting at $400 to starting at $1500 - plus the cost of tires really jump up, then you tend to be chasing down driveline vibrations, steering issues, etc.
I had a TJ with 35's and didn't particularly like it, now I either want to go smaller to be more stable (like 33's) or bigger to be able to get more nuts in the deep mud (like 42's) but first I need to decide what platform to build on this time. I just bought (2) WJs and so far I am not liking them, I did not like the Wrangler when mudding as you have no locked storage, I hated soft top windows, and usually wheeled with no top and FILLED the inside with mud, I miss my XJ the most (I have had CJ5 CJ7 YJ XJ TJ WJ and an old Wagoneer)
Bryan
Like the previous poster said one big issue are the Axles, the Dana 30 in front and especially if you have a Dana 35 in back are not up to the task of 35's
Gearing starts to become an issue once you get to 35's
Driveshaft angles start to become an issue - so you start needing SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" and different driveshafts.
Unless you are really committed to running 35's I would look at going with 33's.
With that said if you do want 35's you need 5-6" of lift, which I think then pretty much moves you from using Short "Control" Arms to Long "Control" Arms (the tubes that go from the frame to axles) which moves your lift prices from starting at $400 to starting at $1500 - plus the cost of tires really jump up, then you tend to be chasing down driveline vibrations, steering issues, etc.
I had a TJ with 35's and didn't particularly like it, now I either want to go smaller to be more stable (like 33's) or bigger to be able to get more nuts in the deep mud (like 42's) but first I need to decide what platform to build on this time. I just bought (2) WJs and so far I am not liking them, I did not like the Wrangler when mudding as you have no locked storage, I hated soft top windows, and usually wheeled with no top and FILLED the inside with mud, I miss my XJ the most (I have had CJ5 CJ7 YJ XJ TJ WJ and an old Wagoneer)
Bryan
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Year: 1997
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you will need 4.5" of lift at least, and major trimming. long arms preferably. gearing, sye. beefed up steering (35s will kill your gear box).. will wear down your brakes alot faster.
i had a 94 zj on 4.5" front and rear long arms and 35s. did everything i told you.
i sold it. hated driving it on the street.
i had a 94 zj on 4.5" front and rear long arms and 35s. did everything i told you.
i sold it. hated driving it on the street.
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Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L V-8
Hope u have a big wallet
If you wanting to fit 35" your probably gonna need a 6.5" long arm kit. And if you have a 4.0L u probably have a D35 rear and a D30 front and those arent gonna be able to handle 35's. You would need at least D44's. Ive got a D44 rear and a d35 front and im only runnning 33's So unless your looking to spend like $4,500, i would just stick to 33's
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 CYL
If you wanting to fit 35" your probably gonna need a 6.5" long arm kit. And if you have a 4.0L u probably have a D35 rear and a D30 front and those arent gonna be able to handle 35's. You would need at least D44's. Ive got a D44 rear and a d35 front and im only runnning 33's So unless your looking to spend like $4,500, i would just stick to 33's
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Year: 1997
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agreed. my zj still had the cv axles on the d30, and a d35 in back. granted, both axles had detroits which replaced the carrier and made them stronger, but i wheeled the jeep pretty hard and never broke anything.
still, for 35s, be prepared to invest a lot of coin.
still, for 35s, be prepared to invest a lot of coin.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 CYL
That can be very true as JEEP does stand for "Just Empty Every Pocket". But if the OP does do short arm i would recommend all adjustable arms if it has coils all the way around so the tires can be centered in the wheel well. I dont remember which years had it but i have seen a couple that had leafs in the rear like the xj but not many.
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Year: 1998
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Keep in mind those stating the D30 will hold up.... XJ and ZJ's both have HP (High Pinion) Dana 30's I believe (with a few exceptions), and the HP's are about 20-30% stronger than the WJ Low Pinions from what I understand.
I wheeled my 35's on my TJ on LP D30 and it held up.... but it is pushing the limit !!!!! even on a HP its pushing the limit.
Over the years I have pushed many cars to do more than they should, like driving a hammering rod knock Chevy 500 miles home, or an Audi with no clutch 300+ miles home, but just because you have or can does not mean you should.
But I also understand that it may help to let the person know you have gotten away with it so they may be OK trying.
Bryan
I wheeled my 35's on my TJ on LP D30 and it held up.... but it is pushing the limit !!!!! even on a HP its pushing the limit.
Over the years I have pushed many cars to do more than they should, like driving a hammering rod knock Chevy 500 miles home, or an Audi with no clutch 300+ miles home, but just because you have or can does not mean you should.
But I also understand that it may help to let the person know you have gotten away with it so they may be OK trying.
Bryan
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 CYL
Keep in mind those stating the D30 will hold up.... XJ and ZJ's both have HP (High Pinion) Dana 30's I believe (with a few exceptions), and the HP's are about 20-30% stronger than the WJ Low Pinions from what I understand.
I wheeled my 35's on my TJ on LP D30 and it held up.... but it is pushing the limit !!!!! even on a HP its pushing the limit.
Over the years I have pushed many cars to do more than they should, like driving a hammering rod knock Chevy 500 miles home, or an Audi with no clutch 300+ miles home, but just because you have or can does not mean you should.
But I also understand that it may help to let the person know you have gotten away with it so they may be OK trying.
Bryan
I wheeled my 35's on my TJ on LP D30 and it held up.... but it is pushing the limit !!!!! even on a HP its pushing the limit.
Over the years I have pushed many cars to do more than they should, like driving a hammering rod knock Chevy 500 miles home, or an Audi with no clutch 300+ miles home, but just because you have or can does not mean you should.
But I also understand that it may help to let the person know you have gotten away with it so they may be OK trying.
Bryan
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Year: 1997
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Please post up info on this.
This is from wiki:
Suspension
The Quadra-Coil suspension was standard and featured a solid axle multi-link coil spring design. By allowing the locating arms to positively control axle positions the handling attributes were improved. The rear suspension has 4 trailing arms with two coil springs per side. Like its XJ counterpart, the Quadra-Link front suspension was carried over.
An available "Up Country" package was offered. The suspension package included heavier duty German made gas charged shocks installed upside down, taller coil springs and longer bump stops. Ground clearance was increased by one inch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 CYL
never ever heard of that before. i know the 93s (first year) came w/a manual tranny or the AW4 auto like the xj, but not w/leafs.
Please post up info on this.
This is from wiki:
Suspension
The Quadra-Coil suspension was standard and featured a solid axle multi-link coil spring design. By allowing the locating arms to positively control axle positions the handling attributes were improved. The rear suspension has 4 trailing arms with two coil springs per side. Like its XJ counterpart, the Quadra-Link front suspension was carried over.
An available "Up Country" package was offered. The suspension package included heavier duty German made gas charged shocks installed upside down, taller coil springs and longer bump stops. Ground clearance was increased by one inch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee
Please post up info on this.
This is from wiki:
Suspension
The Quadra-Coil suspension was standard and featured a solid axle multi-link coil spring design. By allowing the locating arms to positively control axle positions the handling attributes were improved. The rear suspension has 4 trailing arms with two coil springs per side. Like its XJ counterpart, the Quadra-Link front suspension was carried over.
An available "Up Country" package was offered. The suspension package included heavier duty German made gas charged shocks installed upside down, taller coil springs and longer bump stops. Ground clearance was increased by one inch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee