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bent frame

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Old 05-09-2013 | 08:06 PM
  #16  
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You need to pull on the frame rails to relieve the stress. Such as a damage dozier/Porto pull bar, or even a high lift jack. The problem is tying down the car to pull the damage. As your pulling you then can go in with a hammer and begin hitting on and around The area. Might have to drill a hole above the rail so you can reach in and help remove the creases. If yo have any friends with body experience it would help loads. I was a body/ frame man for about 15 years.
Old 05-09-2013 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by weeder
You can fix it and it can be done. What i would do (and have) is chop that section out. Take a measurement from a good point in front of the bend back to a good point that will be the same on both sides. Either hit a jy or get some 2x4 steel and rebuild it. Then plate the **** out of it and be done. If it has a hitch you might take a great precaution but park the jeep with the e brake engaged and pull the rear back straight with a hi lift, buddies winch, or anything strong enough. If the jeep is in good shape and runs good like you say, id suggest to fix it and be done. Ive replaced my unibody from spring hanger back, after everyone said it wasnt worth it. I figured if anything i could use it as a buggy if it didnt work out. I beat the **** out if to this day and have no cracks, stress marks or anything showing weakness.

It can be done, and if you have the tools id say do it.
I don't personally have the tools but I know people with winches and hi lifts and welder's and all that stuff. If I try to pull it wouldn't I want to take the hitch off? And wouldn't the winch just pull the whole jeep not just the frame? I like the idea of just cutting it all out and replacing it? Should I try pulling first or just cut it up and replace it and be done?

Originally Posted by Bht911sc
You need to pull on the frame rails to relieve the stress. Such as a damage dozier/Porto pull bar, or even a high lift jack. The problem is tying down the car to pull the damage. As your pulling you then can go in with a hammer and begin hitting on and around The area. Might have to drill a hole above the rail so you can reach in and help remove the creases. If yo have any friends with body experience it would help loads. I was a body/ frame man for about 15 years.
Same question as before, how do I keep the while jeep from moving or if I tie the front up then how will it not rip apart? And should I take everything off or leave it how it sits? Would parking the opposite side rear end against a tree work?
Old 05-09-2013 | 08:30 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by KG8893

I don't personally have the tools but I know people with winches and hi lifts and welder's and all that stuff. If I try to pull it wouldn't I want to take the hitch off? And wouldn't the winch just pull the whole jeep not just the frame? I like the idea of just cutting it all out and replacing it? Should I try pulling first or just cut it up and replace it and be done?
Try cutting it out, strapping the jeep to somthin and pulling on it. Uniframes arent that thick so it should pull back straight. Then just patch that area really really good.
Old 05-09-2013 | 08:48 PM
  #19  
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Well, the redneck in me is telling me, to tell you, to wrap a chain around the hitch on the damaged side and hook it to the largest, heaviest, most attached to earth item you can find and give it a couple good yanks... I have fixed worse than that with this technique and would be willing to bet you could get it close. Any pics of the whole rearend?
Old 05-09-2013 | 08:54 PM
  #20  
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Here ya go kevin

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/x...epair-1457745/
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by weeder
Holy lift blocks is right!!

Thanks for those pics though. The only issue now is trying to find a donor frame... I may go the other route you suggested and use 2x4 steel though. I will try and take all my **** off and see what happens when I pull it first.
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:09 PM
  #22  
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Here is the whole rear end.

bent frame-forumrunner_20130509_220852.jpg

Are you guys saying to tie the heep to a tree and drive away essentially?
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by KG8893

Holy lift blocks is right!!

Thanks for those pics though. The only issue now is trying to find a donor frame... I may go the other route you suggested and use 2x4 steel though. I will try and take all my **** off and see what happens when I pull it first.
Yeah its was that guys mud toy, he didnt give a fawk. And yeah hook it to a tree and drive slow and careful lol id strap it more on the right side if you can safely.
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by KG8893

Are you guys saying to tie the heep to a tree and drive away essentially?

pretty much. worst case scenario, you cut it all out and replace as you were planning to anyways.

A Buddy and I did essentially this same thing with a 88 CRX that had spun around backwards into a tree at probably 55-60mph. the drivers side was pushed over almost 2 feet and in almost a foot. We hooked my truck to it and gave it a couple "gentle" yanks and it started unfolding right back into position. Before I got rid of it I had it to the point you could put the bumper, lights, hatch, and windows in and not tell there was a bit of damage.

Did the same thing on the 93 Escort that is now my wife's DD, with some persuasion, the front end came right out and now you cant find any damage.

It's worth a try
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:34 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by weeder
Yeah its was that guys mud toy, he didnt give a fawk. And yeah hook it to a tree and drive slow and careful lol id strap it more on the right side if you can safely.
Glad you said drive slow. I was honestly gonna floor it with a few feet of slack hahaha. I'm gonna take off the hitch and the bumper and hatch before I do it. I figure all they will do is make it harder to pull and harder for the metal to bend back how it needs to be. Plus, I want find a new bumper and hatch.

What do you think of putting it in 4 lo and letting it coast forward while I hit the top of the frame crease with a hammer? Too redneck?
Old 05-09-2013 | 11:13 PM
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It could work, but I would do it on pavement or else you will probably just end up spinning the tires.

I would try it with the hitch on at first though. It is really about your only way of getting a solid pull on that side unless you make a plate to bolt on in place of it
Old 05-10-2013 | 07:07 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DougyFresh
It could work, but I would do it on pavement or else you will probably just end up spinning the tires.

I would try it with the hitch on at first though. It is really about your only way of getting a solid pull on that side unless you make a plate to bolt on in place of it
That is a good point. ****'s thin back there... If it doesn't bend at all I might just cut the thing in half and still use it to pull.
Old 05-10-2013 | 07:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by KG8893
That is a good point. ****'s thin back there... If it doesn't bend at all I might just cut the thing in half and still use it to pull.
Thats what i would do. Try it like it is first, if anything cut it out and try again. I didnt know it was 4wd until this am. When u pull it throw it in 4 low.
Old 05-10-2013 | 01:57 PM
  #29  
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There is a chance that the hitch is twisted, which would essentially make it worthless anyways, and keeping pressure on the unibody. If you do end up cutting it, I would unbolt it on the drivers side first, that way it relieves some of the pressure, then cut it on the passengers side. I would leave about 2 inches of box tube that way you have a greater surface area to pull on.
Old 05-10-2013 | 02:57 PM
  #30  
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That thing is tweaked so many different ways...

IMO, you're wasting your time on a big chunk of plentiful sheet metal but you're going to do it anyways.

Good luck.

You should certainly keep this thread updated as your progress continues.


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