Help/judge my welds & fab work:
10-06-2011 | 09:55 PM
#31
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 710
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
NOTHING wrong with that arc welder.
im in an advanced welding class that has 12 of those and 12 miller arc machines from last year and everyone who has a miller wishes they had the lincoln. its easier and less finicky.. maybe louder but psshhh who cares?
as far as the welds you want the bead to end up about twice as wide as the rod you use. and the obvious keep a steady angle and distance from the piece.
and always practice untill you feel your good enough then move on to the car.
cuz grinding that off to re-weld if thats what you decide to do is gonna be a painn
im in an advanced welding class that has 12 of those and 12 miller arc machines from last year and everyone who has a miller wishes they had the lincoln. its easier and less finicky.. maybe louder but psshhh who cares?
as far as the welds you want the bead to end up about twice as wide as the rod you use. and the obvious keep a steady angle and distance from the piece.
and always practice untill you feel your good enough then move on to the car.
cuz grinding that off to re-weld if thats what you decide to do is gonna be a painn
10-06-2011 | 10:10 PM
#32
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 848
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by SeniorXJ
Are u sayin to try welding in DC??
In DC- the heat is generated at the tip of the electrode. DC+ the heat is generated at the weld surface. I personally prefer DC-
10-06-2011 | 10:35 PM
#33
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 790
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
10-06-2011 | 10:52 PM
#34
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You have a polarity switch on your welder (should be at the top right) that switches from DC+ to DC- to AC. The switch changes the polarity (direction) of the current.
Different rods work better on different settings. Your 6011 rods will work best on the AC setting but not bad on DC+.
Different rods work better on different settings. Your 6011 rods will work best on the AC setting but not bad on DC+.
10-06-2011 | 11:08 PM
#35
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You have a polarity switch on your welder (should be at the top right) that switches from DC+ to DC- to AC. The switch changes the polarity (direction) of the current.
Different rods work better on different settings. Your 6011 rods will work best on the AC setting but not bad on DC+.
Different rods work better on different settings. Your 6011 rods will work best on the AC setting but not bad on DC+.
Oh i thought the choices were just AC & DC. Which do the 7018 rods work best on??
Any added advice on my welding tomorrow??
10-06-2011 | 11:18 PM
#36
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The 7018s run better on the DC+ setting up to 300 amps, then on AC above that.
You have but to practice, young padiwan learner! May the DC+ force be with you!
Ok, sorry...that was shameless geekdom.
You have but to practice, young padiwan learner! May the DC+ force be with you!
Ok, sorry...that was shameless geekdom.
10-06-2011 | 11:22 PM
#37
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Are u tellin me to weld at 300 amps on DC+ with a 7018 rod on 1/4" inch steel brackets on my D30??? 300 amps for real???
10-06-2011 | 11:39 PM
#39
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by Bugsy
The 7018s run better on the DC+ setting up to 300 amps, then on AC above that.
You have but to practice, young padiwan learner! May the DC+ force be with you!
Ok, sorry...that was shameless geekdom.
You have but to practice, young padiwan learner! May the DC+ force be with you!
Ok, sorry...that was shameless geekdom.
I use 7018 1/8" and run it at 115-125 amps with DC-.
10-06-2011 | 11:46 PM
#40
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ok tomorrow the new panhard bar is going in from Ruff Stuff & i could use a few pointers. 1st is welding in the hex head bungs & how much space i should have before i start my welds so i took a few pics...
1st position is the bung all the way in...
2nd position is about an 1/8th inch out...
3rd position is a good 1/4" out...
SO, which position will work best without the risk of blow thru & screwing up the threads??? Oh & i was thinkin of using the 1/4" 7018 rods instead of the 6011s. Advice please???
1st position is the bung all the way in...
2nd position is about an 1/8th inch out...
3rd position is a good 1/4" out...
SO, which position will work best without the risk of blow thru & screwing up the threads??? Oh & i was thinkin of using the 1/4" 7018 rods instead of the 6011s. Advice please???
ANYBODY gonna throw me a bone on this question???????????
10-07-2011 | 12:17 AM
#41
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,889
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
When ever i weld with my lincoln 225 arc welder i always use 7018 rods and keep it around 105 to 115 amps on 1/4 thick steel to me it leaves a nice bead once the slag is chipped off and it penetrates he metal nicely and an auto darkening helmet cost me 53 dollars after tax for a harbor freight helmet and its been working fine for me
10-07-2011 | 01:16 AM
#42
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,059
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Model: Cherokee
Ok tomorrow the new panhard bar is going in from Ruff Stuff & i could use a few pointers. 1st is welding in the hex head bungs & how much space i should have before i start my welds so i took a few pics...
1st position is the bung all the way in...
2nd position is about an 1/8th inch out...
3rd position is a good 1/4" out...
SO, which position will work best without the risk of blow thru & screwing up the threads??? Oh & i was thinkin of using the 1/4" 7018 rods instead of the 6011s. Advice please???
1st position is the bung all the way in...
2nd position is about an 1/8th inch out...
3rd position is a good 1/4" out...
SO, which position will work best without the risk of blow thru & screwing up the threads??? Oh & i was thinkin of using the 1/4" 7018 rods instead of the 6011s. Advice please???
Ok now for the axle bracket, this is the position it will be in...
Im gonna try to concentrate some good solid welds on the inside of the bracket since it will be a flat surface to weld to...
Next this little fill in piece slides in & will be a ***** to weld so im thinkin of using up half a rod before moving to the axle & using a 1/8th 6011 rod...
NOW this is gonna be the hard part as its pretty much upside down & the most visible weld so any advice on thisone would be great...
This is all goin down tomorrow cause im gettin some real bad DW when i hit a hard bump in the road & im hopin this cures that 100%!!!!!!
Im gonna try to concentrate some good solid welds on the inside of the bracket since it will be a flat surface to weld to...
Next this little fill in piece slides in & will be a ***** to weld so im thinkin of using up half a rod before moving to the axle & using a 1/8th 6011 rod...
NOW this is gonna be the hard part as its pretty much upside down & the most visible weld so any advice on thisone would be great...
This is all goin down tomorrow cause im gettin some real bad DW when i hit a hard bump in the road & im hopin this cures that 100%!!!!!!
10-07-2011 | 07:25 AM
#43
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 790
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
10-07-2011 | 07:31 AM
#44
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 790
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From: VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thats an Old nice welder. Might be a lil finicky, but my old Ideal 150 is awesome. I also weld with a newer lincoln box like yours.
1. make sure your rods are dry. I have been known to bake my rods if I think they have gotten exposed.
2. swith to some 6013. A lil more versatile of a rod
3. 7018 isnt a bad choice for what you are doing as well. I find that it is easier to use 7018 if I dont want to do as much post weld cleanup
4. Prep your weld surface. Get yourself some nice flap wheels for your grinder.. and grind till you have shiney metal
5. Remove axle to do your truss. It is a lot easier to weld in the flat position instead of the overhead position.
6. Take a clas at your local comunity college or vo-tech school. You will learn more in one semester then we can teach you online. Plus they will teach you about rod and heat selection.
1. make sure your rods are dry. I have been known to bake my rods if I think they have gotten exposed.
2. swith to some 6013. A lil more versatile of a rod
3. 7018 isnt a bad choice for what you are doing as well. I find that it is easier to use 7018 if I dont want to do as much post weld cleanup
4. Prep your weld surface. Get yourself some nice flap wheels for your grinder.. and grind till you have shiney metal
5. Remove axle to do your truss. It is a lot easier to weld in the flat position instead of the overhead position.
6. Take a clas at your local comunity college or vo-tech school. You will learn more in one semester then we can teach you online. Plus they will teach you about rod and heat selection.
How can i "bake" my rods before using them?? Are u reffering to a toaster oven, & if so, at what temp, & for how long??