If only it were five foot longer...J/K great build man

 

Used it 3 times and hasn't moved an inch

 

Ok. It's not my rig so all I can do is offer advice.

 

Eh either way i wouldnt want to be around when it rips off and kills somebody. Not being a D**k but....

 

Dude I'm 17 and working on building a bumper at the moment and I'm also short on money, luckily I have just enough scrap metal. Anyway Im using 1/4" steel plate and going almost all the way back to the track bar and using the steering box bolts, stock bumper mounts, sway bar holes and a few others. So in all I will be bolted up to 12 different holes on the side and on the bottom of the uniframe. Sure your bumper can pull a vehicle on flat ground but if you get stuck in mud or sand or whatever your going to be wheeling in I would suggest you should go overkill on your bumper. I once got stuck in a sandy river bed in a foot and a half of water and I was stuck there for a few hours a dodge durango tried to yank me out and failed and I ended up having to be pulled out by my axle by an older GMC suburban lifted like 12 inches on 36" tires with a 10,000 lb winch and he was actually being dragged through the sand while I wasnt budgeing. What Im saying is your bumper may seem strong enough but when it comes to being stuck dont underestimate how much force it takes to actually pull you out sometimes. What I would suggest is build off what you have now and just put a good sized plate of metal on the side of your frame, tie in to your steering box bolts which will strengthen your frame opposite your steering box and put a bolt through any other holes you can use and weld this plate and bolt it to what you have built. And do the same on the other side with whatever bolt holes you can use. I hope you get your bumper fixed up stronger, and happy wheeling dude.

 

That works. four more bolts wouldn't hurt.

 

Could you post a few pics of how you tied in

 

I made mine in my first year of college (FEB.). This is how i tied mine in. hope it helps

 

mine are the same:

 

I would but I have a cuple more plates to cut out and weld for the bottom of the frame. Work is going kinda slow on it but as soon as I get the mounts together Ill post a pic. But its basicly the same as Brookhart63's and 96_xj's

 

I like how these use the seven bolts. My foolish self cut one out for some reason haha

 

Perfect examples of how every recovery type bumper should be tied in!!

 

Any more progress on this ?

 

People can preach to you all day long about bolt holes.. you gotta use this many bolt holes.... The Point that's Not to be forgotten is regardless of weather its bolted/or foolishly fully welded to your frame.. the Principle is distributing the strength along a greater amount of area...

think about it like this. if you take a 5ft pole and bury it maybe 5 inches into the ground... how easy will it be to knock over....

Now take the same 5ft pole but have 3ft of it buried into the ground.... Its not going to be that easy to move... get the picture?

you can keep adding more and more plate to the front 3" of that frame and THINK its gonna hold up but IT WILL in time bend and flex and break. The more area you cover for support the stronger it will be and the longer it will stay straight and true...

maybe look into JCR's front unibody tie-in brackets.. they are only $60
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...ry_Code=XJMISC

 

I think the tie-in opinion has been explained well enough, so I'm gonna hit on that "stinger"

$20 says it folds right over on something you actually need a stinger for. I don't know when it happened, but some how tacking a u-shaped tube on top of a "bumper" labels it a stinger. I call it, exactly what you're currently using it for, a hook rest. If it did some how hold (we'll say its 3/16" wall and passes through that rect. tubing) it's gonna peal those mounts from the front of your uni-body.

"A" for effort : "F" for product quality. sorry bud.