affordable pipe bender
#1
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affordable pipe bender
i came across this i always thought if you wanted a pipe bender you would be spending some serious money, this might be a dumb queston but can this thing handle bending tubing for bumpers, cages, etc. ? it says that it is rated for 1/2'' to 3'' diameter, if this is true then i should probably buy it and get to work huh?
#2
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i think from looking around a little bit there is apparently a big difference between "pipe" and "tube" and this is a pipe bender so i'm guess i'm totally wrong.
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my mistake i thought i i put it in there the right way [URL="http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200365072_200365072"] and if that doesn't work here is a strait copy and paste. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200365072_200365072
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Thats kinnda pricey i believe. I think it was FrankZ that had a link to plans for a build it yourself bender that is cost effective. Maybe he will chime in here...
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Thats a gas "pipe" bender. Keep in mind that pipe has a different OD than tube. Heres one for less http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=97468
You will be pretty limited on the bends you can make with it as it will start to kink your bend. You will never get a 45 degree bend or greater without kinking unless you pack and cap it with sand first.
These are one of the best benders you can get for the money. Build a complete tubed buggy with em if you want.
http://www.mtechsupply.com/
You will be pretty limited on the bends you can make with it as it will start to kink your bend. You will never get a 45 degree bend or greater without kinking unless you pack and cap it with sand first.
These are one of the best benders you can get for the money. Build a complete tubed buggy with em if you want.
http://www.mtechsupply.com/
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You want something like trick tools offers, or protools.
here is a link to the protools 105hd.
http://www.crawltech.com/tools-107/t...ender-310.html
Keep in mind that is just the bender with no diers or stand. add another 250+ for the die. You can build your own stand.
here is a link to the protools 105hd.
http://www.crawltech.com/tools-107/t...ender-310.html
Keep in mind that is just the bender with no diers or stand. add another 250+ for the die. You can build your own stand.
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I've been looking at this 12 ton tube bender, & am wondering if it will be strong enough to bend the tube needed for bumpers, sliders, & cage. ofcourse it will be easier on a 16 ton bender, but is it worth the extra $90?!?!
12 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32888
16 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=97468
12 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32888
16 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=97468
#11
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Here is some good info on "Pipe" in comparison to "tube". Please note that this is not my information, I am just copying and pasting it from www.greatlakes4x4.com, author Haggar.
"OK, since I do work on my truck with pipe, thought I'd post a little info.
Pipe is Pipe and Tube is Tube, they are different.
Tube is measured by outside diameter and wall thickness.
Pipe is 'measured' by inside diameter and schedule (wall thickness)
However, pipe is still a standard OD, and the ID varies based on the schedule. So for a 1-1/4" pipe, the OD is 1.66". Schedule 80 would have a smaller ID than Schedule 40...etc..
There's a lot of misinfo about pipe, people thinking its brittle, weak, etc. Not really true. There are a lot of different types of pipe, just like there are lots of types of tube. So getting the right material, no matter what you do, is the key to getting strong material. You will find plenty of circle track cars with pipe-built roll cages, which are going to have higher impact forces than on most any 4x4.
There are lots of types of pipe out there. Going to the home depot and buying a 10 chunk of pipe you don't know what you are getting, and its propably crap. Some types of pipe might be butt welded, so there are butt seams in the pipe that may be weak. Some types might be a weaker iron that leads people to think of the pipes being brittle.
A common one used in building cages is ASTM A53 type S grade B.
This is a carbon steel pipe, with a yield strength of 35,000 psi, and tensile strength of 60,000 psi.
I personally use ASTM A500 grade B, which is a carbon steel pipe known as structural tubing. The A500 standard actually covers both rounds and shapes such as sqaure tubing, and is often what you are buying when you buy square & rectangle tube. It is known as tubing although the rounds are available in pipe sizes. It is specifically designed for use in structural applications, and not going to be brittle or weak like people think. Min yield strength is 42,000 psi, tensile strength is 58,000 psi.
For most roll bars, bumpers, sliders, etc, 1-1/4" schedule 40 makes a nice size. That is a 1.66" OD, with a wall thickness of 0.140". Currently, a 21 ft stick of A500b 1-1/4" sch 40 runs about $35 at Pontiac Steel.
I am using 2-1/2" sch 40 for my rear driveshaft, as well."
"OK, since I do work on my truck with pipe, thought I'd post a little info.
Pipe is Pipe and Tube is Tube, they are different.
Tube is measured by outside diameter and wall thickness.
Pipe is 'measured' by inside diameter and schedule (wall thickness)
However, pipe is still a standard OD, and the ID varies based on the schedule. So for a 1-1/4" pipe, the OD is 1.66". Schedule 80 would have a smaller ID than Schedule 40...etc..
There's a lot of misinfo about pipe, people thinking its brittle, weak, etc. Not really true. There are a lot of different types of pipe, just like there are lots of types of tube. So getting the right material, no matter what you do, is the key to getting strong material. You will find plenty of circle track cars with pipe-built roll cages, which are going to have higher impact forces than on most any 4x4.
There are lots of types of pipe out there. Going to the home depot and buying a 10 chunk of pipe you don't know what you are getting, and its propably crap. Some types of pipe might be butt welded, so there are butt seams in the pipe that may be weak. Some types might be a weaker iron that leads people to think of the pipes being brittle.
A common one used in building cages is ASTM A53 type S grade B.
This is a carbon steel pipe, with a yield strength of 35,000 psi, and tensile strength of 60,000 psi.
I personally use ASTM A500 grade B, which is a carbon steel pipe known as structural tubing. The A500 standard actually covers both rounds and shapes such as sqaure tubing, and is often what you are buying when you buy square & rectangle tube. It is known as tubing although the rounds are available in pipe sizes. It is specifically designed for use in structural applications, and not going to be brittle or weak like people think. Min yield strength is 42,000 psi, tensile strength is 58,000 psi.
For most roll bars, bumpers, sliders, etc, 1-1/4" schedule 40 makes a nice size. That is a 1.66" OD, with a wall thickness of 0.140". Currently, a 21 ft stick of A500b 1-1/4" sch 40 runs about $35 at Pontiac Steel.
I am using 2-1/2" sch 40 for my rear driveshaft, as well."
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2" is quite large, what do you plan on making? I have the 12 ton and it will bend 1.25" sch. 40 to 90*, it takes some pumping but its not too bad. I'd recommend the 16 ton for 2".
#14
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I've been looking at this 12 ton tube bender, & am wondering if it will be strong enough to bend the tube needed for bumpers, sliders, & cage. ofcourse it will be easier on a 16 ton bender, but is it worth the extra $90?!?!
12 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32888
16 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=97468
12 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32888
16 ton- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=97468
#15
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