Half Doors with canvas windows. 2 Door.
05-11-2010 | 11:47 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 2
From: Here, no there, I don't know.
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
2 Door half door and window build, part 2. Lots of pics.
Link to part 1
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...art-1-a-47261/
This is part 2
Now the door handle.
It is in the stock location, but I cut it off about 1 1/4" from the push button.
This means you have lost the second bolt that holds it on.
I made a little L shaped tab, that is secured under the screw that holds the plunger in the handle.
This is on the back side of the handle on the front edge.
This allows me to tilt the front edge of the handle in and have this tab go behind the sheet metal of the outer skin.
Then just install the bolt on the remaining factory stud and the handle is done.
This is not difficult but it is very fiddly, you are dealing with tight spaces and the rods don't make the hadle very moveable.
Now bondo and paint.
I used very little bondo because I was somewhat patient and slow with my welding and grinding.
This keeps the heat and warping down, but there is bondo around the edge of the opening.
I used flexible sealer, body shop caulk, to seal the edge of the U channel and door frame.
This can just be painted over.
The bottom edges of my doors already had Line-X on them so I only painted inside and up to the edge of the Line-X.
Now the question, why not remove the dents ?
Well they are where the door beam is so no wany to do the body work without removing the beam.
The metal is so streached it will not shrink back.
They are from Tellico Lower # 2, If it remains closed by the Feds, no way to go back and get some more.
Chicks dig dents and scars !
Door panel was made from 1/8" masonite board, grill for the speaker is from the original panel.
I used vinyl and carpet from the local Automotive fabric supply.
I added some extra padding on the top of the door panel to act as an armrest.
The top panel is sewn onto the door panel and acts like a flap, it is held down with Velcro.
The window are BMW convertible top material, It is lined and has a waterfroof membrane, not cheap.
I think it was ~ $ 30 a Yard, window material is also convertible top clear plastic.
I also applied a ribbon called Binding around the edges of the window and openings in the top material.
The top material probably would not fray or unravel because of the membrane but the binding gives it I finished look.
I decided to make the plastic window the full size of the pattern, I aslo decided to put the black top material on both sides.
This makes the windows 3 layers thick and fairly stiff, they pass the 70 mile an hour test.
The window clips around the edge of the door frame using a plastic J clip.
This is also available through specialty automotive trim suppliers.
You just hold the window on the frame pull down while guiding the clip to grab the edge of the frame and then snap the 5 snaps along the bottom edge, this requires alot of stretching in cool weather, I use a vice grip as a handle.
The seperate lower window was in case I had to add a wire or bar to stiffen the window from flapping.
It look like I did not need to do that.
There is a sticky sealer tape that is sewn through, wherever there is sewing this tape is designed to seal the needle holes.
They have proven to be very water resistant, last 2 outing it rained buckets and I stayed pretty dry.
Well I think that is most of it.
Enjoy!
Nitro450exp
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...art-1-a-47261/
This is part 2
Now the door handle.
It is in the stock location, but I cut it off about 1 1/4" from the push button.
This means you have lost the second bolt that holds it on.
I made a little L shaped tab, that is secured under the screw that holds the plunger in the handle.
This is on the back side of the handle on the front edge.
This allows me to tilt the front edge of the handle in and have this tab go behind the sheet metal of the outer skin.
Then just install the bolt on the remaining factory stud and the handle is done.
This is not difficult but it is very fiddly, you are dealing with tight spaces and the rods don't make the hadle very moveable.
Now bondo and paint.
I used very little bondo because I was somewhat patient and slow with my welding and grinding.
This keeps the heat and warping down, but there is bondo around the edge of the opening.
I used flexible sealer, body shop caulk, to seal the edge of the U channel and door frame.
This can just be painted over.
The bottom edges of my doors already had Line-X on them so I only painted inside and up to the edge of the Line-X.
Now the question, why not remove the dents ?
Well they are where the door beam is so no wany to do the body work without removing the beam.
The metal is so streached it will not shrink back.
They are from Tellico Lower # 2, If it remains closed by the Feds, no way to go back and get some more.
Chicks dig dents and scars !
Door panel was made from 1/8" masonite board, grill for the speaker is from the original panel.
I used vinyl and carpet from the local Automotive fabric supply.
I added some extra padding on the top of the door panel to act as an armrest.
The top panel is sewn onto the door panel and acts like a flap, it is held down with Velcro.
The window are BMW convertible top material, It is lined and has a waterfroof membrane, not cheap.
I think it was ~ $ 30 a Yard, window material is also convertible top clear plastic.
I also applied a ribbon called Binding around the edges of the window and openings in the top material.
The top material probably would not fray or unravel because of the membrane but the binding gives it I finished look.
I decided to make the plastic window the full size of the pattern, I aslo decided to put the black top material on both sides.
This makes the windows 3 layers thick and fairly stiff, they pass the 70 mile an hour test.
The window clips around the edge of the door frame using a plastic J clip.
This is also available through specialty automotive trim suppliers.
You just hold the window on the frame pull down while guiding the clip to grab the edge of the frame and then snap the 5 snaps along the bottom edge, this requires alot of stretching in cool weather, I use a vice grip as a handle.
The seperate lower window was in case I had to add a wire or bar to stiffen the window from flapping.
It look like I did not need to do that.
There is a sticky sealer tape that is sewn through, wherever there is sewing this tape is designed to seal the needle holes.
They have proven to be very water resistant, last 2 outing it rained buckets and I stayed pretty dry.
Well I think that is most of it.
Enjoy!
Nitro450exp
Last edited by nitro450exp; 05-12-2010 at 10:30 AM. Reason: spacing grammer link to part 1 added
05-11-2010 | 02:44 PM
#22
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 2
From: Here, no there, I don't know.
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hello all,
See like named threads part 1 & 2 above.
You asked so I did.
Enjoy!
Nitro450exp
See like named threads part 1 & 2 above.
You asked so I did.
Enjoy!
Nitro450exp
Last edited by nitro450exp; 05-11-2010 at 03:58 PM. Reason: spelling
05-11-2010 | 03:04 PM
#23
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
Real clean look! Looks like you have a lot of time in those. With the quality work I see you may be able to make a few sets and sell them.....especially with the custom vinyl windows.
05-11-2010 | 03:58 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 2
From: Here, no there, I don't know.
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There are 2 new threads with a similar name, parts 1 and 2, posted on this same board .
They were above this thread but have since moved down.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...art-1-a-47261/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...ts-pics-47262/
See links above
They were above this thread but have since moved down.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...art-1-a-47261/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/2-...ts-pics-47262/
See links above
Last edited by nitro450exp; 05-11-2010 at 04:00 PM. Reason: links added
