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$7 Disconnects

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Old 10-24-2010 | 08:09 AM
  #61  
Skunkape's Avatar
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From: Maryville Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Originally Posted by SWC custom
i just took the nut off and cut the heads off and cut the bushings off my rear one that was already out and then put that on with some washers and used the impact gun to run the nut back on and it pulled the bolt right threw and out the other side simple!! and quick the longest was taking the nut back off and cutting the head off the bolt!! but it worked like a charm!!
That is an awsome idea!Wish I would have thought about that,that woulda been to easy though!lol
Old 10-24-2010 | 08:32 AM
  #62  
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From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
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I don't like the pin idea mainly because I always think of what could happen. What I plan to do is take out that pressed in bolt and put a regular bolt in it's place. I'll still have to have a ratchet to disconnect but I won't have the hassel of trying to get the sway bar off that pressed in bolt. This way I'll get a easier disconnect and I'll still have a tight fit on my link's.
Old 10-26-2010 | 10:10 PM
  #63  
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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Now on this set up isn't everything more likely to break? I'm thinking about doing this. But I want as strong of hold as I can get on the sway bar. With the pin and everything in there wouldn't it wear fast?
Old 11-18-2010 | 04:13 AM
  #64  
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From: Ridgecrest California
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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its been mentioned before in the thread but the ring ping type are a must... i used the hair pin clips for a few months and they just bent over, still held but were pretty bent and could not be reused, the ring pins are a lot stronger (and quieter) just my 2cents but over all great and cheap mod oh yeah and if u need rubber spacers between washers to quiet chatter, o rings from garden hoses work PERFECT lol!
Old 11-18-2010 | 05:04 PM
  #65  
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From: Albuquerque
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by wildspear
I don't like the pin idea mainly because I always think of what could happen. What I plan to do is take out that pressed in bolt and put a regular bolt in it's place. I'll still have to have a ratchet to disconnect but I won't have the hassel of trying to get the sway bar off that pressed in bolt. This way I'll get a easier disconnect and I'll still have a tight fit on my link's.
That's exactly what i was planning on doing! I don't mind having to use a ratchet to remove the sway bar.
Old 11-18-2010 | 05:21 PM
  #66  
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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Ok so the ring pins are a lot stronger?
Old 01-16-2011 | 11:02 PM
  #67  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by wildspear
I don't like the pin idea mainly because I always think of what could happen. What I plan to do is take out that pressed in bolt and put a regular bolt in it's place. I'll still have to have a ratchet to disconnect but I won't have the hassel of trying to get the sway bar off that pressed in bolt. This way I'll get a easier disconnect and I'll still have a tight fit on my link's.
yea couldnt you use a regular bolt with a lock washer and a wing nut? that way you dont have to take it off with a ratchet but still have the tight fit and also be able just to spin the wing nut off. it sounds like a good idea to me, any objections?
Old 01-17-2011 | 12:17 AM
  #68  
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From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I did the same thing to mine but put the pins on the upper eyelets of the swaybar links. I'ts a lot stronger doing it on the upper eyelets since the pins are being supported from each side from the sway bar connections instead of only being supported on the outside of each link on the lower mounts.
Old 01-17-2011 | 12:27 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by blank87
I did the same thing to mine but put the pins on the upper eyelets of the swaybar links. I'ts a lot stronger doing it on the upper eyelets since the pins are being supported from each side from the sway bar connections instead of only being supported on the outside of each link on the lower mounts.
Would you possibly have a pic of what you mean? I think Ik what your talking abound but I'm just curious if you would.
Old 01-17-2011 | 12:41 AM
  #70  
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From: Vail, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Jeep95
Would you possibly have a pic of what you mean? I think Ik what your talking abound but I'm just curious if you would.
This is a write up that I did on my set up 2 years ago.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/5-q...-set-up-13909/
Old 01-17-2011 | 12:47 AM
  #71  
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Year: 1995
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Alright sweet. Thanks.
Old 01-25-2011 | 11:02 AM
  #72  
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You could probably grind the original stud collar down where it press fits into the bracket and drill a hole on the opposite end so you can put a washer and a pin in. Probably would be a ***** to drill a hole in the hardened stud though........
Old 04-05-2011 | 12:42 PM
  #73  
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From: Austin texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I had to use 1/2 inch pins, the 7/8s had more play than i wanted. The 1/2 inch fit perfectly, no play, but no grinding was needed. I also used the 2.5 inch long pins so that i could use rubber washers and grade 8 washers to keep it quiet and take up any slack. Everything fits nice and snug, no play or noise. Driven a good 5000 miles since doing this and the head looks the same as it did when i first put them on.
Old 04-12-2011 | 08:21 PM
  #74  
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From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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i just wanted to add that you only have to disconnect one side to get the benifit of discos i used to pull 1 link clear off and it flexed like heck sure the bar went up and down but it hurt nothing
Old 04-14-2011 | 11:16 PM
  #75  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I did this on mine and when taking the studs out if u cut an x in the head of it with an angle grinder and break the little chunks off it comes out pretty easy


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