Fabricating Spacers/Baffles for 6.5+ front speakers
#1
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fabricating Spacers/Baffles for 6.5+ front speakers
I'm in the process of installing a set of JL c5-650 components for my front stage on my 2000 Cherokee Sport.
Issues:
The factory cutout in the door "metal" seems to small for the baskets on the JL speakers...as well as some other higher end speakers with good mid bass.
Depth issue:
I will need atleast a 3/4 - 1" spacer to clear to clear the window mechanism
With the mentioned issues. I will have to cut out an opening in the door panel to allow the speakers to fit, using 3/4 inch spacers.
This results in a semi clean look...but not aesthetically refined. This obviously will be determined on how clean your cut out on the door panel is and how nice it lines up with the spacer/speaker.
My solution is to make a baffle to cover the cutout on the door panel. You will have to trim away some extra material on the door panel, as you will notice that it is not completely level or flat. It somewhat rolls or tapers to the factory grill guard. I decided to trim what I needed to get the area to be level.
Also, the door panel isnt completely parallel or level with the back wall of the door....thus the baffle will have to angle to fit flush with the tapering door panel.
I plan on using some sort of bondo or fiberglass to smooth and eventually finish the baffles/spacers.
I'm hoping that these spacers/baffles will allow us to use any 6.5 - 6.75 inch speakers with little to no additional modification....besides the cutout in the door panel. Which should be easy considering that rough cuts will eventually be covered up using the new spacers/baffles.
I will post progress and pics later this afternoon.
Pics of the Door panel:
Pics of MDF pieces cut out. Essentially a 7 inch diameter spacer - 3/4" MDF. The Form or shape of the baffle is 1/4" mdf.
MDF pieces glued together at the set angles and tapers. Angle was set with the spacer mounted to the door to ensure proper fit.
Thinking I will either use cloth/fiberglass for the form or a filler such as bondo hair.
Here are some pics with cloth to show the form if I were to use fiberglass resin.
Issues:
The factory cutout in the door "metal" seems to small for the baskets on the JL speakers...as well as some other higher end speakers with good mid bass.
Depth issue:
I will need atleast a 3/4 - 1" spacer to clear to clear the window mechanism
With the mentioned issues. I will have to cut out an opening in the door panel to allow the speakers to fit, using 3/4 inch spacers.
This results in a semi clean look...but not aesthetically refined. This obviously will be determined on how clean your cut out on the door panel is and how nice it lines up with the spacer/speaker.
My solution is to make a baffle to cover the cutout on the door panel. You will have to trim away some extra material on the door panel, as you will notice that it is not completely level or flat. It somewhat rolls or tapers to the factory grill guard. I decided to trim what I needed to get the area to be level.
Also, the door panel isnt completely parallel or level with the back wall of the door....thus the baffle will have to angle to fit flush with the tapering door panel.
I plan on using some sort of bondo or fiberglass to smooth and eventually finish the baffles/spacers.
I'm hoping that these spacers/baffles will allow us to use any 6.5 - 6.75 inch speakers with little to no additional modification....besides the cutout in the door panel. Which should be easy considering that rough cuts will eventually be covered up using the new spacers/baffles.
I will post progress and pics later this afternoon.
Pics of the Door panel:
Pics of MDF pieces cut out. Essentially a 7 inch diameter spacer - 3/4" MDF. The Form or shape of the baffle is 1/4" mdf.
MDF pieces glued together at the set angles and tapers. Angle was set with the spacer mounted to the door to ensure proper fit.
Thinking I will either use cloth/fiberglass for the form or a filler such as bondo hair.
Here are some pics with cloth to show the form if I were to use fiberglass resin.
Last edited by KChiefin29; 08-06-2013 at 06:20 PM.
#4
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, put in a decent amount of work...more pics and updates in the next post. I decided to use bondo...but will make a fiberglass version as well. I wanted to make use of the original grill guards, as people seem to come awfully close to kicking the speakers every time they get in and out of the car.
For the fiberglassed baffles...I'd try to figure out a way to mount the grill w/o the mounting ring....otherwise it will stick out 2+ inches from the door panel.
For the fiberglassed baffles...I'd try to figure out a way to mount the grill w/o the mounting ring....otherwise it will stick out 2+ inches from the door panel.
Last edited by KChiefin29; 08-07-2013 at 08:13 PM.
#5
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, so this was my first time using bondo "hair" interesting stuff....dries super quick and is not the easiest to spread....but it works.
Once the bondo set...I did quite a bit of sanding. I will admit, I could have put a little more time into sanding and refining things...but hey...it's my first set and figured I'd be doing another, which it can only get better from here.
Some rough/fresh bondo...
I forgot to take pics of it sanded....but here she is with 2 coats of satin black and a coat of clear coat....which If I could do it again...I'd stick with just the black. The clear coat ended up creating a whole new color. I decided to leave it for now...if it bothers me too much, I'll refinish it or make another set.
Here's the spacer/baffle mounted on the passenger side...
speaker in with the mounting ring for the grill guard...
Once the bondo set...I did quite a bit of sanding. I will admit, I could have put a little more time into sanding and refining things...but hey...it's my first set and figured I'd be doing another, which it can only get better from here.
Some rough/fresh bondo...
I forgot to take pics of it sanded....but here she is with 2 coats of satin black and a coat of clear coat....which If I could do it again...I'd stick with just the black. The clear coat ended up creating a whole new color. I decided to leave it for now...if it bothers me too much, I'll refinish it or make another set.
Here's the spacer/baffle mounted on the passenger side...
speaker in with the mounting ring for the grill guard...
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#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 39
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks man....color is not quite what I expected. Will just have to avoid the clear coat next time or use something different. All in all I am happy with the way it turned out.
#9
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Nice job. I've seen worse work come out of "good" audio shops, lol.
Are the rear speakers 6.5"? And did you need the ring for more depth? Or for mounting them? I'm wanting to put 6.5s all around when I do them.
Are the rear speakers 6.5"? And did you need the ring for more depth? Or for mounting them? I'm wanting to put 6.5s all around when I do them.
#10
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yep, the rears are 6.5 as well. I used the rings to mount them/ cover the little slots - where the factory grills pop in. The rings on the back are just 1/4 inch MDF....you shouldn't have any depth issues in the back.
Ha...the hardest part back there was getting the speaker wire tucked away.
Amp is under the rear seats....small 5 channel.
#12
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The JL C5's are pretty decent speakers...I was back and forth between these and a set of focal or rainbow speakers.
The midbass on these surprised me...Huge difference in this area with and without dynamat.
Overall they are pretty smooth and natural. I felt the focal tweeters were a bit too bright...though that can be tuned out....didn't get a chance to hear the rainbows.
I tend to prefer Silk Dome tweeters, but I just got a set of Polk SR6500, which are more directional, for my other vehicle.
All the speakers are getting 100 watts on high pass @ 75 hz
slight overlap with the sub...500 watts on low pass @ 80 hz...to help blend better with front stage.
Tweeters are mounted via factory corner trim and I used the pods that came with the JL speakers. I originally purchased a set of the factory "infinity" tweeter pods...but decided it wasn't worth messing with it.
Last edited by KChiefin29; 08-09-2013 at 01:15 PM.
#13
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Had someone inquire about a set of baffles/spacers. I may consider if I can find a couple more people that are interested.
This will require you to cut your door panels and drill 2 holes. Overall it is a pretty simple/clean install.
PM me for more info.
This will require you to cut your door panels and drill 2 holes. Overall it is a pretty simple/clean install.
PM me for more info.
#15
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: MIDWEST
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, so I have a few people interested now. Supplies will cost around 25-30 dollars each set for the mdf, bondo, glue, sand paper, primer, and paint. I would probably need about a week of turn around time. As far as price goes...I was thinking in the neighborhood of 100-120 shipped per set as these require a fair amount of work...a lot of sanding and prep. Let me know if that sounds fair to everyone.
I have never priced custom baffles before but I usually see them go for around 150 - 200 for a custom set made for your vehicle. I do want to be reasonable and fair for all involved.
As far as fitment goes, the angles on the baffles are set to mount flush for 97+ door panels. I will include the necessary hardware as well, which are 4 screws, washers and nuts. I will message everyone individually to get specifics or changes they may want me to consider.
I have never priced custom baffles before but I usually see them go for around 150 - 200 for a custom set made for your vehicle. I do want to be reasonable and fair for all involved.
As far as fitment goes, the angles on the baffles are set to mount flush for 97+ door panels. I will include the necessary hardware as well, which are 4 screws, washers and nuts. I will message everyone individually to get specifics or changes they may want me to consider.